Bambikiller240

See quoted text for where studs and bolts go. My Bolts also had a 7 on the head.

Just went out and measured the studs on the original engine from Bambikiller. All of the studs protrude from the head approximately the same distance. Shortest ones protrude 1 & 1/16", Longest protrudes 1 & 4/16"

Ooo, So the only valid opinion in the world is yours, huh? B.S. !

I only know about 240Z's, so maybe things changed (like length of studs, and eliminating the bolts) for 260Z's &/or 280Z's. ? ? ? ?

Could be, Stephen. I may be the only one on the planet who is not a Bogey fan. Never saw it. Maybe he stole it from Confusious?

How do you mean "funky"? What year is your car?

I am partial to the normally aspirated L24 power. Wether you can trust an unknown PO's rebuild is another story. Confusious say, "You pays your money, and takes your chances."

That is the "normal", "stock" from Nissan situation on 240Z's. One can convert to all studs if they wish, but from the factory they came with studs for the lower row of manifold attachment, and with bolts for the top row of manifold attachment. 8mm X 1.25 bolts, studs, nuts. Length is the same for all studs.

Yes, Go easy on your car! Watch Redline on tach or keep buying new parts.

called escutcheon Still available from Nissan. Best price from www.midwestz.com ---------------------------- cheesy? bare unfinished metal with a screw showing is cheesy!:stupid:

Beauty vs Butt Ugly

This is not the sort of project you are likely to find any "how-to's" to assist you in completing. While this sort of project could be considered within the capability of a mechanically experienced owner, it is not (IMO) within the capability of a mechanically inexperienced owner. What needs to happen is that the engine, boost system, the entire engine management system (computer, wiring, and sensors) needs to be transplanted and incorporated into the existing wiring of the receiving car. Just my $.02

Try Danny's Datsuns or Eric at ZParts

There is paint available over the counter that is "close" to the right color, made by Duplicolor. But, if you are doing a real "restoration" you would want the "correct color" mixed to the Nissan Motors receipe. THAT is available through Classic Datsun Motorsports in Southern California. www.classicdatsun.com

The standard tach will indeed work with the Pertronix Ignitor ignition that the owner installed. Something else is causing it not to work. Iv've installed these Ignitor units in 3 240Z's including my own without any such problems. Looks like a very nice car.

www.zhome.com

It costs you nothing to lower it and see if that helps.

I'd guess the timing is too advanced. 13 BTDC seems a lot to me.

COmplete new locksets are virtually unavailable for S30's. A guy from Courtesy Nissan posted on our site and was selling the last few he had in stock last winter. Price was $215 plus shipping if I recall correctly. Several of us jumped on them like they were Jessica Simpson.

Depending on your states emissions requirements for older cars, you may "need" the smog pump. So before you toss this stuff out in the garbage you might want to confirm what the requirements are in VA BTW, many people say to toss all the smog stuff out because it probably doesn't work anyway, (NOT pik'n on you Ed, heard it many times in many places) well I just finished a complete rebuild of my 72 L24 enigne and have bee messing with the smog equipment. I replaced the vacuum hoses only and after blitzkraig tuned my carbs another friend offered to put the car through a smog systems check ( for free and not reported to the state) and the car passed with flying colors.

Can't help you with a step by step, but the pic of your new carbs/manifold is missing the smog equipment that it came with from the factory. I think I would just block off (plug up) anything that I didn't have a place to connect on the new manifold. One other thing, I doubt that you will be able to use the carb operating linkage that is currently on your car when using the new manifold. Lenght of the linkage is different between Flat-tops and Round tops. I'll try to get a pic of a Round Top set-up with all the "normal" equipment attached later to day for you.

I have used them to drain water from my car when I had a bad door weatherseal that allowed rain water to enter. (one is not always at home when this type of need may ocur so having a shop vac at home is not always something you can rely upon using. My floorpans have now been coated with POR15 inside and outside. I do not anticipate rust being an issue. I did seal the small holes at the bottom of the seatbelt retractor pockets because almost every retractor I have seen has been rusty. (I assume this is due to water splashing up into the pockets through those holes)

The "chome/plastic thingys" are not available separately. I don't believe that they ever were. However, the handle with two "chrome/plastic thingys" should still be available. They appear on eBay semi-frequently. I'd bet that Chloe at Midwest Z can get you one. Last time I priced them they were in the neighborhood of around $30 Good Luck

Does the fan now clear the radiator? It is possible that as the hood got bent down ita caused the raditor support to flex inward toward the fan. You'll want to make sure that if this happened it gets pulled back to it's original location. As for a bar behind the air dam, it won't hurt, but it will not help much either. Maybe for bumping a parking lot curb it would help some, but a 1/4" steel bar will bend fairly easily when pushed by a 2300 lb car at any speed, unless it is 1/4" by ?" angle iron That location is far too low to do much "protecting" of anything. Z's sit so low compared to most cars that the hood and higher parts of the front end get the majority of damage as the Z nose gets forced under the (in your case) rear end of the car that got hit. (witness how your hood, and mine got bent sharply downward) FWIW, stock 240Z bumpers don't protect much either.

Also, it depends greatly on how much money you have to throw at the problem. Rust repairs get expensive really fast unless you are skilled enough to do most of the work. Even then it can "cost" you lots of time and effort. Check the Rocker panels, and both frame rails as well.