Gav240z

Yes they are replaceable without removing the units. It's not an easy or fun job though. They are standard bulbs that plug into the back about 3Watt some say 4W but the ones I got were too big and as a result burnt themselves out and on one of my gauges actually caused the plastic green bit that covers and makes the gauges green to fall into the back of the gauge so now my AMP/FUEL gauge is not the right colour it's a clear colour I've bought another to replace it. So just be carefull and to be honest I'd just recommend replacing with some 3Watt ones again. You can get kits off ebay for white faces and different colours if that's what you want.

Mate I completely understand how you feel. Although now I'm working full time I don't have any spare time. When I have all the time in the world I have no money. Seems i can never win

I've owned 3 Zeds and never had a problem with it. 2 had the non fluted bonnet(read:hood). I've had mechanical and an electric fuel pump. I think the problem starts when people remove the heat shield and standard air box's.

1973 Datsun 240z My second car a 1975 260z 2+2 my third a AE92 Corolla my fourth my current 72 240z. My Fifth hopefully a 2 door 510 with an SR20

www.wazcars.com WA Z Car Register Try www.tradingpost.com.au www.ozdat.com You may find it easier to bring a car in from interstate. Good luck

unfortunately there is no free lunch.

I have a small pipe wrench but it doesn't seem to get any grip. I might have another crack at it tonight. I'm trying to get a hold of a mate at the moment if I can get a hold of him I'll take it around and show him tonight. Thanks for the reply all the same.

Hi Miles, I have noticed a similar scraping noise from my Z on the rear left. I thought it was my rear drums since I have only recently replaced them and I think they need adjusting. I'll be keen to see what the cause of your problem is since I think we have the same problem. It seems to be more obvious when slowing down or braking do you find the same?

Yeah it is a pain but replacing with normal screws makes it easier to steal your car. I guess if they really want to bypass the ignition it's not that hard. Sounds like your having one problem after the other Chickenwafer I agree with Sblake sounds like your 1 tooth out timing wise. Don't despare though I'm having just as much fun installing my tokico's at the moment :laugh:

Paint it in the colours on the box

Yeah I realised that after Mr C's post. I guess my friend was saying that he was changing the firing order however he didn't mean the actual order of how the cylinders fire but more in what position they fire. I guess it can be interpreted in a few ways main thing is the car runs fine and has plenty of advance. We set the distributor up with all mechanical advance no vacuum advance is neccessary with this configuration. Sorry for the confusion I guess that happens when I only take a quick look at the situation.

I have a unique problem with the upper strut gland nut. The ones currently in the car well at least the front right hand side are circular and not a octagon shape like it should be. This means I can't get a grip on it with a pipe wrench or the snap on tool above as they are designed for the normal octagon shape nut. One thing I noted about the circular one was that it has two holes directly opposite each other like you could insert something into them and turn it out that way. I guess my options with my limited tools are to take it to a suspension shop or ask a friend who might have the tool. The Tokico's I got from someone here in Australia came with the octagon shaped nuts so I'll probably put those on instead it's just getting them off to begin with. PS: Anyone know where to get 270 + LB springs in Australia to suit a Z? Help? I also posted in this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=138914#post138914 seeing as they are both talking about the same sort of thing.

I have a unique problem with the upper strut gland nut. The ones currently in the car well at least the front right hand side are circular and not a octagon shape like it should be. This means I can't get a grip on it with a pipe wrench or the snap on tool above as they are designed for the normal octagon shape nut. One thing I noted about the circular one was that it has two holes directly opposite each other like you could insert something into them and turn it out that way. I guess my options with my limited tools are to take it to a suspension shop or ask a friend who might have the tool. The Tokico's I got from someone here in Australia came with the octagon shaped nuts so I'll probably put those on instead it's just getting them off to begin with. PS: Anyone know where to get 270 + LB springs in Australia to suit a Z? Help? :nervous:

Yes that would be correct since I'm fairly certain my oil pump has been moved around and this set up allows for more advance.

Ok here is my firing order dead set no jokes I double checked and here it is. The firing order is 2-4-1-5-3-6 going by Carl's original example. See image I attached:

This one belongs in the "if there is a better looking Z car show me" thread! LMAO

I think you might be right. For some reason i thought the distributor rotor button turned clockwise not anti-clock wise. I'm sure that I've heard a friend of mine tell me he's changed his firing order and at the time I asked him how is it possible? I don't recall exactly what he said at the time but I'll definately have to chase it up with him. I know that after the Australian Z Nationals here when my distributor failed on me and I almost had to leave my Z halfway to sydney. I got back to Melbourne using a mates distributor since he trailered his Z up. When I got back I pulled another distributor and marked the firing order according to that Z's setup since my mate had set that one up with the different firing order I basically transferred the set up across. However from the look of it the order was no different. It's definately something I have to chase up with him. It's entirely possible I mis-interpreted what he said. :stupid:

probably i only took a quick look. I'll take a proper look soon but im fairly ertain its possible to run a different firing order.

I'm pretty sure I just checked and mine is running using 6-3-5-1-4-2 configuration.

Depending on your configuration your firing order doesn't have to be the same as stock. My Z has about 36 degree's of advance and does not use standard timing configuration. It is very possible someone did something similar with your Z I would stick with the firing order that was working if I was you.

Sounds like a problem with the gear box gate. I had a friend with a similar problem couldn't get his Z out of first gear being a mechanic of course he fixed it quite easily but I didn't get to see what the exact problem was I just remember him saying it was a problem with the gearbox gate. If she won't go into reverse try 2nd gear then reverse see if that helps. Can you get it into reverse with the engine off?