kmack

I do searches myself on old posts, as well as old threads I have started. Some of the threads I've started were questions, and it can sometimes take me awhile to get around to doing some of the stuff that other people recomend. So I need to be able to search out the answers that were postsed for me.

Like Daniel said, I would check out the "spray bar" on top of the cam. (that's the oil tube he's talking about) It has little holes above each cam lobe and they can get glogged over time. The bar also splits at the "boxes" where it mounts to the cam towers. A little JBWeld fixes that nicely. As for pulling the engine, I have gotten the engine and tranny out (in one piece) in about 50 minutes by myself. Figure it'll take 1-2 hours. There are not many wires to disconnect and the biggest thing to remove (besides the engine itself) is the hood. If you still have the stock exhaust manifold, then the down pipe going to the muffler disconnects at a flange on the bottom of the manifold. There should be 3 nuts on studs coming off the manifold itself. I'd soak these real good for quite awhile before attempting to remove them. I broke one before and had to drill and re-tap it. Everything else should be straight forward. Good luck.

If you want disc brakes on the rear, then you need to look at getting the rear set-up from a 280ZX. (OMG! I said the forbidden word! :tapemouth ) Try doing a search on this site. I'm not sure if there is a write up here or not. I'm pretty sure there is one at www.zhome.com There are also very good write ups around the net, you just have to do a little searching. This might be a little involved as I believe you also have to swap part of the half shaftes because of the different stub axles from the 280ZX. Good luck on the project, though.

"If you don't get hurt, then you weren't really working."

If it's just the u-joint that is bad, just take it to a local drive-shaft place and they can replace the u-joints. Probably for less than $40. If your drive shaft itself is breaking apart (the tube body is coming apart) then you are doing some serious damage to your car! I've seen lots of u-joints fail, but I've never seen an actual drive-shaft come apart, even in a research facility where that was the goal.

Hybernation? Winter Storage? What the hell does that mean? Doesn't it stay nice all year round like here in Texas? Oops, sorry. What was I thinking? Make sure you also change the oil before putting it up in storage. There are acids and such left in old oil that can attack the engine and it's internals. Ask anybody storing motorcycles and they'll tell you the same thing. And since you'll be in a heated warehouse, I'd leave the battery in the car, but connect it to a Battery Tender. That way you won't have to worry about where to store the battery. And you'll know it has a charge at all times.

I couldn't resist this one!!!! 2liters.bmp

I also have a demented friend that likes to collect wasps nest. He used the biggest one to scare the crap out of me one day. We found the biggest one one day at work up on the side of the building. It measured 10" across the longest part! After we killed the 20 or so wasps on it, he spent the about 15 minutes picking all the dead wasps off the ground. Then he took it home and glued them all back on the nest. He kept it on top of his tool box at work and loved to put it behind corners and such. I always hated when he did that...

I don't worry too much about spiders, but wasps are another story.... When I first got my '71, it had been sitting in some guys backyard for at least 5 yrs. Now for those that don't know, here in Texas, wasps will build a nest anywhere that has protection from the rain and hasn't moved in a few days. Well, I'm laying underneath my car pulling the rear bumper off using a wrench and a hammer (to bang on the wrench) one day behind a friends barn. My goal was getting the gas tank out. After about half an hour banging on the rear bumper, it finally comes off. Now for the tank. So I'm under the car, gas tank laying on my chest. As soon as I lower the passenger side just enough to clear the lower body section, I notice 2 wasps nest about 4" in diameter! Each one had 8 angry looking wasps just sitting there staring at me! Now I'm prone to freeze in fear at the mere sight of a wasp buzzing around my head. This was absolulye terrifying. It took me over five minutes to slowly slide my way out from under the car. To this day, I will always shine a flash light up under fenders, and under any car that has been sitting for awhile before my body goes underneath it. I still get chills recounting that story...

As I understand it, the only piece that is different is the one going from the bell-crank on the firewall to the intake balance tube. One is longer than the other. Not sure which one though. But this assumes that you're switching out the '73 balance tube with one from a 70-72 model. If all you're doing is using the existing balance tube, but plugging up all the unneccessary ports, then a new linkage is not needed.

First check out the carbs to make sure they are set to pre-tune settings. Since they have been replaced, we'll assume that they have been apart and/or rebuilt somewhat. In that case, they need to be set at a pre-tune setting so the car will start, and then they can be properly tuned. Do a search on carbs here in the forums and you'll come up with a wealth of info. Also check out a Factory Service Manual or Haynes manual for additional info. That will get the carbs in the ball park. If the engine ran but then sort of quit, then you can assume a few things there. One is your getting some fuel, but are you getting enough. What kind of operational condition is the fuel pump in? Another thing is the carbs may be close but not close enough. Do you know if the PO was able to get the choke operational during these times? These engine can be rather cold-blooded when first started and the choke helps a lot. It sounds like most of the general electrical stuff has been taken care of so I wouldn't worry too much about those items. But I would focus on the fuel delivery system and the carbs. Check out articles on www.zhome.com and maybe do a search on SU carbs out on the net. There are quite a few places that give good descriptions on tear-down and rebuild procedures for these carbs. Good luck on getting your car started. BTW, definitely get a little oil into the cylinders and if you might even pull the valve cover and pour a little oil on the cam. It couldn't hurt...

:D :D I think I just found my new job! SO how much is it to ship a Z to Guam?

I've been a memeber of the email list (from this site, great job on that, too Mike, btw) for about 3 years. When Mike first mentioned the beginnings of this site, I started to keep an eye on it from time to time. Although i didn't officially join for sometime after that. But I've been here for almost 2 years now and wouldn't go anywhere else. :classic:

I have seen them placed under the dash in the kick panel area in front of the doors. Cructhfield sells a kick panel mount that will accept a 6" speaker (I believe) and mounts into the Z nicely. I've seen this on a car at the Convention and it sounded pretty good. The speakers actually mount at an angle so they end being projected more into the interior compartment instead of just at the trans, tunnel. Might be something to think about since you don't want to make holes in your doors. (My doors already have the holes there, so I might as well use them.)

Well here is the latest and probably last update on the camber issue..... I layed out the control arms on the floor and transferred them with a marker. Then I measured from the center of the crossmember bolt-line to both the radius arm mounting holes, and the ball-joint mounting holes. All dimensions on both pieces came within 1/8". So much for my odd-ball control arm theory. I have measured the strut towers (cross-pattern) and they both come out to be the same dimensions there. So they are straight. The only thing I haven't done is measure their vertical angles, but the cross-pattern measuring should have taken care of that. I went ahead and mounted the camber bushings and installed everything and I'll deal with any adjustment limitations later on. I'm tired of messing with this and I'm missing being able to drive my car.

If they are hidden in bushes, then casually pull to the side of the road, walk up to the bush and then relieve your self. Or just run the things over. I can't image that they'd be manned. Just a few dilinquent thoughts roaming through my childish mind. I'll grow up now...

Ed, I used white lithium grease on mine. So far so good, just make sure you put the wiper arm boots back on to help keep moisture out of the pivot area (the whole reason they go bad in the first place is because the boots rot). Once cleaned up, your wipers will fly across the windshield with ease.... :classic:

Well, I finally got around to pulling the passenger side control off tonight (after pulling the driver's side out last Thursday). Here's what I found out: When measuring the overall length of the control arms, the drivers side is about 1/4" shorter than the passenger side. For what reason I don't know. There are no signs of either piece having any damage at all. So my only explanation is that either the factory goofed or at some point one was changed and there is apparently different lengths running around between models. Anybody care to help shed some light on this? FWIW, the drivers side (measured across the top from end to end) is 13-1/2", pass. side is 13-3/4".

HOROSCOPES FOR YOUR JOB POSITION 1) MARKETING: You are ambitious yet stupid. You chose a marketing degree to avoid having to study in college, concentrating instead on drinking and socializing which is pretty much what your job responsibilities are now. Least compatible with Sales. 2) SALES: Laziest of all signs, often referred to as "marketing without a degree." You are also self-centered and paranoid. Unless someone calls you and begs you to take their money, you like to avoid contact with customers so you can "concentrate on the big picture." You seek admiration for your golf game throughout your life. 3) TECHNOLOGY: Unable to control anything in your personal life, you are instead content to completely control everything that happens at your workplace. Often even YOU don't understand what you are saying but who the heck can tell. It is written that Geeks shall inherit the Earth. 4) ENGINEERING: One of only two signs that actually studied in school. It is said that ninety percent of all Personal Ads are placed by engineers. You can be happy with yourself; your office is full of all the latest "ergodynamic" gadgets. However, we all know what is really causing your "carpal tunnel syndrome." 5) ACCOUNTING: The only other sign that studied in school. You are mostly immune from office politics. You are the most feared person in the organization; combined with your extreme organizational traits, the majority of rumors concerning you say that you are completely insane. Oh, and usually the first to be incarcerated. 6) HUMAN RESOURCES: Ironically, given your access to confidential information, you tend to be the biggest gossip within the organization. Possibly the only other person that does less work than marketing, you are unable to return any calls today because you have to get a haircut, have lunch AND then mail a letter. 7) MANAGEMENT/MIDDLE MANAGEMENT: Catty, cut-throat, yet completely spineless, you are destined to remain at your current job for the rest of your life. Unable to make a single decision you tend to measure your worth by the number of meetings you can schedule for yourself. Best suited to marry other "Middle Managers" as everyone in you social circle is a "Middle Manager." 8) SENIOR MANAGEMENT: See above - Same sign, different title. 9) CUSTOMER SERVICE: Bright, cheery, positive, you are a fifty-cent cab ride from taking your own life. As children very few of you asked your parents for a little cubicle for your room and a headset so you could pretend to play "Customer Service." Continually passed over for promotions, your best bet is to sleep with your manager. 10) CONSULTANT: Lacking any specific knowledge, you use acronyms to avoid revealing your utter lack of experience. You have convinced yourself that your "skills" are in demand, and that you could get a higher paying job with any other organization in a heartbeat. You will spend an eternity contemplating these career opportunities without ever taking direct action. 11) RECRUITER, "HEADHUNTER": As a "person" that profits from the success of others, you are disdained by most people who actually work for a living. Paid on commission and susceptible to alcoholism, your ulcers and frequent heart attacks correspond directly with fluctuations in the stock market. 12) PARTNER, PRESIDENT, CEO: You are brilliant or lucky. Your inability to figure out complex systems such as the fax machine suggests the latter.

Well, thanks to 2many I have begun to install a set of adjustable camber bushings. I have checked the strut tubes, control arms, and tension rods and all are straight. I haven't checked the strut towers themselves, but will after this weekend. Let me tell you, getting those old stock bushings out of the control arms w/o a press is a real b*tch! :tapemouth That's the reason I've only done one so far.... I'll keep everyone posted on any further findings....

I used a brand called "Nason", made by DuPont. I was told it's a step or two down from their top-o-the-line brand. I got it in an acrylic-urethane, single stage paint. It flowed on nicely and I had few problems. So far it still looks great, but it's only 3 months old. As for deciding between a single stage paint or 2 stage paint (base coat-clear coat), think of it this way: If you're going to use a metallic color, you must use a 2 stage. Metallics by themselves just won't hold a shine and they're not that durable. If you're going to use a solid color, you can use only a single stage paint. In a base coat-clear coat, the base is a pigmented paint. The clear is a pigmentless paint. If using a solid color, why put 2 layers of paint on when you only need one (aside from the normal covering layers)? I have seen single stage paint jobs in acrylic or enamels that are pushing 10 yrs old and look like a base coat-clear coat system. I went with an acrylic urethane for the durability. And I went for a single stage system because I could not afford to put 2 layers of paint on my car when I didn't really need it.

Marty, I made the 180 degree bend by using a piece of tubing. Stainless steel specifically. Get a piece of tubing about 6-8" long. I've heard not to use copper because the fuel will degrade it over time. Not sure whether it's true. Once you have the tubing, use a bender to make a "U" out of it. Then slide it in the hose. You could just cut the hose into 2 pcs and use the tubing alone for the bend (instead of sliding it inside the hose) but that requires more hose clamps. I didn't have a tubing bender when I did mine so I used my bench vise. It turned out a little crude looking, but it worked and you'll never see again, so who cares.

As I have done this before (and specifically w/ 280 seats in a 240) they will switch easily from left to right.