SteveJ

********Wild Speculation Alert************ I have no idea of the duty cycle of the fuel injection system for the Z car. However, could this be a case of the injectors firing so often combined with the current draw of the ignition system? If you didn't upgrade the alternator with the engine, it could be the case. Also, what is the normal voltage at the battery at idle? Your voltage regulator might not be adjusted properly.

I think there are a few counties in remote parts of California that don't require smog testing. Of course, you could just move out of state, period.

For easier location of parts and better information on repairs, I suggest that you look into getting a factory service manual. You can purchase it electronically from Courtesy Nissan at http://www.courtesyparts.com/secondtier_s30.html. Good luck.

It could be worse. A loose battery started an electrical fire in my Z once. Fortunately I had my fire extinguisher handy.

No, you're not missing anything. Some people go with sequential injection when they go to a system like a MegaSquirt.

Yes, batch fired means that they are fired all at the same time. No, the 280Z does not use sequential firing.

Go to this site, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm. Among items of interest are the Fuel Injection Bible and EFI Overview.

Yikes! It sounds like there was a hack job if you ever had running lights. So, how skilled are you at tracing wires?

What? Didn't you like the answers you got on the Zcar.com website?

Check/clean your electrical connections, especially the one on the steering wheel. That's a lot cheaper/easier than replacing the horn relay.

Like I said before, that fuse will glow bright orange without blowing. It was strange since I was using the rated fuse. The meltdown looks ugly, doesn't it?

Go to this page http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html and look at the "Z problems". The fusebox is a common site for corrosion. I had one fuse box melt down on me. My experience was this: I would notice the lights being out. I checked the fuse visually, and it looked fine. I pulled it and checked continuity which failed. I replaced the fuse a couple of more times. One time while the lights were still working, I lifted the cover to see the fuse glowing orange, not the best thing to see in your fusebox. Eventually, the fuse heated up enough to melt the plastic. I replaced the fusebox and haven't had a problem since. If you want to get fancy, you can get an updated fuse box from MSA for $200. It looks sweet.

Did you call MSA and ask them about it?

Here is a link where you can find wiring diagrams. The 75 isn't available, but the 76 would probably work for you. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

And as I recall from the Zcar.com website, you would tighten bolts as tight as you could get them instead of using the torque specs listed in the FSM.

Bubbles, enough money was put into your car already. Get a FSM and learn about doing those simple jobs yourself. By the way, I hope you're not using RTV on the oil drainplug.

Conventional wisdom suggests that one should replace the regulator and alternator at the same time. I replaced my voltage regulator years ago without any ill effects on my alternator, but I may have just been lucky.

I must have committed an abomination. I changed out my MC & brake booster recently. I did not bench bleed the MC. Instead, I bled the MC and proceeded to bleed at the wheels. After bleeding at the wheels, I bled the MC again, just to make sure. After all, brake fluid is cheap. I ended up with a normal feel to my brakes.