SteveJ

Truth be told, there wasn't much in common between the 83 280ZX and the 70-78 Z cars except the powertrain. Given that your car also has had the powertrain swapped, you might find more useful information at http://www.hybridz.org.

Bubbles, I'm sure you could be a little more vague if you tried. As you can tell, "resistor thingy" isn't a very good description of the component. It could be a capacitor or a diode that was connected to your alternator. If you give a good description (or better yet, post a picture), maybe we could say for sure what it is. Now, for your other problems, if you are running an internally regulated alternator on a 77 or older, you need to jumper out the voltage regulator. An overvoltage situation can give you a lot of headaches.

Ensure your fusible links are in good condition, and test your voltage regulator to ensure it is within specs. The testing procedures for voltage regulators can be found in the factory service manual or in the Haynes manual.

Well, you're not completely wrong. Most 280Zs came with externally regulated alternators. The change came in 78. If Jay got an internally regulated alternator by mistake, my guess is that the voltage would read too high (personal experience).

0w-20 is a multiweight oil. It would not necessarily act like 20 weight oil all of the time. I'm not sure how a thicker oil would help you when it gets colder. It sounds counter-intuitive to me.

Well, you could order it from MSA. I also found 20 weight oil at Ace Hardware. I think it was sold under the 3 in 1 brand.

Actually with the reading at 11 volts, you're draining the battery. It wouldn't surprise me for you to have a dead regulator, especially since you say you've had charging problems. I can't recall where the regulator was relocated for the 280Z, but I'm pretty sure it's not where the regulator is in a 240Z. It might be located near the battery. (The FSM is your friend in cases like this.) I do know that the 75 has a round plug for the regulator.

Did you touch your voltage regulator? It could be out of adjustment or just plain bad. If your battery goes dead, I would lean toward a bad regulator. The FSM & Haynes manual have instructions on adjusting the regulator.

Go to this page http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html and look at the "Z problems". The fusebox is a common site for corrosion. I had one fuse box melt down on me. My experience was this: I would notice the lights being out. I checked the fuse visually, and it looked fine. I pulled it and checked continuity which failed. I replaced the fuse a couple of more times. One time while the lights were still working, I lifted the cover to see the fuse glowing orange, not the best thing to see in your fusebox. Eventually, the fuse heated up enough to melt the plastic. I replaced the fusebox and haven't had a problem since.

I'm just trying to figure out why a chemistry teacher would give you extra credit for a physics problem.

That's a VERY open-ended question. How much money do you want to spend?

Try traderonline and ebay to do some pricing research.

The gauge in our 240Zs is an AMP gauge(current). Think about current like the flow of water. As the engine turns the alternator faster, the alternator is able to pump out more current. That's why the gauge goes to the plus side. As it returns to idle, the alternator isn't pumping out as much current. As long as you're not on the negative side, you're in good shape.

Okay, here's a new opinion. Just upgrade the headlight circuit to use relays. Try that with some new regular headlights. It will work great and be cheaper.

I'm thinking that you're going off half-cocked. You haven't looked at the hood. You haven't talked to MSA. Have you seen the invoice to verify what was ordered? Why does the shop think you have a used hood? Does MSA even deal in used parts? I know some parts are rebuilt/refurbished, but I don't recall ever seeing a section for ordering used parts.

Saro, Thanks for giving us the update. Be sure to check the voltage at the battery with the car running. You'll want to make sure the voltage regulator is adjusted properly. By the way, Harbor Freight has the voltage meters on sale for $3.99. I was there yesterday. The closest one to you is probably in Pasadena.

Michael, I hope the second opinion is correct. I definitely still want the parts I requested. Steve

I sent you a private message about some of the parts.

Saro, can you list the fuses you replaced? That could give us a clue. Also, what aftermarket equipment has been installed on the car?

Okay, so I have checked in the FSM. It says that the alternator is good if the voltage is 12.5 volts or more at 1100 RPM.

HOLD THE PHONE! You ADDED fuses? Fuses are devices designed to protect electrical devices on a circuit. So, did you add circuits and electrical devices, did you split existing circuits, or did you have some circuits that didn't have fuses in them? If you added electrical devices (new amplifier/stereo, car alarm, cappucino machine, etc.), you could be drawing more current than the stock alternator can supply. As for a multimeter, Harbor Freight frequently has them on sale for $3.99. I picked up one to throw in my trunk. Do you have a factory service manual or at least a Haynes manual? It is easy to check the alternator and the regulator without going to a mechanic as long as you follow the directions and have a multimeter. It took me all of 5 minutes to diagnose a bad voltage regulator in my Z. I'm not a big fan of "pulling off the battery cable while the car is running." It does not differentiate between a bad alternator and a mis-adjusted voltage regulator.

As I get older, my memory grows weaker. The voltage should probably be closer to 14 volts at idle without the headlights on. I'll edit my post if I can remember to look up the numbers when I get home. Also, Saro, don't forget to check the tension on your alternator belt. If it stretches, that can affect the alternator's ability to provide power.

Why did you have to change your fuses? Why do you think that could be a contributing factor? Having asked those questions, it's time to do a proper diagnosis. Use a voltage meter to read the voltage at the battery with the car running. It should be somewhere around 14.5. (I don't have my FSM handy.) Next, use the FSM or Haynes manual to diagnose the voltage regulator. Let us know what you find out.

Yes, you still need a coil when using the Crane XR-700. I installed my Crane EI about 7 or 8 years ago, and I love it. However, you can shop around and find a Pertronix set-up for your Z that will cost less than the Crane set-up. The Pertronix part number is 1761. Victoria British offers the Pertronix for $89.95. Another site (http://www.carshopinc.com/index.php/cPath/21_24_22) offers it for $63.95. Here's a search to help you find vendors: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Pertronix+ignitor+1761