SteveJ

I've tried using it. I don't think I did a good job of applying it. I have a circuitwriter pen. I'm going to try that on my 260Z where the grid was pulled off in removing the tint.

I agree with Andrew. Look for the cables. Sometimes they will come off the clips. If you need new ones, try Zcar Source. They aren't cheap, but I've been happy with the quality of used parts I've received. They also are prompt on shipping.

In post #3... I think that will put you in the ball park.

Have you tried the parts catalog?

According to the parts catalog, the sending unit changed around Sept 74.

Go to XenonS130 and download the FSM. The wiring diagram will have your answer.

Typically the fuel pump has two voltage sources. When you put the key in start, it kicks in a relay that closes the contact for the fuel pump to have voltage. When the key is in run, there is a relay uses an oil pressure switch to signal that the engine is running. I can't recall where the 280Z gets its signal from during the run. If you search on this site, I think you'll find a color wiring diagram that you can use to determine the proper way for the fuel pump to get powered. By the way, where in Georgia are you?

Here are the valve cover hex heads in chrome: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-280Z-510-L16-L28-Chrome-Valve-Cover-Bolts-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255fea4f04QQitemZ160522981124QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Please be aware that there are two flashers in your car. One is for the hazard lights, and the other is for the turn signals. I purchased the Bussmann 232 flashers for my cars.

Hey, I'm patient. Merry Christmas.

For the heavier items like transmissions, you might be able to ship via Greyhound. I've read many posts over at Zcar.com suggesting that.

I knew Dave was addressing it to Jerry, but I also know in my head that it was the missing link, considering I had replaced my own switch a few months ago. I studied that connector some since it looked unique to me, but it didn't come to mind when Jerry originally posted his problem.

I'm sure it was. I didn't even think of it the first time because I just connected it when I changed out my switch. I didn't even think twice about it. I believe Del at Vintage Connections even sells replacements for them.

Are you SURE you didn't install the distributor 180 degrees out?

There is also an ad over at Zcar.com. Considering how many of these cars are missing rear windows or the entire hatch, I'm thinking there is a good bit of rust waiting to be discovered.

I think I need to clarify. I think it might help to approach the slave cylinder from engine compartment instead of underneath. I was probably also handicapped by using too short of a piece of tubing from the oil can to the bleed screw.

Are all of the wires on the new switch connected to something now? Are there the same number of wires on your old switch?

Okay, I tried it, working from under the car. It didn't work well for me. I suggest that if you try it, go at it from the top. I'm still not sure it will work that well, either. Also, make sure you have a long enough tube from the oil can to the bleed screw.

If it's the proper switch, you should have a 6 wire connector and maybe a couple of other wires. The connector only goes on one way. The other wires should be the same colors as the wires they go to. Is there something I'm missing here? If so, post pictures.

Today, I removed the window tint from the driver and passenger windows in the 260Z. I found a video on YouTube that showed how to use a steamer to get the tint off. I went to Wal-Mart to get a steamer (I had the wife's blessing since she wanted a garment steamer.) and got rid of the old, almost-opaque tint. I'm going to take care of the rear hatch next, since I can't see a darn thing out the back window. I'm also attacking a leaking clutch master cylinder. I love having some time off.

It never hurts to quote the point you are addressing. That way it's almost impossible for someone to edit what they said that you're responding, too. Of course, quotes CAN be manipulated.

You can buy replacement connectors from Vintage Connections. I have purchased a lot from Del. He is a good man to buy from. Many others here will agree. If you carefully work the old terminal out of the connector, many times you can re-use it in the new connector.

kats, There are companies in the US that remanufacture enough of the parts that you can essentially build a "new" 60s muscle car. I'm pretty sure Year One did that with a Camaro. My wife's uncle completed a mid-60s GTO not too long ago, too. Parts are certainly plentiful.

I finally took some pictures of the taillights. I swapped the incandescent bulbs from the right to the left to reduce the influence of any exhaust soot affecting the perception of the lights. In my opinion, the 1157 incandescent bulbs are SLIGHTLY brighter. However, I have some LED 1157 equivalents with more LEDs. They do require taking apart the taillight to install since the LED bulb is larger than the opening for the socket. The 67 LED equivalent does seem to be a little brighter, though. Considering the drop in current flow through the circuit, I'm still VERY happy with the results.

Jamie, the White/Red wire going to the fusebox is a good source for your positive side. It is attached to the fusebox with a ring lug, so you might be able to get another ring lug on the stud. From the negative side, go to ground. On the shunt across the old ammeter connnections, use shielded terminals, and match the gauge of the wire, so you don't create a "fusible link". Let me know if you need a hand. I might be able to come over.