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About aldren260

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    Registered User


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    WA state
  1. its a 4 spd its an early 260 4/74 but i believe the tranny is from a diff car. ill take more pics of it later btw how can i tell wich trans model i have?
  2. ok another newb question ive looked on the forum and on other websites. my car is a 74 260z but the block says l28 with n47 head. i need a new clutch going for the oem ones http://www.blackdragonauto.com/features/z/ZCLK.htm should i order the 260z or 280z? any help would be much appreciated thanks again
  3. sweet another NW member im in lakewood my self pretty close to a7dz
  4. hmm i failed to mention that i tried bleeding my brake and messed with those "cylinder" and i think i messed up the bleeding process coz now my brakes wont work maybe i gotta re check the cylinders abd bleed em the right way, had to bleed the brakes coz i swapped my shocks and had to disconnect the brakes
  5. thanks alotguys for the input ill post updates when i start working on it tomorrow
  6. (260z car 280z engine with 4spd) ok my transmission has been acting weird lately, the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor, when i shift to reverse it grinds loud and wont get into gear unless i pull it down hard, that was 2 days ago and this morning i took it for a drive and i noticed its now alot harder to put the car into any gears i literally force them into shifting. drove it around for 40 mins and still no change, then parked the car and tonight i started the car to go to walgreens and the trans will not shift into the gears at all. i notced that when i turn the engine off the gears shift smoothly but when its back on it wont shift at all...any help would be much appreciated. i did some search and only help i got is maybe its the syncros or change the trans oil.
  7. noob question since we are on this topic, when installing back the full strut assembly back to the car, shud i bolt the three nut ontop of the wheel wells first or start from the bottom first
  8. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQNissanQQ260ZQQTokicoQQShock_Absorber_and_Strut_AssemblyQQ19741975QQT38HB3188.html?apwcid=P1135867996W43b3f85c7ab9e&gan=1&apwidc4rLnAB is this an actual strut assembly (shock housing and perch) minus the shocks/springs or is this just the tokico blue shocks.
  9. You should be ok. Just watch the tire width and you should be ok. It'll be close on the inside. I had the rims on my car before the coilovers and no problems. I run a 205/50 and I know my friend was running a 225/50 Falken Azenis RT615. In the front, the tire rubbed the strut and the rear was ok. I think a more narrow 225 might be ok and a 215 would be safer. I don't know what he is running on the front now, it's spitz17 on this site. One thing to note, I think the 16x7 are regular RB's and have a different face. The 16x8 are the RB-R and are more concave

  10. any one from PNW that can re wire up my 260z, purchased it from owner that swapped a 280z carbd motor in it and installed after market speakers. im new to the Z scene and clueless when it comes to wiring. 90% of the exterior lights work: head lights, turn signals, taillights (except the R brake light). dash lights and dome lights also in working order im located in tacoma problems: messy wiring set up spliced cut wires all over heater not working (possible wiring issue?) only blows cold air right brake light wont turn on when brakes are applied (not a bulb issue) only gauge that works on the dash board are the fuel/volt gauge i need some professional help or some one that could fix the issues for me, ill pay for your time and labor. or ill be forced to sell the Z and pick up a new ride thanks
  11. im thinking of getting the same wheel set up as you, i just ordered the tokico shocks with eibach springs, with the same wheel set up you think id be rubbing or should i go with 16x7 +4

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