SteveJ

I think if you removed the relay, you only lose the intermittent function, and Park may be affected. I haven't tested to confirm. While it shows 12VDC+ going through the relay, that diagram lies!

I was wondering when someone was going to mention that stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTQ67X9

If you got only 8 ounces of fluid from the differential, that was not overfilled. That was underfilled. Underfilling the differential can cause overheating, damaging bearings and gears. You should use GL-5 gear oil to refill. You did not say which differential you have, but here are the capacities from the service manual GI section. The 1.3 and 1.0 are in liters (or litres for our UK & Canadian friends).

This may or may not help you. I added the wire colors to the diagram. In OFF, YB is connected to LY from terminal 3. LY from terminal 3 is always connected to the M terminal on the Wiper Relay as part of the Park circuit. In INT, YG is grounded, and YB is connected to LY from terminal 3 (to Park after the wipe). In LOW, YG is grounded, and YB is grounded. In HIGH, YG is grounded, and LY for the H connection on the wiper motor is grounded.

In a nutshell, the switch grounds leads from the relay. I'm not sure what diagram you're looking at, so it's difficult to provide clarification. Considering the stock switch only has 4 detents (Off, intermittent, low, high), I'm not sure how you're going to modify the switch to get the variable intermittent function from the VAG relay.

Try https://www.pure-gas.org/

Did you lubricate the wiper linkage? I did that on my 260Z a long time ago, and I found the performance adequate for a heavy rain when I was driving up to ZCON in 2020.

Dang, you must be running pretty good compression. You could try this website: https://www.sunocoracefuels.com/fuel-finder There's a station near me that has a pump with 110 for "off-road use only". It's nice living not too far from a couple of tracks.

Did you have the parking brake engaged? They can stick. Been there. Done that. Got the t-shirt. I had to push the car pretty good to break the brakes loose.

Look at this thread: Keep the Nissan relay. I think I have it decoded on how to use a later Nissan relay, but I haven't purchased the relay to verify, yet.

Stock motor with stock compression - go with 87 or choose 91 if you like to burn money for no gain. If you have higher compression, go with 91.

It doesn't show up in a Google search for the site. Your thread does, though.

From watching the electricians pull wires, they always use plenty of tape to make sure everything is smooth. Of course, electricians fishing tape might help with that endeavor, too.

Was there fuel in the fuel filter in the engine bay? I assume you have new hoses between the gas tank and the fuel lines and between the fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel rail, and carburetors. You could try blowing compressed air back to the tank from the fuel filter. If you don't hear air coming through, the fuel line could be clogged.

I left you a voicemail.

I was at Road Atlanta watching the vintage racing action. After the day was done, it's time to drive home. I put the transmission in 3rd gear to go down the big hill, and it's letting out a whine that I had never heard before. As I pulled up behind other traffic, I put the car in 1st, there was a really bad noise, and the car lurched. I tried 2nd. The transmission whined a painful whine, and 3rd was about the same. I decided to see if I could make it closer to home to reduce the amount of time getting towed. I could get the car moving in 2nd and quickly shifted through 3rd and on to 4th. I cruised home and only had to come to a full stop a couple of times. The 260Z will be parked for a little while. Fortunately, I have a line on a 5 speed. It's not a great situation, but I did make it home safe.

I saw this, and it reminded me of quite a few threads here: https://www.hagerty.com/media/advice/piston-slap/piston-slap-too-much-talk-just-for-vapor-lock

As the float rises, the resistance drops. If you are sure the sending unit is registering low, you could bend the arm down on the sending unit. I would go slow on that, though.

Make sure the fuel level in the tank isn't too high. How to test: Turn the key to ON. Use a piece of wire to short to the terminals at the sending unit while someone watches the gauge. The gauge should go up. Remove the wire after testing, keeping in mind that the gauge probably won't respond too quickly. If the gauge does not respond in test 1, leave the key in ON. Use a voltmeter to measure voltage to ground at the yellow terminal. The voltage should be changing a lot. If it's not, it could be the gauge, but more on that later. If the gauge moved in test 1, pull out the sending unit. Measure resistance between the two terminals while moving the float. If the resistance doesn't change, you have a bad sending unit. If test 2 failed, double check at the body harness/dash harness interface. Find the yellow wire and test voltage to ground on the dash harness side with the key in ON. Good luck and report back on the results. If you don't understand the tests as I laid out, let me know.

Very unlikely they are related. Start a new thread on the fuel gauge, and I'll give you some tests to run.

I couldn't tell you myself. I just happened to have an extra set of visors handy, so I took a photo to show what @zKars was talking about. It was the only screw, so it seemed obvious to me. Look at this link and click on the photo: http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2012/10/recovering-sun-visors-by-derek-garnier.html I think it tells you what you need to know. Yes, it's for a 510, but it looks the same as the 240Z visor.

I'm running SMs on a stock L24. It doesn't seem too rich to me.

I would suspect the hatch seal first. Then move to the hatch glass weatherstrip.

This one

It's listed, but it's unavailable from MSA. https://www.thezstore.com/product/4919/oil-cap-o-ring-72-83-zzx