SteveJ

I bought some 2 inch vent hose from a vendor on Amazon a while back. It worked well for me.

Do you frequently respond to conversation topics long after everybody else has moved on to other discussions?

If you want to avoid the hassles in swapped parts, Rockauto is probably as good as if not better than the chain parts stores.

Specifically, focus on the EF section of the FSM.

Sometimes it will say that, but it will come back later as NLA. I suggest trying, but don't get your hopes up.

I changed the oil, washed the car, and replaced the horn relay today. The car is pretty much as ready as she'll be for the Mitty on Friday.

Your fuel pump is losing power when the ignition switch goes from Start to Run. When you start your car, the coil on the start side of the Engine Fuel Injection Relay is energized, providing power to the fuel pump. When the key goes to the Run position, another coil on the same relay is energized provided that the relay also receives the signal that the engine is running. All you have to do is read through the references I listed earlier, and you'll be on track to solve your problem.

That sounds like a good start.

Look at the Electronic Fuel Injection Relay. That is where the power for the fuel pump comes from. Go to http://www.xenons30.com/reference and download the 75 FSM (2 links on the page). Go to the following link to get a copy of the wiring diagram: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm.

Not enough insulation. How old are the wires? Could the center wire be nicked somewhere?

There isn't a need if you ordered the extra hardware.

Car & Driver tested the 78 coupe & did a Short Take on the 2+2. Source: http://www.amazon.com/Driver-Datsun-1966-84-Brooklands-Series/dp/0948207515/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335272844&sr=8-1

I'll be there all three days. Look for the Datsun flag.

Just giving a bump to remind people that the show is 2 weeks away.

Are you sure the switch on the back of the ignition switch isn't out of alignment/going bad? Rockauto has them.

For the ignition switch: http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-201-1179-Ignition-Assembly/dp/B000CB246K/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1335104896&sr=1-1 The combo switch is the switch that controls the headlights & wiper. Some also refer to the blinker switch as part of the combo switch since it controls the high beam/low beam circuits. By the way, Rockauto still has a couple of the headlight switches left for $157 + S&H. Look through the FSM and also look at http://www.Carpartsmanual.com for a breakdown of parts. That will help you identify the parts you need to look for.

Then for the dash lights, examine the rheostat.

No, I was looking at the correct area. If you note on the attached section from the wiring diagram. It does not show a wire from the relay going to the connector to meet with the LR wire. I believe that is in error.

If you're worried about ratings, just go with a couple of 30A or 50A relays. Amazon has plenty of SPDT relays with these ratings. You just have to remove and discard the /b (normally closed) contact. The voltage is going to be 12 VDC. These cars didn't play around much with voltage signals. In testing/inspecting the relay, it would probably be smart to do this with the cover off. In examining the wiring diagram I think I may have found an error in the drawing, as there are 6 wires in the plug going to the harness, but only 5 are used. My best guess is that the BW & LR wires energize the coils. The WR wires bring 12VDC to the wipers, and the LW & WB wires go out the rest of the harness. If you have trouble figuring out how to test it, send me a PM with your phone number, and I can walk you through it.

Do the running lights work? They are on the same circuit as the dash lights.

If it's the one Zed Head is talking about, it wouldn't be difficult at all to build the relay out of a couple of standard relays. Depending upon the size of the housing, one could remove the coils & contacts from the standard relays and mount them in the relay. If the contacts are sticking, you could try taking apart the relay and use emery cloth on them. Anyway, relays are relatively easy to replace functionally when they are no longer available.

It sounds like a PO did a swap for a later model alternator. Here is a link to the alternator swap for a 240Z: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html.

The voltage regulator should be on the passenger side fender in the engine bay near the alternator. That said, the PO might have changed to an internally regulated alternator and removed the voltage regulator.

The rumor I heard was well north of $50,000, though I have nothing to confirm what I heard.

The factory service manual (FSM) will tell you exactly how to check your charging system (provided the car is stock). How do you get a FSM? Well, hardcopies pop up on eBay from time-to-time. You can also download them from XenonS30 (link in signature). The full 71 manual isn't available there, but the 72 FSM will work for testing procedures for your charging system. Look for the Engine Electrical section.