SteveJ

With that air dam, the owner would have to relocate the turn signals to the grill. Jegs has a good price on a urethane air dam with free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/Petersens-complete-Petersen-Publishing-Company/dp/0822750074 Also a poor quality PDF is here: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCwQFjACahUKEwjHj-zKv9THAhVGgj4KHQbmDzU&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdatsun510.com%2Fmanuals%2FComplete_Book_of_Datsun.pdf&ei=L-bkVYe8IcaE-gGGzL-oAw&usg=AFQjCNFYvk8VqkaUB9VLe6gHPlV2aF_WKg

I dunno about that. I'm thinking that Greg replacing some bad vacuum lines probably had something to do with the car running right.

Okay, so yesterday apparently went well. Greg was on hand as was Tony, a friend from the Georgia Z Club. Tony and Greg looked over the car, and then we got it up on ramps. (I can't say enough good things about Race Ramps.) Tony shot underneath and started draining the tank with some assistance from me while Greg worked on the temperature sender and sensor. After the tank was drained as much as we could, Tony was working on the lines in and out of the tank while I removed the trim work to get to the vent hoses on top. Tony got the straps loose and dropped the tank. We poured it out and saw some rust. Then we used some gasoline to slosh around the tank to get out any other loose rust we could. We didn't use anything to try to break it up because I didn't want to remove the sender out of fear of damaging the O ring or retaining ring. The couple of rinses with gas seemed to get some more rust out. We heard something rattling in the tank. I put a strong magnet near the drain hole to capture the rattling object, hoping it was ferrous. We lucked out. Tony plucked out a couple of links of some sort by using a magnetic reach. Greg realized he had some other parts at home that would prove useful to the cause and drove back to get them, stopping to pick us up some lunch on his way back. (Thanks, Greg. I normally don't stop to eat, so the burger was appreciated.) We got the tank back in, and Greg finished the under hood work. (Greg feel free to post details. I was so busy with the tank that I wasn't paying attention to what you were doing.) Among the parts Greg replaced were the PCV valve, connector for the temperature sensor, plenty of vacuum hose, filter on the carbon canister...What did I miss, Greg? We got everything buttoned up, and ready to run. The car refused to start and just backfired out the intake. After going over potential problems, we finally pulled the distributor, and turned it 180 degrees. The Z fired right up. Greg noticed some leaks around the thermostat, so he took it apart again to check assembly and torque. He got it buttoned up, and we got the Z running again. I constricted the return line some and noticed the car ran stronger. I dumped a full container of fuel injector cleaner into the tank, and the car seemed to start running a little bit better. Jai and I took it for a short test run, and we made it back fine. I suggested that the drive to church would be more of an acid test. It sounds like it passed that test today. If the injectors were gummed up some, maybe the fuel injection needed more pressure to get enough volume through the injectors. I'm hoping we made real progress.

Another Atlanta 260Z? Send me a PM to let me know where you are in the area. We have a pretty good early Z community around here.

Download the 77 manual from http://www.xenonZcar.com and go to section BF. It is described there.

More than just that, I would recommend a thermostat control. Using switched power is not that important for the thermostat circuit. I would run a circuit with the thermostat to operate the coil of the relay. Then at least a 10 gauge wire for the power to the fan. All circuits appropriately fused.

So do you have a mechanical fuel pump? You should unless you have a later head that doesn't have the port. Are you running SUs? If so, you don't need the electric fuel pump. You could bypass it. That's my plan for my 73. Why are you doing a Maxifuse conversion? You only have the one fusible link by the starter.

Post the year of your car in your post. The wiring will vary depending upon the year of your car.

As a matter of fact, that's what I used as my reference.

Just in case someone reads this thread, I bought these on Amazon. They arrived today, and I installed and adjusted them. The only drawback is that they are silent, so it might be easy to leave a blinker on. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011BTMDQM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

I decided to try adjustable flasher relays. I bought these on Amazon. They arrived today, and I installed and adjusted them. The only drawback is that they are silent, so it might be easy to leave a blinker on. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011BTMDQM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

I bought these on Amazon. They arrived today, and I installed and adjusted them. The only drawback is that they are silent, so it might be easy to leave a blinker on. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011BTMDQM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

From the FSM

bLue

RY - Headlight (Left) RL - Inspection Lamp GL - Front running lights (missing from plug) R - Headlight (Right)

I hope that we can maybe flush out enough of the crap to let you drive it if we can drop the tank.

Dang, you should have tried on my car in Memphis. I have the 240Z foam in my seats. It does cause some head bumping, and I'm a couple of inches shorter than you.

The same fuse as for your other instruments. It's the middle fuse on the left.

Here's the contrarian position. I had a fuel gauge that stopped registering. I got under the car and found the connections at the tank were loose. I got them tight against the sender, and I have a functioning gauge. I can test it with a meter and ensure there's a good connection, and I probably have a good fuel meter if it comes down to that.

The weekend after that is over at Jai's place near Chatsworth. I'm betting on the electrical connection. A multimeter is your bestest friend. If you're in town over Labor Day, you could bring the car over on Monday, and we can put it on the lift.

Joe, Drive down to Tim McGovern's house this Saturday. I'm already going to look at his car and maybe Pat Carr's car. We might as well make it a full day.

Even more reason for me to think that Philip is on the right track. When you start, stop, turn or change elevation, you stir up the tank.

When measuring the voltage on the ground side of the injectors, you will see 12 VDC with the key in the START or ON position until the ECU gives the command to fire. At that point, the ECU is grounded, and the circuit goes from the injector, through the dropping resistor and on to ground. When I measured voltage on a 280ZX one time, the voltage would drop to about 10VDC when the injectors were firing. If you want to "test fire" your injectors, I would ground the circuit downstream of the dropping resistors.

WIth the way it was running most of the time, I'm suspecting that it's picking up debris from the tank when it's crapping out. The next planned visit is the 29th. I guess we'll be focusing on the tank again.