seerex

Hello Bryan , and other new members , hope you enjoy the ride

Any of the Glen's are good choices from what I understand

I have install instruction for putting and electronic dizzy in a point type of car if you want them pm me with your email

I recommend pulling the fuse box out cleaning and checking for burn or melted areas and also look on ebay maybe for a good used stalk, the po wiring should be relatively easy to track and switch back to the stock route once the problem he avoided fixing is located and made right, check the sockets on the brake light , have someone push the brakes and see if a tester shows current and work your way back , but i also suspect either fuse or brake light switch, i resolved lots of my wiring issues but replacing the old bad fuse box , good luck , also a good wiring manual is a great ideal

I second that opion , you can always add a header and exhaust and reuse them on the next motor or rebuilt unit , but a suspension rebuild helps alot, good luck

haven't installed mine yet but got the hp struts with tokico springs shipped for 360 from ebay, and a good friend of mine who used to own a z shop told me that tokico made the suspension techniques springs as well, so something to consider

Hey all. I am about to redo the suspension on my 71 in the next week or two after I finish the garage clean up and move the 72 out of the way , Had a few questions for someone who might have done this and might wish to spare me some errors. First I know the longer struts go in the rear and to add oil to the casing but which springs go up front and which go to the rear boxes do not say neither do the instructions. Also is there anything I will need to make the job easier or that I should replace while I am into it. I have the following 1- Tokico hp struts and spring < advanced suspension kit> 2- Energy suspension poly kits 3- New ball joints 4- Bump stops < poly kit> 5- Impact wrench 6- Ball joint seperator tool 7- Spring compressor with safety latch 8- Ztherapy suspension video Any help or suggestions would be great. The car has only 42,500 miles so I wasn't gonna replace the steering arms. But I am gonna do the rack bushings and the steering coupler. I aso was not gonna install the rear spindle pin bushings, I think they are called. Kinda more than I wanted to get into. The car has to be on the road quickly to free up garage space. Thanks Jeff

another reason to be cautious on ebay , I emailed the seller because I was interested and this was the question and answer , You asked: "Hello, curious with the wheels, what is the bolt pattern , the rim width , and the hub offset. Also is the 300 for shipping correct? You said it comes with wheels and rims did you happen to mean tires and if so what size are they? Thank you" yeah shipping is baout 300. tires are 15"and have an 8 pattern.and yeah the rim and tires come together, and plus theres a little scratches on some, but they are good. how much would you pay for them, and maybe i'll make you a deal. THANKS gevpe0807 quite clear he doesn't even know what he is selling

its finally nice that there will be a Z car meet in my back yard , can't wait , like to get to meet some of you from the club there,

yes the old school style mesh are prized wheels by many including the 510 240sx and ae86 corolla crowd, the 15 and 16 inch draw more money but they are all hard to find , good luck

by the way if you chose to sell them on ebay this is not the way to do it http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7938159903&category=43955

figures in Feburary my Z will be getting painted , well atleast I will get to admire others

Also check the points if you are still using a points type of ignition, I would refrain from messing with the carb settings til you eliminate other possibilities, also was this a all of a sudden thing ? did it run fine and slowly went to crap and a bit of info on the motor would be helpful , stock mods or any new parts put in , good luck

Come guys you know the aircraft edition, you came with the SU carbs and no air filters , thats keeps it all original , atleast he was honest with the statemtn of "Let me start this out with saying that I am not going to pretend to know anything about cars" . thats about where he should have ended it

glad to hear both of you are ok, I am sure the parts can be found to fix, its just one of those things that happen , it could have been worse

I agree Carl, Burts is one of the few I have seen for sale which I would say is worth the 17-20 k range. I think the Orange one is nice but not on the level that Burts is by anymeans. I think there are alot of beautiful 240z's out there for the 8-12 k range and worth it but the jump up from there takes alot < very low miles , or very low vin >. But IMO I like the resto- mods more than completely orginal. Just hope both cars go to people that will keep them in great shape.

gonna have to email and ask for more pics and how much transportation would cost to have the car securely shipped , don't want to risk losing that classic

he must have read the wall street journal story

If this is true everything i have plenty of storage , and it has been in storage ever since. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4506488854&category=6187

simple really, its a matter of production numbers for certain color and engine as well as package combos, get the same year 318 cuda in the brown gold and you will be lucky to see 15-20 k , find a cuda convertable with the plum crazy color and a big block especially a hemi and its top dollar , not including the AAR ones or 360 units or 6 pack cars, kinda the same deal as COPO's and rare California special mustangs or shelby units , I don't disagree with the choice of 10 240's in prestine condition but you also have to expect the price to rise for both as rust and donor cars rsult in less of both , rare cuda and challengers and 240z's , wish I still had some of the old mopars as well as the other old Z's I had in the past but that thought goes in the pile next to investing in microsoft or intel when they first got to the stock market

to funny that one guy says that the early z's weren't chick magnets, gotten more from my old 240's than my porsches and supras combined, also I guess it would depend if you want a woman with style

here is my bad guess adjustable rear suspension that goes where the rear arm attaches to the strut and brake housing ,

If you have lost all like Enrique suggests I would pull the fuse box and examine the back, clean and pull all the fuses if the connections look greenish or check to see if they might be loose.

A good investment would be a shop manual for the car, pull the cap and rotor off the distributor and with a screw drive <flat head> open up the points and see if they are pitted at all or have uneven wear or white areas around the edges. You might need a flash light to get a good view. To adjust them there are two ajustment screws one right below and one above , but there are 3 total there. With the raised side of the distributor shaft hitting the points you can adjust the gap, I think its .0018-.0022 , but you have to have it on the top of the distributor lobe for lack of a better term. If you need pics I can send ? I do better with hand on than descriptions. I would also try running the car with the gallon gas tank next to it. I bought like 6-7 feet of fuel line and that how i diagnosed my to have crap in the tank. After having the tank cleaned no more prob and my car sat for 2 years and i did what you did , added fresh fuel to a little bad. If you might have a funky gas smell if you keep it in the garage its varnish like , I would point towards the tank. But try it with the stand alone fuel can. But also you might have clogged the fuel filter as well as the inline filter in the carbs with the junk can can be brought up from the tank from sitting. Good Luck