gundee

I run the 44PHH size and long story short, I need 3 float needle and seats. In the Mikuni catalog I noticed that they come in several different sizes. Do any of you know what size you run or the size they came with new?

I would say that is Sam Posey in the center. He is now suffering from advanced Parkinsons. I saw him several years ago and it was very noticeable.

I never knew you were supposed to do that first. (Activate) I just put them in straight out of the box. Maybe that is why I don't like them with my new springs.

That is really good to hear. Confirms my experience as I stated above. In my case I am not running as much compression or as big a cam as you are. If I could I would even try 32 chokes on mine, but 34mm is the smallest size that will go into my set up. When I did buy my Mikuni set up, the chokes were stamped 34. However the guy I got them from said they were actually bored out to 36mm. If he had not told me that I would have never known and thought I had 34mm chokes installed. I never ever would have got that thing to run right. Goes to show you can never assume anything.

Just a a note on my experience. When I purchased my Mikuni's it had 36mm chokes. It was just not driveable on the street. Like you I tried everything. Then I went to 34mm chokes and it was like night and day. All problems gone. It was only then I could start the fine tuning. If you had a track car running WOT 90% of the time you would be OK as you have it.

Thanks for the reply Zed. I have been kind of busy. Here is a photo of the other pulleys where they seen to fit more flush. I think it will be just fine too as you said. No high RPM's for me these days anymore.

I have a L28 in my 240 with a ZX alternator upgrade. The belt fits correctly in the alternator pulley and the water pump pulley. As you can see it does not seat all the way on the crank pulley. Do I have a L24 pulley on there do you think? If they are in fact different then I guess I need to get a L28 crank pulley.

Ends tomorrow. May 11th. Seems nice. I just don't like that interior color with that green. High miles too. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-27/

Since I have a 1972, I will be interested in what this sells for. https://www.mecum.com/lots/SC0517-281671/1972-datsun-240z/

How do these rebuilts look? Are they the real deal factory booster rebuilt? I suppose they are but you never know. I remember once we were trying to take mine apart. No way that body was going to twist and open without destroying it.

Never had a drop of water leak into my Z. That's more than I can say about the 5 British sports cars I've had. I purchased the Newark Auto Products 7 pc. kit..Quality looks good. Need to find snaps to install yet for the front. Then some Jute under pad like the factory had.

My 45 year old carpet was so rotten that no black dye would have helped it.

The Magical Mystical Weber DCOE http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/

Well it finally got warm enough today to go back and finish the front springs. These are actually softer than what was on the car. I think I will like these much better. No more loose fillings in my teeth.

There is a few nice 240Z shots included. The photography of Dennis Gray is fantastic! http://www.sportscardigest.com/hmsa-spring-club-races-2017-report-photos/?awt_l=Mu1p2&awt_m=K1pVIVu7wOs.C0

Where did you find that information? I would like to read it. Pertronix is a 40KV system.

I never had a 280Z but on the 240Z, the best fit for the muffler is center inlet and offset outlet. The origional MSA exhaust kit had a slip fit joint located as I marked in your photo. This allowed further adjustment along with the twist of the muffler to get it tucked up higher. If the 3 hole flange they are using now is fixed then that is a bad idea as then there is no longer any adjustments to be made.

Just had an idea. It looks like you have a Pertronix kit in your distributor. You did leave the green tape on the round magnet I hope? If not you can have issues like you are having.

It finally got warm enough to get to the garage this weekend. I got the old front springs removed. Next I will install the new Vogtland springs I purchased.. Then move on to the rears and do the same. Temps have now moved back into the 40's. Hopefully I can get the fronts finished this week.

I was having a hard time following what you had been doing with your motor. I see now there was a separate thread on your new engine rebuild. That would be at wits end for me too. I don't have any other ideas not mentioned myself, but that engine sure does look nice. Good job.

I'm confused. Did you drive over tonight to help out. Are you both working on it?

This may not be helpful in this case. But one thing some people know and many do not is that on a L6 motor if you clamp the timing light to the #6 wire and read your pulley, it will be the same as having it clamped to #1. If it were not then something is wrong with your distributor. Its just a double check.

Thanks zKars for your origional photo. Sorry I could not remember where I copied that from. Your photo really helped alot to solve my shifter issue.

I have a 1978 5 speed. The shifter I pulled from a 5 speed 280Z at the pick and pull looks like the 3rd from the right. Shifts perfect. No grinding needed. Others caused 5th gear issues.

Do any of the suppliers have the snaps installed on the two front carpets pieces that anyone knows of? I just want the 5 piece kit not the 13 piece.