hls30.com

Dead on to what 2manyZs said. I have dealt with Reaction Resaerch for several years. The owner is John Washington-check out the site-he has spent a massive amount of time answering questions, and posting them. You could probably find all you want to know about the kit there. He is very buisy but friendly and helpful, I don't believe you could go wrong buying from him. Will

It is a fortunate man who has the supplies, the tools, and the knowledge to repair rust, and the situation that will let him be honest about what it will cost to fix! I long ago had all but the last one-but not answering a question is not the same as lying is it? Will P.s. sorry to hear about "the frame rail supriser"-sounds like something my High School served for lunch!

There is nothing wrong with talking about your girl, I was just giving you some grief! You should talk about the important things/people in your life. Just make sure the Z comes first! Maybe by a slim margin, but first! I think I am more proud that you are talking about your girl! Will

Looks like your alternator has more current than my synapses! You are right about the pulley! Sorry, temporarily brain:dead: Your engine ground is good too! Will

Aint rust a bite in the arse! That is wht I am sealing both sides of the floorboards! Glad you caught it! Will

Thanks for the replies, I have been grinding the crap-er adhesive out of the floor for a solid 10 days. I hope to finish tomorrow. I am down to the last 20 feet of the four inches closest to the wall that the surface grinder from Home Depot wouldn't touch. I have the cleanup left, and then to put down the coating! Will

Talk about a crank-yanker-you would be spankin' the ricers for sure! Kind of a neat and fun thing to have a wolf in sheeps clothing! Will

What no mention of girls! Oh, I get it, Nissan Sold as many S30s in the states as you have had girlfriends....now I understand! !

Alternative thought, bolt the turbo head on your 240 block. Much better flow, NO valve noise, no periodic valve adjustment. Your manifolds will bolt right up, and you have more tunability! More flow, more go! I would also put the turbo oil pump in the mix. Will

I agree with Zmefly, if you don't want to get into your engine, then put the whole turbo engine in your car. Everything will fit, and the factory, Chiltons, or Haynes engine trouble shooting will still apply! I have an '82 turbo engine running on the ECM and wiring from a '77 it runs well NOW! Save your time and energy for driving, move the whole thing, engine, ecm and harness! Will

LRB, Billy Joel, Humpty, Kiss, they're all story tellers, but when you can tell your story with only a voice, a bass and a piano, youve got something like "Great Balls of Fire"! Will

Most digital multimeters don't care about polarity, an in checking the voltage drop from the body to the engine it really won't matter. Put one probe on a machined surface of the block (usually there is a little of the deck the head bolts to sticking out) and the other probe on the negative terminal of the battery. Anything other than 0(a negative reading is still not 0) or really close means you probably need to clean your connections on the negative battery lead, replace the wire, or add another ground strap the the block. In my '73 the stock alternator will charge the battery at idle-the ammeter moves toward the "+" slightly at adle after starting. Putting a smaller pulley on the alternator will lower the charging ability of the alternator at every RPM. That means that you will have less-if any-charging at idle depending on the size of the new pulley. If you spend a lot of time waiting at stoplights, or cruizing below 1500 rpm, and have some high current items-major sterio, running lights, use the A/C, you could run your battery down-several of the electrical problems you have had-and repaired would be enough to convince me to leave the stock pulley alone, clean all of the contacts on at least the primary electrical system, and maybe upgrade the alternator. Will

I am going to work on this too-I just bought 500 ultra bright leds (10000mcd@20ma) with 470 ohm resistors for materials. I am going to replace all of the bulbs in the car except the headlights. I am going to pull the dash in about two weeks, strip it, and send it for a rework. While it is gone, I will work out all of the particulars of getting the leds in place-if you guys don't get to it first, I'll video tape the installation, and post it! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Will

You forgot the worst of all: DeathRACE2000" Will

The efi system uses a higer fuel pressure than a carb based system, and it returns excess fuel to the tank! Putting a complete fuel injection system from a later car on a car that had a carbureator requires one of three things: 1) A Tank made for fuel injection(one line in and one larger line out) or 2) A smaller surge tank fed from the original gas tank, and the return line from the injector fuel pressure regulator or 3) adding a return line to the original gas tank, and probably upgrading the size of the original fuel line. The Stock EFI system is good for some added performance; but, getting more than 20% more power will probably take upgraded injectors and an ecm. The duty cycle of the injectors and their flow rate determine when the fuel delivery system is no longer able to keep up with the air going through the motor. Will

I have used the wheel polishing kit from POR15.com. It comes with everything needed except a motor! It has all of the supplies for 4 wheels, and comes with a "we'll send you more at no charge if you run out before the four wheels are done" guarantee! Will

Dan, I appreciate your thoughts on what may become a "cooling system Science Project"! I agree, for the results to be meaningful as a whole, there has to be an appropriate basis for comparison, and changes have to be made one at a time, tuned for, and verified. There are a great number of tests that can be made before Dyno time and/or tuning would be necessary. In the preliminary stage, I think this can be setup and tested for about $325 without damage or risk to the car if carefully, and thoughtfully done. It will only be proven to work in reversing the flow, and not overheating, but that would be a first step. If it doesn't work we have lost no more than one day and some supplies-sort of like a day racing when you don't win, but you do finish... My project will be using a hacked GM ecm and its associated goodies to bring everyhting else into a consistant and data trackable performance. I will tune the engine in factory configuration first. I don't think the "Bo and Luke Duke" school of modification is an appropriate avenue to work from, but I also don't believe that it is always necessary to have an engineering degree to use logic and the scientific method to apply technology. Will

I bought one that had been a Tenassee car that was undercoated when new-it protected very well, but probe from underneath-and pull the carpet to be sure-if water ever got trapped between the undercoating and the steel, you could have a real mess! I have owned a car that had that situation, the undercoating hides the problem, and oneday you have a flintstone mobile. The car looked great from the top, very well taken care of, but the floors and rails were gone to the point the car noticeably flexed with the doors open-Prettiest parts car I have ever seen! Will

It sounds like your lock tumblers are worn out. If you only replaced the electrical part of the switch! Will

If it weren't for replaceable parts, Women would be just like cars- it's not the years, it's the mileage... You said you wanted twisted! Will

There was a movie that had 4 or 5 Black Z-cars chasing another car-I can't rmember the name of the Movie-but I remember the chase! Will

1) A generic style in-line water pump will make the conversion dooable in one afternoon. ChrisA had the right idea with the wrong pump! 2) I agree with Mr. Camoflage-reverse the inlet and outlet as well. 3) I agree that GM could engineer and prototype circles around us, but, If their engineers did the job we wanted them too, there would be absolutely no need for any aftermarket upgrades in any GM vehicle! I don't think GM accountants will let them do the job they are capable of! Do you hand wash your Z, or do you take it to a automated carwash? Answer the question why, and you will see that you are aware that the tradeoffs forced into a product to make it cost effective are not always the tradeoffs we want our cars to live with! 4) Reverse flow will not and does not add any power, it moves the coolest spot of the engine from the bottom of the skirt to the head, hopefully lowering the propensity for detonation with the temperature, allowing the boost pressure/compression ratio to be increased, thereby increasing power! 5)This would be done after the rest of the easier and more cost effective things had been worked in. 6) Keep going with the alternative views-thinking is cheeper than prototyping! Will

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I am up for the challenge! I have a turbo project that might benefit from the reversed flow. If I can help, let me know. I have "like this major set of tools." (includes a CNC Mill/Drill/Lathe!) Will

When you get through with what 2manyzs said, do it again! I bought a dual amperage wire-feed at Sams 7 years ago. It can use a gas kit for more flexibility, but uses flux-core wire for now. The welder was about $300. and will take care of autobody sheetmetal easily. Harbor Freight has several less-expensive wire-feed welders as well. Will