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Anybody know the significance of 42? 6x7, 7x6. What is the most valuable textile?

Well, I guess they are bloody now!

I think most 240Zs were shipped with 3.70. Changing them is OK, it will change your acceleration, top-end and fuel ecomomy. Look at the other plates in the car, if the dates match, you probably have a goof! As to the value, probably not a big old bunch of money, my lottery comment was more about the odds than the value-sorry:cry: Will

The article is written, but the pictures were horrid, I don't want to post it with out them-they are truely worth 1000 words...I will take new pictures soon. Will

Hey 26th, a bullseye again! I found that site last week-excellent! I used to think vintage hand built cars were well made if there was less than 1" variation in ground clearance from one side to the other. Now we get to see the variation in the mass-production cars! Something to do with the Demming Philosophy we gave the Japanese... Will

Hey 26th-that was a great explanation! You had another great point I hadn't even thought of, an error on the "original" data plate! Matt, definitely check out the info on it against the rest of the car-You could win that lottery! Will

Welcome back to the land of Z lovers, Congratulations on getting another Z. Sounds like other than spinning you wheels inWA, you are better off! Why doen't the dog cook, my cat can use the toilet! Oop-you wife probably has something to do with it-Job Security and all! I'll cross my fingers and mess up my hair for yor Z! William Stokes

Mat, Enrique might be able to find out for you-he is one of the resident know-it-alls! Just kidding, he is an active member on many of the clubs I lurk in, and is usually right. He may have a way to track your tranny-I know it has a number that is linked to a vin, and a part number stamped on it that will give you a model range, but I have not done the math backwards to find a model year. I have gone only far enough to find the "original" gear ratio. I hope you are taking lots of pictures too! The '72 I am going to restore is currently in the field too, so I know I will be going up there in the next several weeks. If you get ready for paint before then, let me know, and I will make a special trip Will

Matt, you got something! Check your vin, maybe your car was put together Locally, not in Japan! It does sound like a 2+2 door plate! I have several '72 coupe parts cars if you want a plate more appropriate to your car, PM me your vin, and when I go back up to the field-45 miles away-I will pull one closer for you. Mr. Ramsey, I didn't figure for you for a guy that gets his skiveys in a knot over guys-Good Z part maybe, but not fellas! Any Z that is being taken care of-even slowly-as long as there is progress is beautiful. I hope you are taking before and after pictures. I am getting ready to start a new "modoration" on the '72. I am also in the throws of moving-er remodeling before the move, when I get moved, I will get the "new" Z in order from the bottom up! William Stokes

I read through the archives, and found no mention of TEP, and that the question of additions to arrive at a better suspension are better answered by the intended use of the car. I am getting ready to completely go through a '72 (shiney side down) ,and I want to upgrade the suspension for better street handling, I might occassionally autocross-at a club event, but more often than not the car will be used for pleasure driving and stoplight racing. MY thoughts are a lowering spring/adjustable shock kit, complete urethane bushing kit, bigger wheels and tires, and toyota/zx brakes. I think the marginal cost in time and money is too much on coilover conversion-at least for my use. William Stokes

Mr. Ramsey, If it is early-early, late-late, or any where in between, it is bea-utiful! It is what it is, and it is yours! In many cases POs put in what ever replacement parts were avalable: MY Late '73 has a '72 dash, and did when I got it. The '72 I am going to turn shiney side down has a verticle defroster grid. It may be bastardization to some, but that does not mean it didn't happen! I enjoy a car for what it does-a museum holds a car for what it is. William Stokes

Wow! You read what I thought, not what I wrote! Thanks for the correction! Will

l_ortega99, I hope you understood I was making the same point you did. Most exterior stuff only empties your wallet faster, and it usually makes the car slower by adding drag and weight to a car that is already aerodynamicly challenged, and in need of a diet! "Go fast goodies" are usually the evident under power only, and not while sitting in trafic with the license plate rattleing to then overdriven beat agonizing everyone else in earshot! Will

That was just like a PeeWee herman movie, the first few minuutes were a blast, but after that it is time to move on! William Stokes

Everything everyone else said and more importantly, A seat out of a late model comfort car! Your hiney will thank me-so to speak!

I am still going to create one for my car, but my car may change. I have an opportunity to buy a car with a sound chassis and body, but with a frozen drivetrain. I may sell my car-a '73 in decent shape-I haven't kept up with the little things because I planned a ground-up. The prospect is a '72 that needs the things I want to do to it, it is not close to roadworthy, so I would feel better about bringing it back than taking my car down to bring it back. Which ever car I do will get a relay for every switch setting, silver soldered connections, an up-graded fuse box, a moved battery, and LED markers and indicators. I will be documenting everyhting I in articles on both my website, and the "articles" post here. I think BambiKiller240 had a good point that the lolgistics of a single harness to fit several year model Z cars could be a real problem because: " Many of the connectors are slightly different. Length of wiring to components is sometimes different. Turn signal switches come to mind. Hazard switches are another. Cigar lighters in different locations = different wire lengths needed. " Could it be done-Sure, but unless the parts are standardized to one year model, there would be a bunch of different pigtails hanging off at certian points to make it work on all of them. William Stokes

My apologies go out specifically to Enrique Scanlon and any members that I have offended with my personal opinion. William Stokes Ebay ID: Connatser

Start at the top and work down, Spray the cloth, not the surface, I clean anything that is visable with the doors open(jams, weather stripping, trim panel edges...)

Has anyone got any experience with or preferences for garage floor coatings? I am moving in April, and at the new house, I have two outerbuildings to use as shops. I am currently remodeling, and I am considering using a 2-part epoxy for the floors of the two buildings. Rustoleum and Valspar both have a product that is available locally. The larger of the two buildings had a resilient tile floor that was glued down with asphalt. I have peeled the tiles up, and there is still a film of asphalt on the concrete. I have tried all kinds of chemical stripping-they don't touch the asphalt! I am goint to Home Depot on Thursday to rent a concrete grinder and take a couple of 16ths off the floor to get rid of the asphalt. Then I will be ready to put down the floor. Thanks for any suggetions! Will

I have never used babyoil-I worry about where it comes from! Actually, I don't care for the smell, but that is a good question for the chemists in the group!

All of the products should be checked out for the surfaces involved, that's why I grouped several of them, "(Boss Gloss, Armour All, Son of a Gun...)", together. I use Boss Gloss form POR15. It lasts tht longest on the surfaces that need to be glossy-soft vinyl, flexible trim-and tires. I also really like the Meguars products for upholstery and the outside-Meguars has a "how to center", http://www.meguiars.com/howtocenter/ , that obviously pushes their wares, but it has a great deal of good info (articles, videos,etc...) as well. Classic AutoRestorer magazine also has done a technical article on cleaning and detailing, I wil go through my back issues and try to find it. If anyone knows of the studies that have been done to match chemicals to correct surfaces, or, more importantly-what NOT to use on What, I think they should be in here too-maybe the rocket scientists/engineers in the group know of some! Dagnabit, TomoHawk, once again the quote from Sam comes to mind! I am just going to have to check out your website! Will

I always get the following things to clean the inside of my car: 1) A microfiber cloth for the dash, chrome, and gages(pulls out dust and oils without fluid-will not scratch). 2) A bottle brush for dusting inside the center climate control vents. 3) A soft toothbrush for the console, switches, interior emblems, and control knobs. 4) A Vacuum cleaner with a felt covered slot attatchment (will not scuff or mar or stretch old vinyl). 5) Lint free paper towels (Kleenex brand is the stoutest) 6) Vinyl dressing(Boss Gloss, Armour All, Son of a Gun...). 7) Cinch™ for cleaning the glass. 8) Black sharpie-Touch up black painted fastners. Will