sblake01

Searching through the old threads again, Andy?

Yep. Those are somewhat similar, though not the same, to the ones that Darbji was looking for and by no means a 'stock rim'.

Not really Libre's:

Like I said, I've seen it at the shows down here. I thought it was the orange one though I didn't know the owner's name.

That might be one of the 510 wagons that I've seen at the So Cal shows. Too bad it's not in color.

Stock rims?

No problem. Send me a PM w/your email address.

Very, very good avice!! That goes for most businesses these days.

I would suggest against using a 13/16 non sparkplug socket for changing plugs especially if you're not experienced with changing plugs. Get a spark plug socket. If you're going to buy tools, buy the right tools for what you're doing. For instance, I would use feeler guages to adjust the rocker clearance but I'd use a spark plug gap tool for spark plugs. I'd use a non magnetic, non conductive set of feeeler guages to set the air gap in the distributor. Having said that, I would also suggest that you stay away from the things I mention in the last two sentences based on your professed skil level. Make sure your coolant/anti freeze is topped up and fresh. I flush and refill my cooling sytems once a year. Check the level and condition of the brake fluid. I also do a fuel injector cleaning prior to each smog check but that requires special tools which I do have and might be a little over the top for most home mechanics. The cap and rotor doesn't really have to be changed all that often on cars with electronic ignition. Remove the cap and inspect the contacts in the cap and on the rotor itself. If they look good I usually just hit them lightly with a soft wire brush on my Dremel and call it good.

All of that and his url isn't even properly formatted so all it does is stretch the page.

I like the OEM thermostat. It's design is different from aftermarket.

No. This^ is how flame wars start. Alan answered your question before you asked it. And you asked for proof where none was really needed. What? Do you think he makes this stuff up? Apparently he's already done the research that you need to do. Actually, I like Alan's attutude. He tells it straight and I doubt that he's here to 'gain friends'.

I don't have one from 71 but here's one from fall 77 if that helps:

Yes, that would.

I have heard and seen the term over the years. I never really knew much about it other than it being used in other parts of the world. Here's what 'wikki' says:

LOLLOLLOLLOLLOLLOLLOLI'm going to have to leave the computer for a while to compose myself after reading that one!

I think you nailed it. My son was born in 1980. He drives a nicely set up 1993 Nissan Altima GXE but he's crazy about my vehicles. But it may not be the same for GEN-X'ers whose parents were not 'car guys' like were all obviously are or we wouldn't be on this site. Children of non 'car guy' parents would have a different approach to what would be their 'dream car'.

He say's that? So in Brian's opinion being a little off is better than being way off?

The 20 to 23 tooth gear requires a different sleeve than the 16 to 19 tooth. Here's the entire list at Coutresy Nissan.

32703-78104 is what you're looking for. I don't believe the number shows on the Z car garage site.

It sold for the B.I.N.-$17,900.

I never claimed to be Gen-X. I was born in 1950.

That'll work too! I've parted out a few cars in my time and it takes longer to make you money (if you ever really do) than selling a complete car.

Ahhh, yes! The 426 HEMI came out in 1964. The Hemi Charger came out in 1966. The Hemi Cudas, Challengers, and Superbirds actually preceded the 240z since Chrysler had them out at the beginning of the model year in August 69.

Not entirely true. It's just that there are differences between the S30 and S130 electronics and I'm still learning but we do have members who are knowlegable on the S130. They just haven't chimed in yet. I do know that you can't use a non turbo ECU in a turbo car because they, both the ECU connector and the ECU, are totally different. Non turbo ECUs have a 35 pin connector. Turbo ECUs actually have three connectors with 20, 16, and 15 pins. Like turbo 260 said, keep your stock harness and ECU and bypass the inhibitor. The simplest was to do that is put a jumper between the wires that connect to the nuetral switch on the side of the automatic trans or crimp them together since you probably don't plan to switch it back to an auto trans. I believe those wires are black and green/blue tracer.