sblake01

Unless you're going the whole route and doing the turbo, I'd leave that engine right where it is. Plus if he's throwing in a mounting plate make sure it's not for a turbo because that plate would be for a T-5 tranny and it won't fit yours. But, I digress since my thoughts are, based on the overall naivety of your question, are that you don't buy it.

You change the cog from underneath. Beware, the gear lube will spill out when you remove the sleeve so be prepared to catch the lube in something. You'll also have to top up the lube level when you're done. I've never had exhaust fume problems with a stick. The type of transmission has no bearing on that. (no pun intended:))

I don't do any of that stuff with my 78. Yes I do check the timing and idle speed and make sure the K&N filter is clean but that's about it. You know when your car is running right and when it isn't. Introducing a fuel system treatment into the system prior to a smog check will probably cause you to fail. A pre test costs about the same as the actual test so why spend the money? If it passes the pre test, it will pass the actual test. Most places will give you a free re-test if you fail the initial test. To me, a pre test is a scam but the that's how I feel about the whole California smog check system anyway.

If the key cutter or locksmith (there is a difference) knows what he (or she) is doing, the copy will work as well as the original it's cut from. Another note: Remember, these lock cylinders are old. If you cut one from the code, it probably won't work as well as the one cut from the working key.

I purchased a blank from him once. That was before I knew that the blanks he sells (KEY00-00055 and KEY00-00056) are still available from Nissan for less than he sells them for.

Idle doesn't matter much here. In California, they test them at 15 and 25 mph for whatever reason. They'll actually fail you if your idle speed is not within factory spec.

No tricks really. Just have everything in good working order. I have a portable exhaust analyzer that I sometimes use prior to a smog check but I've only used it once on my Z. It's more for my 810 and other cars I work on. Here are the last 6 smog checks for my Z:

The magnet valves and vacuum tank are part of the fast idle control system. That raises the engine idle speed when the air conditioning is on. You won't need them if you don't have a/c. I don't see the check valve in the picture of your engine. It's a round plastic one way valve with an inlet and outlet. Vacuum will only pass through it in one direction. Looks like a few things are misssing/disconnected on your engine.

He said he talked to Epperly.

I'm curious. You had a problem with the injectors not getting power. Apparently you've 'fixed' that if the car now 'runs to rich and floods out'. You never posted that you'd found the solution. What was your fix for the other problem? I only ask because it may have something to do with the present one. Oh, and ignore smokingwheels. Most people do.

Here's a scan of the vapor system. If you're missing parts of that, those fumes have to go somewhere.

Connect the line "S" to the check valve as shown by the black line I added to your scheme and remove everything in the shaded area. That will eliminate the A/C part of the vacuum system and leave your vent door controls intact. As far as the vapor sytem is concrned, I wouldn't remove that.

If you plug the areas that dealt only with the A/C, you shouldn't have a problem. At least, that's what I think your're talking about. There is no vacuum line to the transmission unless you have an automatic. However, not having a carbon cannister will have an effect on the emissions control system.

Yep, it's there.

I have the Chastain 'Shadow' louvers on my 78. They are aluminum and dont have a center rib. They have 2 rubber insulators on each of the five lower louvers and one in the middle of the top one. They are mounted without drilling and they don't rattle. They have a prop rod on either side to hold them up for cleaning the rear window. They were dealer installed in 1977 at as per the P.O. at Ontario Datsun and have done no damage to the window in those roughly 30 years.

What I've done in that situation is take two small needle nosed locking pliers and clamp down the center two coils on opposite sides compressing the spring enough to snap the clip in place. Now that was some time ago when I did that and it wasn't on a Z. When I say Z, I mean S30. It that some kind of collapsable or energy absorbing setup? Looking at your picture, that's a ZX, right? I don't recall ever seeing anything like that in a Z.

Seriously, you got one heck of a deal!

It would already be at my home based on your description. I'd already have pictures posted in a new thread like "Just picked up another Z" or something like that.

The EFI bible that John mentions is a good reference to have for anyone with a 280Z but it's oriented to the 75. Parts of the tests outlined there aren't applicable to the later models because of changes in the EFI system. The 77 FSM has a troubleshooting section in section EF that is specific for that year.

Well, the York compressor itself doesn't work very well regardless of where it's mounted. In brand new condition, they're just not very efficient. There are kits to convert the upright type compressor to a rotary compressor but you'd still be faced with the problems inherent to the pull-through design of the system itself. The coolest I've ever been able to get one of those old systems to run was about 38 degrees at the center vent with a York and about 34 with a Sanden. That's okay if the outside temp is not much over 90 but not cold enough it the outside temp is hotter. A good system has to be capable of getting below 30 degrees at the center vent especially to cool a greenhouse like an S30. The aftermarket kits for the late 260/280 were better since they had a center mounted evaporator but from what I've determined, there isn't enough room for one of those under the dash of a 240Z.

I would need to know more information about the car. Shutting of doesn't necessarily mean that power isn't getting to the fuel injectors. Did it just start doing that? Did you recenty buy the car? What you should probably do is read through the Section EF (Engine Fuel) in the 77 factory service manual. If you don't have one, it's available here. If it says TnA, try the site later.

All U.S. 240Z air conditioning systems were aftermarket. There were several companies that made a/c conversions back in the day including A.R.A., Frigette, and Factory Air Conditioning Corporation. You have a York compressor. In most cases, it was mounted vertically on the passenger side but I believe that it was Frigette that made the kit that had it mounted horizontally on the drivers side. Some kits used a more conventional Sankyo/Sanden rotary compressor mounted on either side. Factory air conditioning didn't appear on the U.S. market Z until the 74 260Z. The major difference between those early units and the factory installed units is the location of the evaporator box. The early units, like yours, have the evaporator mounted in the passenger footwell. The fan has to pull the cooled air through the system. Not nearly as efficient as the later aftermarket systems and the factory installed systems which had the evaporator in the center.

I you have a 75, you want a speedometer from a 75-76. A 77-78 speedometer has an extra pin in the connector when compared to a 75-76 speedo and a 75-76 speedo has an extra connector for the resistor so they aren't interchangable. Basically, two plugs-early, one plug-late. Compare these scans:

Oh, I don't know. According to that chart there were roughly 15000 78 2+2's made. In the four year run there were about 125000 280Z 2+2's made. Doesn't really sound that rare to me though the numbers are less than half of the number of two seaters according to the link. Now, in comparison, there were less than 4800 810 2dr. hardtops made and while that might make it 'rare' in that not many were made, it doesn't necessarily make it overly valuable. I don't really know how accurate the numbers in that link are but don't let the lower production numbers fool you. 2+2's didn't go over as well as expected, nor did 810's for that matter.

Nissan Anti Potato System?