sblake01

I've seen that before in fact I think I have it printed out somewhere. There's a more updated version here and some more useful info here.

I'd just put the manifolod in my drill press and drill them out and tap them to whatever thread that would be easy to find plugs for and not worry about BSPT or BSPP. But that's just me.

Not wanting to get into the politics involved etc., I'll just say that the origins of the symbol that has become known as the swastika and is commonly associated with Nazi Germany/Hitler etc., predates that era considerably and was used by many peoples/religions including Africa, the Far East and many other regions. In fact it dates back to B.C.

Same advice Bill gave. It needed to be bigger:

Well, I hate to say it but if your mom is anything like me, that could be a while. I'm 57 and my son is waiting for my Z. High school was 40 years ago for me and I don't plan to stop driving mine anytime soon. Like I tell my son, better start looking for one of your own.

If you're going to give advice, give good advice. Wire connectors and crimps are just as much a mess. The proper way is to solder the wires using a 'helping hands' type device to hold the wires together while you're soldering and heat shrink over the connections. Much neater, permanent, and you won't have to try to stuff what, at least 11-14 crimp connectors behind the dash/console.

Sounds like you got a bad master cylinder. If your're getting front brakes, the push rod is moving both pistons in the master cylinder. The problem must be with the secondary piston (rear brake; farthest forward) either the seal or the return spring. Disregard the wired caps, this scan if for a 78:

It's probably the same switch. There were several different pods to mount them in different locations. My car is a 78 w/aftermarket a/c but it has the same switch in a pod that mounts on the side of the console at the base of the dash.

I really don't know how the 75 EFI is set up as I don't have a 75 FSM. Not sure if it's the same as a 76 which I do have an FSM for. I do know that the 78 is different from all of them in the way it activates the fuel pump, in that is doesn't have fuel pump contacts in the AFM, so my experience isn't of much help. But, contrary to what m4xwellmurd3r says, I think that best EFI manual made for the 280z's would be the FSM for the particular year 280z that you own.

Yep, local Wal-Mart. It was the only one they had. The only real difference between it and the others (white, yellow, gray/silver, blue) is the paint scheme and the chrome chassis and the 40th anniversary packaging. I guess that makes it worth more.

Just picked this one up:

I can still see the grooves in those wheels. A couple of years ago I did some Iron Cross wheels and the only way I was able to get the grooves completely out was by machine polishing. I used diluted muriatic acid to remove the finish and dirt/grime, rinsed them off and machine buffed them (several times!) and then finished them with Mothers aluminum polish, by hand. I sold those to a guy in Colorado who used to post here but I've not seen him on the site for quite a while.

I've never done it but I don't see why it wouldn't. You'd need to have a radiator with a trans cooler in the bottom. 240 and 280 radiators are different. There's a chance that the 280 already has one since most of the replacement radiators have the cooler in the bottom even if the car doesn't have an auto trans. Other than that, you should have all the parts you need on the 240 to put the auto trans in the 280 and on the 280 to put the 5 speed in the 240. Though I'd buy a new clutch if it were me.

Or just swap the transes and sell the 280 for what you paid for it (or more). They you'll have a 5 speed 240 and enough money to buy carbs etc. When you get the 280Z, post the symptoms and I'll see if I can help you sort it out.

My 78 has never failed a smog check in the 11 years I've owned it.

So actually niether of them run in such a way that they can be driven? The EFI car starting but not running could be due to sitting too long and developing sediment/crud in the fuel tank/lines. Both of them sound like they'll need some work to be roadworthy but in the long run, and I'll get arguments for saying this, the 280Z would make a better daily driver. I think the 'value' thing is over rated. Unless you're buying it for an investment and I'll also get arguments for this but there really wouldn't be much difference value wise between a 73 and a 78.

whaaaat?

Tom Monroe. He did a lot of other books on engines besides Datsun. Small block Ford comes to mind. And he authored some hi performance rebuild type boos also.

Well, I used to use those settings but .5% at idle decreases too much by 1/4 to mid throttle and in doing so skews the readings that are used for the California test. That's why I use the A/F ratio at idle and run the other tests at the speed/rpm that is used for the test. Being in Ohio you probably don't have to deal with all of that. If Cali had their way, we wouldn't be driving older cars. The limits are more stringent for my 810 and Z than they are for newer cars like my wife's HHR. I've experimented enough to come up with what works for the system I have to work with and then I readjust for the way I really want the car to run in between smog checks.

Motorsport sells a good one. It fits nicely, isn't too hard to install, and cools well. Now, like I said, I'm a HVAC/MVAC tech so what I say is easy might be harder for someone who isn't. It's about 1200 bucks though. Vintage Air would probably be better though I've never installed one in a Z. I've done a few installs of Vintage Air systems in muscle cars and they are very cold rivaling anything you'd find in a new vehicle.

I thought I was too. By plastic plunger, I didn't think he meant the switch, but rather the plastic/rubber, whatever, piece in hole in the pedal. Mine's long gone, replaced by a stainless steel carriage bolt.

It's a delicate balance. You don't want to be too far below or it takes other parts out of whack. At idle the air/fuel ratio should be as near to 14.7:1 as possible. That's what I use as a benchmark before I do the CO% settings. I use a different tool for that. It's easier for me to do it than it is to explain it. There are several steps it. But my results are such that I've never failed a smog check with either of my EFI cars. But I cringe when I hear about someone adjusting the AFM without the proper tools or knowing what the range of the settings should be. You can't really just tighten or back out the adjustment screws on EFI without having some kind of way of knowing the readings those adjustments create. It isn't 'x' number of turns in or out, like carbureators. It differs from vehicle to vehicle

You got it basically except the bolt goes all the way the hole and the nut holds it in place. The adjustment is made by unpluging the wires for the switch, loosening the lock nut on the switch, and turning the switch in or out as necessary until the plunger barely makes enough contact with the head of the bolt to turn off the brake lights. Reconnect the wires and your're done.

I try to get the CO% in range. With that in the correct range, about .6% @ 15mph, 1st gear and .2% @ 25mph, 2nd gear, everything else, HC, NO, air/fuel ratio seem to fall in place. At those readings, may cars get the best balance of performance, fuel economy and they pass the smog check well below the max limits.

You might want to also consider the one I have. It's breathable, doesn't stick to the paint and like I said, I've about 10 years experience with it on the car so they're also durable. And it's in the same price range you mention You can put in part #55002-01 in the search box or just go through the drop down menus here:Le Bra