sblake01

Might offend even more people but I agree except I'd say ever since they changed from the S30 to the S130............

Once in a lifetime? I think be able to wrap my mind around that concept if this wasn't a unfinished V8 conversion. Might be a collection of rare/hard to find/impossible to find parts but the car itself does little for me.

Not really as the vertical studs pass through it. It's just a spacer. One should have come with the booster you ordered. I guess they expected you to use the one off your old booster. (Which it didn't have) You car should actually have a 6" booster unless it's a 73. 73 and up had a 7.5" booster and the 2+2 had a 9" booster. There is no 8" booster that I know of.

If your 78 is stock it will run on 87 octane w/o octane booster.

I doubt that it's your AC relay. I recall in one of your other threads that you hit a bump and your AC started working. That wouldn't happen if the relay was missing.

They're not magnesium, they're aluminum.

Those will work but they look pretty much like the OEM connectors and will probably get brittle a crack just like the OEM ones. Plus, you know how difficult they are to remove with the way the clips are designed. We talked about a better solution in this thread a couple of years ago. There's a smattering of useless information n there as usual, however. Look at the connectors in posts #21 and #30.

I don't know about all of that. My cars run fine without running extra ground wires. If you have to do that, then something else is wrong.

Chris, you forgot the link.

I keep that 8mm bolt centered. I suppose you could move it but it won't make up being off by as much as yours is. The oil pump has to come out. If you do what you suggested in the other thread you started I think that would take your timimg to somewhere prior to the timimg mark about as much as you're beyond it now. I won't really run right until you get that distributor drive in the right spot.

I wouldn't advise bending aluminum tubing by hand. It kinks and weakens a little easier than copper. I have the tools for that as well as a ferule crimping tool to make hoses and lines. I've looked into that system and have even installed a couple of them and it's not hype. Like I said, I put one in my bro-in-laws 58 Chevy wagon w/o any kind of rear vents and after a few minutes, that entire car is more than comfortable. Once the initial heat is dissapated, we actually have to turn the fan speed down. I think you'll love it in your Z. The evaporators, seals, o rings, etc. that they use are designed for 134a so they can handle the pressure. Any refrigerant will work in them but since 134a the least costly, that's the way to go.

Nah, the yellow Z is now a Z roadster candidate.:classic:

Judging from the first picture, the pointer seems to be just silghtly below the notch on the pulley. You need to move it to where it is perfectly lined up and then check the position of the tang which looks to be too far left in your second pic.

Yes, do post lots of pictures. I've never installed that system in a Z but I did install it in 58 Chevy station wagon with R134a. It cools that big 'greenhouse' type car just fine so cooling a Z shouldn't be a problem.

er..Steve, I think that was meant for me as it came after post #39 but the thread you linked to is the one I was trying to find when I made that post so....Thank you.

I almost mentioned that but, remember, I was trying to give the 'simple answer':classic:

Kind of hard to pin down the exact year considering how Nissan didn't always keep things in exact numerical order. Based on my 78 having L28 275875 and it's the original engine I'd say yours is most likely a 75 engine or at least earlier than mine. If you look on the other side of the block just behind the drivers side motor mount you should see the block casting number. It should say N42 which would narrow it down to 75-80 and your number would tend toward the earlier side. If it has F54 stamped there, it's an 81-83, but I doubt it since your engine number is earlier than mine plus an N42 or N47 head would raise the compression on a F54 block because it has flat top pistions rather than the dished pistons in the N42 block.

That's definately off. Should look like this:

You mean water temp sensor not temp sender (which would be for the temp gauge). I believe that one of the suggestions in one of your other threads was to check the temp sensor. Bad contact there and the fuel mixture would be rich because the engine thinks it cold. You really need to clean the contacts on that connector and on the temp sensor or even replace the connector if it's cracked/damaged etc. (and most of them are if they haven't been replaced). If you don't, that problem will return.

Obviously you mean without FI you don't see a need for it but remember that's also where your carbs and air cleaner, etc. are.

For me, that statement would be true except for the words "and this is a "purist site". I have lots of experience diagnosing factory EFI setups but that obviously isn't a factory setup. I would just be guessing. And, yes I'd call it a rare problem as I've never come across a 260Z with an L28ET in my travels.

Well you put this thread in the 'fuel injection systems' section for whatever reason but I can give you a better answer than the last. The simple answer is NO. No 72s had electric fuel pumps. That modification came in 73.

There is no module if you're running the stock engine control unit so what did they 'tune'? How is the camshaft 'modified'? Are you saying you have an aftermarket camshaft? EMS=engine management system. I actually think Jason was 'having a go' at you, as they say.

'Desirable'. That's one of those words with many definitions. The N47 head is just the later 280Z/ZX head. For a daily driver it will be fine. The blocks are the same. That head will work fine on your car. If the car ran before you blew the head gasket, why would you want a new engine? Just surface the head (don't have more than the absolute minimun removed) and put a new gasket in.

That's a 77-78 hood but it will fit your car. Only one metal deflector on the side that would have fuel injectors. The other side doesn't have one.