dutchzcarguy

Sorry but it's well over 20 years ago i took those headlights apart. But it says.. ( gasket fits between headlight and CARBODY!) i copied it from the site: These headlamp gaskets will fit 1970-78 Datsun 240Z, 260Z and 280Z. This headlight gasket fits in between the headlight housing bucket and the car body. Choose from right or left. I thought this gasket sits in between the headlight and the fender and that dome sits inside the fender. (I totally can be wrong..) OPen this link and ( Datsun Z Head Lamp (carpartsmanual.com) ) So the fender is inbetween item 12 (gasket) and 13 (dome) ? The sugarscoop just sits in front of the headlight, there is no connection to that part.. Again, i'm not sure.. if there is another rubber inbetween i like to see/know it.

Headlight Gasket Rubber Seal 240Z 260Z 280Z | Z Car Depot Inc

The last thing i want to do is humiliate people but.. yes, the first thing i said to myself was.. they are going to regret that! All that paperwork alone (something i REALLY HATE!!) Comes back.. tonnes of work, for what? It was just a big mistake.. get back in there! TODAY!! 🙂 Back on topic, guys, thanks for testing that site! Thanks, Chas!

I get a FORBIDDEN Error 403 when i try to access this resource.. is it because i'm in europe? strange..

My 45 year old analog multimeter..

??? Zclocks said that haha.. I only thought it! Yes it's handy to have a capacitance meter.. And i realy like Fluke meters! I got myself a Beckman many years ago, you can throw it against the deck and then in a bucket of water and measure your threefase system while in water.. haha.. never tried that! (with it's own correct leads ofcourse..) These days there are a lot of good measuring tools.. get yourself a quality product! I still got my fully working analog meter of 1978!! ANALOG! I still use it from time to time.. i sometimes use it measure capacitance with the ohms-meter.. (Can't tell the capacitance but i can see if the capacitor is dead ..)

I would for sure check the partnumbers at Nissan NISSAN made a promise many years ago to make all the sportscarparts available in the coming years.. so i heard.. i don't know if this IS THE CASE !!!!!!!!!!! But i see the most strangest parts available again for the 240Z ARE THERE PEOPLE HERE THAT HAVE SEEN THE SAME? (Original 240z/nissan sportscar parts with the orig nissan/datsun partnumbers on it!)

The grease makes a mess of the citron/salt solution.. i can imagine that. What i do i throw the parts in a solution of washing powder (I prefer Biotex green) it cleans the part of grease and any rubber part becomes plyable again!!! I always use Biotex green to make any hard rubber soft again.. it works most of the time as long the rubber is not damaged. You do this with warm/hot 60C water and leave it in there for a week or so, sometimes look at it, clean it and some rubber parts will give a lot of black dirt from them. throw most of the old soapy water away and take some new soap and hot water once or twice in that week. You end up with a good part! Thanks for the nice reaction on the spring exspanding idea! it was my own!! If you don't do that you end up in a year or so with a spring that starts to rust because of the bad passification.

Interessting as my 240z whipers are all over the place.. due to very worn mechanics i guess... so maybe there comes a time that i need your topic. Maybe there is a complete repair set for this? Also.. Have you looked for a complete whipers mechanic part in the orig nissan partslist? maybe you/we can buy it new?

Thanks AK, When i got something rusty that needs a restore i try that trick.. Thanks! In the past i had trouble with parts that had some old paint on them and when they came back from passifying they where not perfect as they don't take off the paint first .. they just throw it in the tanks to clean and passify them. That ment i had to clean them myself and bring them back again.. And.. Don't forget to put a strip of metal in the springs to get them perfect..

WOW !! Truely one of a kind! Congrats!!

My 240z clock does not run but when i adjust it and i set it some to the left and right a few times it will start and run for some time! It stops after i stop the engine or inabout 15 minutes or so.. you can try this.. just wiggle the knob in the middle of the clock.. mine starts if i do that..

HAHAHA... the best line in this whole topic!! 😂 (For us single guys!) Bart once cleaned car engine parts in his mother's dishwasher hahaha... Hahaha.. I need to know what she said when she came home!! 😅 Next time throw a sausage roll with it's plastic packaging still on in the oven.. then you have an excuse for the smell Hahaha..

You can alter the gears by shimes left or right, ad or retract..

Do not forget to check the alignment of the gears.. see some youtube videos about that! Otherwise you might hear a BIG crash in your diff some day. very important that the gears come together on the right spot

My 240z has no diff arrestor as it's called.. i made many years ago a steel U shaped part with some rubber Under the original diff. insulator! This way it can't go anywhere! (Sorry i got no pic of it) My 240 needs a complete overhaul and there is laying around a new diff insulator.....

For a (very?) short moment i thought.. AM i wrong? but no... my calculator also said: 50 x 2000 = 100,000 $ 🙈

Guys...guys...GUYS!!! 50 bucks times 2000 wakey wakey... how much??? yes a 100 grand not 10k.. 😮 Now you see why a car restore is never cheap when you want it perfect. I always say if i get half of what a prof. restorer/painter/technician asks i'm OK with that. (btw i think as i got much praise on my 280zx restore even from a english pro called Trev' ! (look at "trev's blog"at youtube you learn A LOT!!) i did also a good job. I think my 280zx had easely 2000 hours if i count all the work of finding the parts and getting them and.. and... and... As i said: that 240 is going to be the bisnizz.. hihi..👍 (I mean perfect car/example of a good restore!)

Nice way to clean parts, how much salt (grams) in the liters of lemonjuice? Also some water or?? What i remember from my horns they need a new adjustment to work right but i think you know that. There is a screw for that in the back of the horn i belief (immsmr).

It's totally worth it, total comes around 25 grand.. i guess.. maybe one day i buy it from you for that? hahaha.. no i need to get rid of one first.. a very nice 300zxtt.. You do a very nice job! as we say in the netherlands: GOED BEZIG!! 👍

https://www.hagerty.com/marketplace/auction/hGKn8rHytYkjYUULAJlnh?fbclid=IwAR0MD8_76rmoDK-kIyAPyuPwq4adRbQQ1efNcrX70h6a0GXZ9meozisyOgQ Funny i got the same one, feb 1971 but without the bumper scaffolding 🤣 and a short (no summer/winter valve) airfilter..

I don't! 😉 I wouldn't use the (old?) tantalum caps where the orig. one is a electrolitic.. just get yourself some new c's that are new.. if you gonna use old caps to replace very old one's... that's work for nothing.. you can get the 3 (i counted) caps for a few dollar! Most times these capacitors are the culprit. Watch the plus and minus, put them in correct!

Always all sparkplugs out, this way it's much easyer for the starter (and the battery) as they don't need to work hard to get compression in all 6 cylinders.

Jarnved is in Denmark, In europe we had the 240z with original 5 speed gearbox! (Fs5C71 A or later B ) I once had a 240z original Dutch car (Netherlands) and it had the orig 5 speed standard. (Fs5C71B) That gearbox (and diff! 3,9:1 ) is now under my usa spec 240z. (got the orig parts as spares on the attic)

btw.. i never open the throttle.. and get 150+ psi anyway.. so i don't bother to open the throttle.. a good engine will pull that air anyway.. try it..