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I've still got mine CO. I know I've got both rear shocks and maybe one front from a parts car. Rear rubber yes, Front rubber no. I've been crazy busy lately and I'm sure they are somewhere in my shop so I'll try to dig them out this week. PM me and we can work out the details.

I refer to most of my tools with the chinese name when they are missing, which is usually when I'm using them and just set it down for just a minute. I swear my garage has a ghost who messes with me!

I've asked for this tool so many times!

I just ran a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in with my last oil change for that very reason. When I adjusted the valves after that everything looked good, at least on the top end.

Lucky me, I got to re-tile a shower today. Did get to drive the Z yesterday a little though!

The link was just an example. If it is a valid part # and still available, your nissan dealer will be able to order it and not charge you for shipping. Worth a phone call.

If can verify your part # try calling a Nissan Dealer. Still quite a few parts available from there. The part #'s you listed are in stock here on this site http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com , Pretty cheap for a factory part IMO.

Thanks for the information Mike. I've been looking at this very unit and others for the last two weeks trying to make a decision. This company also sells this in a kit that comes with a mini air compressor that could come in handy. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Now that you're famous are you going to offer autographs?

494 Cliff! You can do it!

Yes, Welcome! I'm not an electrical guy but I know the more specific you can be the better chance of an accurate answer. A few more questions before more chime in, Is this 77' new to you? How long did it sit? Could any varmints have chewed any wires when it was sitting? Was it running before? Have you cleaned all your electrical connections? Pictures of the work you have done will go a long way and help give folks more information.

Lookin' Good, Cliff. There's a cruise in here in Dalton next Sat if you are interested.

Lots of info about steering wheels here. I did mine last year. It wasn't too difficult, took less than day and it did not cost a whole lot. I can't seem to find the before and after pics but here is a view of it inside the cabin

Sad to say I can't make it. Too far and too much for this Georgia boy .

I had mine painted last fall. The original paint code sticker was #240 so I went to the Automotive paint store and they pulled up the Datsun code #240 from 1977. It does not have the blueish tint that you are looking for. The only difference is that I have a two stage paint vs the original acrylic. I suspect your PO had it repainted to his/her liking vs keeping the original paint.

I got you beat. Mine is just printed backwards……….

+1 on the rear window louver. It's a must for me here in GA, especially since my AC isn't working yet. Plus I've never liked the way window tint "blurs" the occupants exterior view. Just my opinion.

Considering what the Park Benches looked like before, I think both look very, very nice. If my 77' had come with both bumpers and black bumper ends I would have gone this way, definitely . I have a 240 style on the front now and will probably do the same with the rear since I've already headed that direction. I do have and extra set of rear shocks if anyone is interested in them.

Count me in for a pair of rear brackets. I'm getting tired of people asking if I'm going to put a rear bumper on.

Actually, I was at the Paint shop a couple of weeks ago and just happened to look down on the shelf and I saw POR15 Solvent. http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Solvent_p_19.html. Might be worth a shot if you suspect it to be a coating. I've read where Acetone will dissolve tank coatings also. I've used neither but it sounds promising. Keep us posted.

Maybe there is more concern to you as I can't see the whole tank, but what I saw would be easily cleaned with the products Siteunseen and I have mentioned. If you are going to coat it yourself I would think that cleaning it yourself also would be no big deal IMO. But hey, if you feel better having it hot tanked/boiled by a shop then go for it. There is something to be said about knowing a job is done right. Clean is Clean no matter who does it and that is ESSENTIAL for either Red Kote or POR 15. I haven't used the Red Kote so I don't know about the boilout warning but worth verifying before proceeding with it. Compare your tank to this one. This was after it was boiled. It didn't look much better before.

Do get the joint soldered, but from your pictures I see no real reason to hot tank or cut it open it unless it it clogged. That should save you some money. Like Site showed you with the muriatic acid and Red Kote, you can clean and coat it yourself in an afternoon. Then wait a week for it to cure. I did mine with POR 15 products. The POR 15 has a 3 step process, clean/degrease, metal etch, and coat. Cure is the same time.

Be Safe, I'd hate to have to drive all the way up there to claim your stuff!

I would think that for all the rubber parts, new would be better than used IMO. Readily available from MSA, Arizona Z and Black Dragon to name a few. Specific Rubber Grommets can be found here http://www.240zrubberparts.com PS; We are all over budget (and some of us are dried out also).

Not judging, but you have a pink TC rod?