gwri8

Thanks for the lead Cliff. I was considering Haggerty but they were being pretty sticky about excluding my children from driving the Z. My son, away at college ,and my daughter who hates my car and can't drive a manual. No big deal really but it just kind of bothers me a little. I'll have to check Infinity and see what they can offer.

Question: Is it wise to use Anti-seize on the head bolts and exhaust studs? I'm wondering if it holds up under high heat. I would like to avoid snapped bolts in the future.

I just placed my 3rd order. I'm about to enter myself into rehab.

Hmmmmm, I wonder if that's what was on it that made it so difficult to remove? I'll ask the machinist about that permatex gasket spray when I pick up the head.

That is a Helicoil. I discovered it the first time I changed spark plugs and it came out with the plug. I about crapped when that happened because I had never seen one before. I've since used Thread lock to help hold it in.

No, not corrosion/rot because it comes off. I'll guess that maybe it's varnish? I have run some CRC one tank on occasion and maybe that was some carbon or whatever that was peeling off? I can't say for sure because the head is in the shop. Looks like something got soaked and wasn't all the way off yet.

I wasn't expecting OEM from Datsun Spirit but I'm glad they sent them. The reason I ordered from them was that they wanted the specific block and head #'s for the appropriate part. I appreciated that Datsun Spirit would take that step. None of the other vendors I checked were that specific for information. The leak was about 2 inches wide right below the right angle cylinder head water outlet to the back corner.

Snapped Head bolts are out! Soaked them in PB Blaster for a few days while the head is at the machine shop and today i heated the bolts only, not the block, with a propane torch. Gave them a good tap with a hammer and put a vise grip on the nub sticking out of the block. It took a little while but with some tapping on the vise grip with a medium hammer they finally broke loose. No more snappage. Now just waiting to hear from the machine shop. I asked them to check head level and give the valves/seats and seals a good inspection.

Only in Alabama…….. and maybe Mississippi, or Georgia, or Louisiana.

Sorry, I never gave the original reason for the head gasket. The Z was losing radiator fluid and there were no puddles or leaking hoses. Upon closer inspection I noticed said fluid flowing out of the back of the head, but only when it was running. Obvious head gasket problem. I could have used Stop Leak or something similar and MAYBE….. it would have contained it. But my thinking was why put a band aid on a problem instead of what I would have to do eventually to fix it properly. Plus that stuff coats everything and I didn't want that. Of course, when I a snapped head bolt along all the tugging, pushing, prying, pulling and cussing the head, I was in too deep to go backwards. The Quest had begun. What gave me encouragement is that I've got a winter project L28 on a stand in my shop. I've started the tear down when I have the time. The head on it popped right off, no problems whatsoever. I call that one "the bait head". I can't write here what I call the one I dropped off at the machine shop today. I know in a recent thread there was discussion about head gasket brands. Just a shout out to Datsun Spirit, I ordered the gaskets, bolts and studs from them. They sent nice, pretty OEM Nissan gaskets and cad plated bolts/studs. The bonus part of the project was the manifold stud bolts. They were rusted of course, but weren't the same. There were a couple of 12mm, some 1/2", two 7/16" and a bolt in place of a stud that none of my sockets would fit. Good ole' Mr Cresent wrench to the rescue for that one. It was an omen that I had to remove the heat shield before I could get the manifold off…. You gotta love PO's.

We have Separation! I was fully expecting to find a ton of red sealant but there was nothing unusual. Maybe I need to go to the gym more often.

Thanks Cliff. Doing it that way has opened about a 1/8" gap so far. I'm a little hesitant about diggin' in with a putty knife just yet. I'll spray a little solvent in there and let it sit overnight. I'm really curious to find out what is holding it down like that.

Y'all mean the driver (exhaust) side for overhang, right? I don't see it on the passenger side.

I've got all kinds of hammers. Not too much room to swing though.

Bolts are out, including the 2 front 10mm.

Unfortunately there are no gaps so far. My current attempt is with the hoist. I've got it hooked to the front and back of the head at the lift eyes and under some tension, not enough to tear the motor mounts but enough to hopefully let the weight of the car, time and Mr. Gravity work a little bit. Plus a few taps now and again with a dead blow hammer for good measure.

That is one option, but I think it would involve too much beer and those famous words "Hey, watch me do this!"

Thanks that was a good suggestion, I had not thought of leverage yet. I did try it before I had to run out for a while, but alas it did not work……yet. It is a good powerful use of pressure instead of force and I might be able to improvise a little off of the approach. Zed, nothing rusty, however one short bolt snapped right where the threads begin. I'm guessing it's probably flush with the block. Lucky me . Chickenman, You are probably right about the sealant. This thing acts like nothing I've seen before. It's like it is still bolted down. I still alternate between the 2X4 and the breaker bar. I've also been using a Hard Rubber hammer. Maybe I have to use the engine hoist next with a lift eye on the rear also along with a hammer. I really don't have any desire for headers though, I've got 2.5" exhaust to magnaflow and that is enough for me right now. Typical of most of the projects with this car, I think I should rename it to Gilligan. My three hour tour is turning into long running tv series except no pretty women…….

I'm in the process of replacing the head gasket on my 77' 280. I've disconnected everything touching the head, pulled the exhaust an intake manifolds, got the wood shim on the timing chain placed, cam sprocket if off, removed the 14 head bolts in the proper order along with the two front 10mm bolts. The head won't budge. I've tried putting a breaker bar in the intake and no luck. I'm trying not to go neanderthal. Is there something I'm missing? Let me add that there is evidence of prior work done with the exhaust manifold judging by the amount of red sealant and mismatched bolts holding it on (that's another story). So I think it is safe to say the head has been off before.

My first. A used 71' that was silver when I got it. This is when it was just painted black by a friend of mine. Rebuilt the engine and Ported and polished the head. I had dreams about it for years…..

Captain O's most recent post on Brake Boosters. Also lots more info if you do a search.

What are you going to pull it with? I hope it's not the Camry…..

I just happen to have a spare tire well from a 77' . Should be the same for a 78'. It's in fair shape and already out of the car. Let me know if you are interested.

You're blowing this out of proportion IMO. I know you're not the handiest guy, and neither am I for that matter, but threatening to sue over aligning your doors is probably the reason they won't answer your phone calls. How about you just align the doors yourself. Problem solved. Plenty of info on here to do that. Edit to say a 5mm gap between panels is perfectly acceptable, I would even say desirable.