gwri8

Stumbled over this today. This should help enable any Z owner. http://www.cheatsheet.com/automobiles/the-datsun-240z-one-of-the-greatest-sports-cars-ever-made.html/?ref=YF&yptr=yahoo

Speed fix. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-280Z-DASH-WIRING-HARNESS-Very-Nice-/272413833775?fits=Year%3A1976|Model%3A280Z&hash=item3f6d213a2f:g:K8gAAOSw6n5Xp9oX&vxp=mtr Even if you don't buy, maybe the pictures of the connectors may help. 2 Questions: How is that red toggle wired to your turn signal and hazard? and I see a choke indicator where the fasten seat belt indicator should be. Do you still have fuel injection or has it been switched to carbs also?

If it calls for a 10 amp, DO NOT put 20 amp in it's place!. You could easily fry your wiring harness doing that. You must have a short somewhere. Trace the line and for the radio and find the problem. Don't play the radio until you figure it out. I saw the picture of the fine mess your PO left you. Take your time and try to get it all straight. This is also a good challenge for you and your instructor.

Rock Auto still carries FI and TPS connectors.

Do you see any obvious fuel leaks around the injectors or fuel rail? There are a lot of small clamps there and one or two can easily be overlooked and be not tight enough when putting it all back together. I found a couple of loose ones after I had serviced that on my 77'. If you put a fuel pressure gauge between the charcoal canister and fuel intake line it will give you ready information as to EFI questions. Also, I don't see a heat shield under the manifold. That makes is harder to visually see a leak in that area.

Obviously it's a storm trooper special. I was probably in the background in Episode? Veeeeery rare.

As you might have guessed, pictures can help a lot by showing things not mentioned. Is there any way of you can show your engine and the work you have done so far? Could provide obvious/not so obvious clues.

You have now passed your first Z initiation test! There will be more and it will be ongoing just as it is for the rest of us (except Blue). Ignorance can be cured, maybe not in my case, but that's why I'm here anyway…to help me keep mine on the road. How do your headlights and gauges work now?

These? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a14/34-2235 Not really sure what you are looking for, picture or part # maybe?

Looks good!

Well Steve, If you reaaally don't want it, you can come put it in my driveway…….

I considered pulling mine also when I wanted to clean the engine bay. The cons outweighed the pros in my case except for the radiator, I did pull that and have it flushed, then I repainted it. I wound up doing one side at a time, unbolting everything and taping some hoses that couldn't get out of the way. Cleaned, degreased then repainted with colored matched enamel from the Automotive paint store as I went. Re-attached it all and was done (one side at a time, including the firewall. It was a little time consuming but I didn't have to remove the hood and wrestle anything else. If you are not painting, It should be even easier. That is also a good time repaint the block if you desire and steel wool the copper A/C lines when you are there. Before and after shots.

Maaybe this is what they meant?

I assume you've disconnected the AFM and linkage. You can see the 4 on the top. The Intake is also connected on the bottom with the exhaust manifold by 4 heavy washers and nuts that overlap the exhaust and intake together. If you remove the heat shield first you will see them and be able to access them better. Be prepared, they are held on by studs that will probably be rusty and often snap off. Maybe you will get lucky and be able to loosen the nuts enough to remove the intake without removing the exhaust. Also, the intake and exhaust use the same gasket. You might have to replace it which means pulling the exhaust also. A lot will depend whether or not any sealant was used on it before.

I haven't received it.

Sorry, I had to run off and be responsible and stuff. I'll pm you

Actually, I have one that I just restored. Unfortunately Like Mark has mentioned before, shipping from GA to Alberta would not be pretty.

I've never watched a BAT auction before, so I tuned in about the time it was to end. It started from the original 20K in $500 up bids. When the auction was supposed to be over a timer of 2 minutes would start with each new bid . It didn't end until there was no counter bid within the 2 minute timer well after the official end time. I know real person auctions go until there are no more bids but I'm not familiar with online bidding other than ebay with a set end time. Is that common with bigger ticket items like cars to extend the auction time?