Mark Maras

If a Stratocaster could ask for anything for Christmas, it would be a David Gilmour.

That depends on coolant flow and air flow. A temp drop isn't a sure thing if either of the others isn't up to snuff. A long time ago the fan clutch on my 71 locked up. I ended up replacing it with a flex fan and a spacer to put it about 1/2" from the rad. (Not a popular replacement for most Z owners). I ran it for another 15+ years and found it to be superior to the fan clutch.

Almost right. Along with spinning the pump and fan faster you're also running the engine faster which means more heat is created in any given length of time than it would at idle. Out of curiosity are you using a fan shroud?

When you say "Once the car is driving, the temperature drops like a stone", (assuming it's at operating temp) does it go down to operating temperature or lower?

What is a list title? I've titled and licensed a couple of cars in Wa. and Or. What a pain in the arse. Is there a short cut?

Great advice. I've done it more than once. If however you decide to try this method to back up, leave a lot of space behind you.

Pull the rubber boots back and take a peek under boots on the clutch master and slave cylinder. If there is brake fluid in the boot, you've found the leaky cylinder. Over the years I've found that if I replaced the leaking cylinder and not the other, within a year I was replacing the other cylinder because of a leak. I recommend replacing both cylinders at the same time.

Guage doesn't exist in American English, but just to complicate or simplify matters, gage is another acceptable way to spell it.

I used lacquer thinner on the residual undercoating. Mineral spirits took too much time and effort.

Years ago I disassembled my late 70 4 speed because it had the same problem going into second gear. When I got it apart I found pristeen synchros. I replaced them ,the bearings and seals because I had the new parts. I later reused the pristeen used synchros in a friends gearbox. The used synchros worked just fine. The experience left me thinking the original problem with my trans could have been fixed with different gear oil.

The hole in my US slotted alum wheels is 3". They were on my 71. The caps were attached using 4 sheet metal screws. The holes are 3 5/8" apart center to center.

The hole in my US slotted alum wheels is 3". They were on my 71.

If you do end up drilling it, use a left hand twist drill bit. When the bit gets enough bite on the bolt, the bolt frequently screws out with the bit.

My 71 Z roundtops were adjusted for near sea level. When I took it up to Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood (app. 5000') I had to lean the carbs out a bit to keep it from missing. I noticed the miss started at just over 4000'.

Factory option, or dealer installed?

I've not seen one before. It reminds of that saying "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should".

Is it possible the switch is screwed in too far? My first thought is wrapping the threads in PTFE tape to encourage sealing and prevent the switch from screwing in quite as deep.

Is the "micro crack" in the dist. cap near #1?

Pull the transmission and stick your head up in the tunnel and look thru the p. plate to the clutch splines. The clutch splines should look centered in the p. plate fingers. If it's not centered, loosen the p. plate just enough to slide the disc to the centered position tighten it down and install the trans. I've successfully installed two clutches with no pilot shaft to center the disc. Honestly, on the first install, I doubted whether I could do it by eye but to my surprise, it slid right in. Same with the second.

I don't have an answer but my first impression is it's not electrical. Seems more like the throttle butterfly is opening and closing to produce that amount of variation in the rpms. It appeared that you were holding the throttle steady.

Have you tried putting the car on jackstands, starting it up, and putting it in gear to see if you can locate the noise while it's up in the air?

You say it doesn't change with RPMs but does under load. Does it change with speed?

Take a look at the one star reviews for that item at H.F. They describe the same problems with the unit.

The difference in the injected and carb grinds could be the lobe separation angle. A narrow angle between the lobes contributes to valve overlap. The closer the angle the more it kills vacuum. (Thanks "Engine Masters").

I once found a frayed (near the center) cable that was causing a speedo fluctuation.