Carl Beck

That is one that goes under the heading of "If I Hadn't Seen It Myself"... Amazing... who would have believed it... thanks for sharing... Carl B.

Hi Bob: Pay the man - after you take the head back to him with the Torque Spec.'s. Ask him to torque it down as he shows you how it's done. He will most likely put the cam in the support towers, and as he tightens the bolts down, he should be constantly turning the cam by hand.. to feel the resistance if any. He will follow basically the bolt tightening torque sequence that is used to bolt the head down on the block. This is done all the time by professional shops. I believe that Nissan's warnings in the Field Service Manuals, as well as those in the after market manuals (that copied the FSM's) had more to do with Dealer Service Personnel, that had little experience and very little need to ever remove the supports. There is also the possibility of getting them mixed up (not put back in the same location as they were). In the aftermarket "performance" field - the situation was quite different right from the beginning. Milling heads and decking blocks commonly resulted in the need to put shims under the cam towers - to put the cam/crank centerlines back in the proper relationship. So of course they always had to take the cam towers off. The one thing you do not want to do is mix them up by location on the head. I'd say let him do it - so if he screws it up... he's holding the bag not you. Just plead ignorance and fear.. and ask him to do it. It is most likey he has the bolts close to their final torque settings anyway, and he has most likey already assured the cam is freely turning in them. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi David: Sounds like a great project. Lots of people here to help. Were in Florida is your brothers shop? FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL

Hi Steve: Thanks for publishing the full story - that is a huge amount of work for a very small price. I'm sure the owner is tickled pink. A review of your process, will also give others a good idea of what all is involved, or what they can exect to encounter. FWIW, Carl B.

Have someone sit in the car and pull the choke full on - then off - then on. You stand at the engine and see of the action at the carb's matches the action at the choke handle.. It sounds like your chokes may be hanging up... for one thing. Also check that the vacuum slides are freely moving... Pull a couple of plugs - say #1 and #6 and see if you fouled them that last time you moved the car. Cold weather starts in the old Z's require very rich mixtures - starting a car and moving it - where it never reaches full operational temp's - can easily result in fouled plugs.. just some thoughts... FWIW, Carl B.

Why is that ? It would seem, from the pictures that the two drive on ramps are not connected together - wouldn't that leave the entire undercarriage open to work on??? FWIW, Carl B.

Return from where? You could hook up a return from the regulator - in which case the return line needs to be the same size as the feed line. Or you could use the return line from the Carb. Fuel Rail... in which case you would not have a return out of the regulator. A return from the carb.'s helps keep the fuel cooler at the carb.'s. A retun from the regulator seems to be more a matter of reducing stress on a higher pressure fuel pump used where high pressure isn't needed. I'd agree that you should replace the EFI Fuel Pump, with one matched closer to your Carb's. needs. I use the Holly Fuel Pressure Regulator with no return line at the regulator. Part Number HLY-12-804. It regulates pressure between 1 and 4 psi. Satin Finish http://www.holley.com/12-804.asp Not to be confused with the HLY-12-803, which regulates pressure between 4.5 and 9 psi. (the part numbers on these always seem backward to me). FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Gang: Rick Lapp, a friend, IZCC Member #10474 and Suncoast Z Car Club member passed away recently. Jim Frederic and I are helping Rick's widow sell his Z's. Rick had a super nice Silver, 1974 260Z that he had owned since 1975 and equally nice White 94 300ZX A/T with about 87K miles. Rick's Silver 260Z is street stock - with 240-Z bumper swap, upgraded engine performance, S.U.swap, 5spd and NOS OEM 3.9 R200. You can see the full description on E-Bay. This is a super nice 260Z, lovingly cared for that you could buy at a very reasonable price. One that you could feel free to drive across the Country. {anything this Z needed was done, usually ahead of time}. The Buy-It-Now is set at $12,500.00 for a quick sale and I feel that is a bargain in todays dollars. EBay Item number for the 260Z: 280294717288 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.com%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm38.l1313%26_nkw%3D280294717288%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&item=280294717288&viewitem= EBay Item Number for the 300ZX: 280294703382 I have posted some additional pictures of the 300ZX at: http://ZHome.com/Rick/Rick.htm http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitemdesc=&seller=jim240z3cgt&ebaydesc=1&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.com%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm38.l1313%26_nkw%3D280294717288%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&js=e583%3A1&item=280294703382,280294717288&t=0&s1=2&viewitem=&hr=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem These Cars are also For Sale Locally - so if you are interested, or know someone that would give these Z Cars the love and care they have always had in the past - don't hesitate. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Rob: Great idea - will do - with permission from Skip. Hi Skip: Thanks for digging them out and scanning them - great memories to share. Carl

Hi Coop: Good to see you here. The new car looks great! .. Where have you been between Z's. You wouldn't have an extra LeMans wheel laying around would you? I need one more for the BRE Baja Z. Actually you really should have newer wheels on that car, thoes old mag.'s aren't as trustworthy as they were 36 years ago:finger: I know where you could get rid of themROFL kind regards, Carl B.

Hi Doc: Thanks - that picture was taken by Mr. Brock, and it is a great shot. He did a photo shoot with the car last March at Amelia for Classic Motorsports. Yes, that's the same Peter Brock that designed the 1963 Corvette Sting Ray (originally drawn around 1957 as I recall), and designed the Cobra Daytona Coupe while at Shelby America. He also did design work for Toyota, Triumph, Hino and several others. As mentioned above, he has a Web Site now, on which he and his wife are publishing a lot of historic information from his personal archives. It's a neat site http://BRE2.net Tell us more about Stacey and her Dad's old Morgan... FWIW, Carl B.

The actual URL remains the same. The server had a bit of down time, but it's up now. The re-direct is to a new FIOS line. Testing to see if it is actually faster downloading large image files etc. Right now it is a Speed vs. Cost evaluation. On FTP transfers from a client to the host ... the FIOS is instant! The T-1 is pretty price competitive... Before the economic slowdown, the push was to move to an all fiber network across America, but that might be delayed by a few years now. FWIW, Carl B.

Alan: After all these years, I still find it very sad indeed that instead of offering additional information in a manor approaching common courtesy, or conducting additional discussion related to the overall context of the thread, you have to cloak everything in rude comments, snide remarks and personal attacks on my integrity. Perhaps even worse, after all these years, you have still failed to write and publish articles of your own, choosing instead to use your bits and pieces of information to demean others. I also find it sad that not only do you twist almost every discussion to a tangent about Japan, the models sold in Japan, or your limited ability to read/write Japanese; you twist anything written by people to an unintended meaning, with which you can take exception. I'd take you more seriously on this subject if your constantly expressed destain wasn't so boringly repeated. Carl B.

Hi Guys: We may have some confusion related to the application and meanings of some terms here. At least it seemed conflicted to me... maybe others/maybe not. "matching number car means".... is a little too general, because cars manufactured and sold in the US, past some date specified in U.S. law, DO have engine ID's matching the Chassis Numbers. Which explains why many people new to the Z Cars, can get confused about the term "matching number car". I think JimmyZ stated it correctly to begin with, "Z car engine numbers don't match the VIN". "as stamped on the VIN tag" - If a "tag" is a small metal strip affixed to the car, with the VIN stamped into it, then that might be the VIN tag fixed to the Dash on US/Canadian Z Cars. Not all Z's have a "VIN tag". As far as I know, all First Generation Z's have a Model Number Plate, found under the hood. The Model Number Plate has the VIN and original engine serial number stamped into it. The VIN contains both the Model Information and the chassis serial number. The VIN is stamped into the firewall. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Rob: That's your decision. Now print your words out in large print, past them up on your wall - so you can see them every day. If you do that, five years from now you'll understand why it was suggested. That might be your second mistake. As John/Wick and most of us wil tell you - NEVER throw out anything, until the car is completely DONE. Like John said, I have a hard time throwing anything out. If I don't need it later for another refresh/restoration, then it's a pattern or perhaps a picture that someone else will need. Perhaps two of the most critical attributes that are present in any successful project are determination and patience. Knowledge and experience will follow. For many of us, the pleasure in restoring a classic car is found in the process itself, far more than in having the car done. Stick to it as long as you enjoy the process. We all wish you the best of luck, and as eveyone has said we'll be more than glad to help. I hope your following this thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25483 FWIW, Carl B.

Great story Steve - keep it coming.... doglegs and corrosion holes on the rear threshold above the tail pipe is typical, even for almost rust free 240-Z's FWIW, Carl B.

Steve: Details, details - how many miles were on the car to start with? How many dollars is "low budget"? How much was the paint/body work? How many hours did you spend on the car? Was he missing the stainless around the hatch glass?.... The two pictures look like the car came out fine.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Rob: My best advice is - let your Grandfather keep the car. You save up about $6,000.00 to $8,000.00 in cash, then go buy the best condition 240-Z that you can find. That should be a car that is running fine and looking very presentable. Drive that one for a year, learn how to R&R all the small things, find out how much all the small things cost in terms of dollars and your time. While you are doing the above - save up another $10,000.00 before you start a restoration or refresh on your Grandfathers car. With $10K cash in hand, a garage large enough to work in and a far better basic knowledge of the 240-Z - - then start on Grandfather's 240-Z. If you start on that car now - it is very likely that three or four years from now - it will be an uncompleted project sold for pennies on the dollar, or sold off for parts. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Steve: Isn't it great to have someone to share your hobby with? Glliw: Is that a 69 Cougar Eliminator in the background of the picture of your Z? FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Bob: Sorry to hear your having too much fun with this.:stupid: If you attempt to set the engine up using the approach ozconnection outlined - I'd suggest that you remove the rocker arms before you crank the engine over, until the bright links on the chain align with all the other criteria. Just a little insurance that you do no harm, and it is easy to be link off, so you'll want to verify before you close everything up. But let's back up a bit - How many miles are on that engine? If the engine hasn't been rebuilt in the last 5 years or more - You may have an unexpected, perhaps unwelcome, opportunity to replace an aging front main seal, timing cover seal, replace the timing chain tensioner with one that will not pop out the next time, and perhaps replace well worn chain guides. How old is that water pump anyway? Removing the front cover does offer the possibility of twisting off more rusted bolts that run through the water pump.... on the other hand better to do it now, than later. I would guess that you removed, or had removed all the studs on the head while you were at it, and replaced them with new ones. 39 year old studs thermo cycled with engine temps, do suffer from metal fatigue, and their protective Cad. plating is usually gone as well. No sense twisting them off if you have to remove the manifolds at some point in the future. (pay attention to the lengths of the studs protruding from the head - as I recall there are a couple different lengths at different points) FWIW, Carl B.

You'll get to see it DougROFL FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Arne: I think it is valid to compare a #2 and #3 Condition car, because regardless of who buys them - everone seems to be interested in the selling prices of any/all 240-Z's. I was only trying to briefly address the reasons for the price gap when you jump from one level to the next. Well, if one had acted soon enough - maybe here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=274002&postcount=1 Don't we see cars like this in the $8K to $12K range quite often? At $20K (or even at $16K) wouldn't have #48 at $21K made a lot more sense? I think the real question is - do you pay $6K, $12K or $16K for a #3 car to drive. When you get up to $18K-$20K are you really wishing to have a Driver - or do you want to drive a show car. For $21K I'd have taken #48 every time. Everyone has to answer that for themselves I guess. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Stephan: That's OK - we don't have to agree. We can state our case and everyone can decide for themselves. then: I'm not sure at this point just what we disagree on. First you seem to be saying what without the SAP - it isn't a BPE. Which I disagree with, as do most owners on the Black Pearl Register. But then in your second Post you seem to now be saying that the term "Edition" or "Limited Edition" doesn't apply, because Nissan didn't call it a limited edition. Edition, limited or not - A Black Pearl 280Z doesn't need the SAP to be a Black Pearl. FWIW, Carl B.

Nissan not only built it - they charged extra for it, and they built a limited number of them. Each Authorized Dealer was supposed to get at least ONE. Black Pearl Edition - is really shorthand for Black Pearl Limited Edition. Did your Window Sticker list " Blue Metallic Paint" as an extra cost item Listed on the Window Sticker under the heading "Equipment and Accessories Installed by The Manufacturer"? Or like all the other colors that year, is it simply listed under "Color" at the left of the window sticker? Do you have a copy of the Dealer Sheet - introducing a special "Blue Metallic 280Z"? Did each Dealer receive only a very limited number of Blue Metallic 280Z's? As anyone can see from the Dealer Sheet you pictured - the Sports Appearance Package, was only available on the Black Pearl Metallic Paint - and it was an additional cost option over and above the Black Pearl Edition. It is not the SAP that makes the car a Black Pearl Edition - Paying for the extra cost Black Pearl Paint Job, and the limited number produced - made the Black Pearl 280Z a special Limited Edition, which was additionally eligible to be equipped with the SAP. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - if it has 638 paint code - it is a Black Pearl. The Racing Mirrors, Shade Kit and pin striping were part of the optional/additional Sports Appearance Package. FWIW, Carl B.