Carl Beck

That is correct - it is not that hard to do. In fact it's actually easy if every nut, bolt and stud on your engine is as new. The easy job can turn quickly into a real BEAR however, if/when you start twisting off 35+ year old bolts, studs that are rusted in half or head bolts that are frozen in the block. Professional mechanics deal with these situations all the time. They have the speciality tools needed to make the corrections. As a last resort they have friends at the machine shops.... Cylinder head R&R is not one of the things one would want to take on, as a first learning experience. Sometimes you get lucky.... most of the time not. I wouldn't discourage you from doing it yourself - but I'd sure recommend paying a professional to come to your house on the weekend and help, or teach you how. Second best thing is a friend that been through it a few times. They know when not to put too much pressure on the old nuts/bolts etc. If you are a beginner at major engine repairs - it can be very frustrating if/when things start to go wrong. FWIW, Carl B. BTW - if you have to take the head off anyway = just get a price for doing a fresh valve job. The labor cost will be about the same.. and you'll wind up getting far more for your money...

To my knowledge Nissan never offered a patch panel for the rear quarters. I would also seriously doubt you'll have much luck finding a dog leg on a parts car that isn't already eaten up by rust. They all seem to rust from the inside out, so by the time you cut one out of an existing car - you'll usually find a great deal of rust damage already done. Your body man seems to be very good - but I think he will find that the TABCO patch panels are about as good as he will find - short of hand hammering one himself. Of course you could always supply him with a NOS quarter panel - I think they sell for around $650.00 each now. He could cut the dog leg off that... FWIW, Carl B.

If you want to go to an aftermarket clutch - I'd recommend the ZOOM Clutch Kit from NAPA. (Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc), Order the kit for the 280Z/ZX I like the Nissan throw-out bearings. The ZOOM is a very good clutch - and a lot of money LESS than the OEM units. If you can't find a dealer that carries the ZOOM Clutch Kit - I'd pay the money and order the 280Z/ZX unit from the local Nissan Dealer. If the 5spd. is already in the car - then the current clutch fork is fine. When you get the ZOOM Pressure plate - just make sure it is the same height (thickness) as the one in the car now. Lay the Pressure Plates flat on the floor or work-bench - measure the height of the Pressure Plate fingers.... If the old and the new are the same (or very close to the same) - use the throw-out bearing collar that you have. If the ZOOM Pressure Plate is thinner... by say 1/4" - you will need the next longer throw-put bearing collar. The original 240-Z Pressure Plates are thicker than the newer and stronger 280Z/ZX units. So the original 240-Z throw-out bearing collars are shorter than the 280Z/ZX collars. With the 5spd in the car it is very likely the P.O. installed a newer 280Z/ZX unit anyway - and you should be fine. Just remove the current flywheel -check the ring gear teeth - and if they are good - have it resurfaced by a good machine shop. (a very important set in the process if you want a smooth clutch). FWIW, Carl B.

Can you actually see it coming out of the head gasket? There is a coolant line that runs around the back of the head to put water through the intake/carb's... and it might have a pin hole in it.. Rare to have a head gasket leak in that manor... Just a thought/question.. Carl B.

Reviewing - I think you are correct. My error, as I had spark plugs in mind from the discussion of the gap...Sorry for the confusion.. Carl B.

Hi Todd: Good for you!!! Take your time and restore/refresh that 240-Z right - the first time around. Best of luck - and I'm sure we will all be pulling for you... FWIW, Carl B.

If your engine is within factory spec's for tune (fuel/air, timing etc). If your ignition system is within factory spec.'s electrically - then you would see very little difference going to an electronic ignition or a full captive discharge system. The problem is - very few 30+ year old cars are running perfectly within all factory spec.'s. Valves leak a little, rings wear and engine oil gets diluted with gasoline. Compression goes down a few points.. a little current is lost in old wires, spark plugs begin to foul and at times misfire... The 280Z/ZX electronic ignition replaces the old mechanical points - this keeps the dwell within factory spec. and over time shows a significant improvement because it does not get out of spec. as quickly. As far as 0-60 times - a perfect original ignition ran once, will give all but the same performance as an electronic ignition. Run them both for 6K miles in day to day use - and the electronic ignition will win hands down. Captive Discharge is used to greatly increase the strength of the spark at the spark plug gap. This really does two things. 1) allows the use of far greater plug gaps for a "fatter" spark to ignite even a poor air/fuel ratio and 2) the larger gap is keep cleaner, with less resulting fouling. The bottom line is that both electronic ignition (either light or magnetic field triggered) and the CD systems really improve total performance of the ignition system over a far longer period of use. It is worth it? Depends on the use you put your car too. If you drive less than 3K miles per year, you might as well enjoy twiking the old mechanical points as part of the original Z experience. If you drive a Z daily and do more than say 10K miles per year, a full CD ignition system is most likely an enjoyable investment. FWIW, Carl B.

I thought resistor plugs were specified to redue radio noise. The voltage delivered to the plug is a function of the coil or CD unit. FWIW, Carl B.

Dependent on foreign oil???? Not to worry Bruce. That's just what we tell the suppliers in other countries because we don't want to tell them that we'd rather have their ground, air and environment spoiled than ours. Dependent on foreign oil???? That's just what we tell the boobs in America, because we don't want to tell them that the ruling class has decided to siphon off the extreme wealth of a massively productive society (ours) and send it to the poor Arab's and other third world countries. Lets face it - oil is all they have that is of any value and it's easy for us to all but steal it. Dependent on foreign oil???? That's just what we tell the boobs in other countries - the reality is that we have decided to use all their oil first and keep ours for the time that we either can't get theirs, or they have none left to sell. Dependent on foreign oil???? How can a country with the massive and untapped oil reserves we are sitting on really be "dependent" on foreign oil? The truth is we have simply made the decision not to use our oil at the present time. That might make us greedy, stupid, or simply suckers that let the government take 56% of every thing we earn - but it doesn't make us dependent. FWIW, Carl B.

You need at least 650 CCA - but 750 is better. Most of my Z's set for prolonged periods without use. That is actually the hardest service for a starting battery. I currently have an Optima in my White 72 - its been in there for about three years now. Love it, I don't have to worry about leaking acid and nothing cranks an L6 like it does. It can also set for months without being on a charger - and retain most of its cranking ability. I'm always amazed at it actually. The down side is: 1. you have to customize the battery tie down... it is not the standard size for the 240-Z. 2. it is relatively EXPENSIVE.... (but what the heck - you only buy one ever six or so years). 3. you can NOT QUICK charge it - so it is far better to have it on a Battery Minder if you don't use the car daily. I have a Firestone Forever battery in my Blue 72. Bought it for $49.00 in 1975 - and Firestone has been replacing it free of charge ever since. The last two lasted 6 years each when kept on a Battery-Minder. They were lasting 3 to 3.5 years when not maintained on the Battery-Minder. The latest replacement from Firestone is an Interstate. I had a problem with it however, the "handles" on the side, where a carry strap is supposed to go - were mounted high on the case. That prevented the stock battery tie down frame from sitting down on top of the battery as it should. No real problem, I just had to cut them off the case. If you use the stock battery tie-down frame - take it with you when you shop for a new battery to make sure it will fit properly.!!!! Additionally - I had custom battery cables made for the car about 10 years ago. So I could put the ground under the fender instead of the positive terminal. I also wanted far better cables and cable terminals. As I recall I used #4 or #2 stranded copper in a very high quality and flexible insulation, then put gold plated terminals on the them (at both ends). That eliminated all corrosion build up at the terminals - expensive but worth every cent. I highly recommend this approach... You also want to make sure that the body ground on the firewall, from the battery is fixed to clean bare metal. In the 240-Z's this is VERY IMPORTANT... If your car sits for prolonged periods without use (weeks at a time)... Get a good Battery-Tender/Battery-Minder and keep it hooked up. The car will start whenever you are ready and the battery will last about twice as long. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi John: I glass bead blast them... with a medium/fine bead. They usually come out of the blast cabinet looking pretty close to new. Mild bead blasting will usually remove most surface stains - - but you don't want to get carried away with the pressure. You also don't want to leave any media inside under the baffels etc. Finish off with a very light coat of "Dull Amuminum" paint - to retard oxidation and help prevent stains. FWIW, Carl B.

I wonder why? It that because of the differences in front end geometry? Or because the rotational mass of an in-line six is greater than that of an in-line four? Both of which want to continue in their present direction of travel? Or is it weight and wheel base related? Tell us more..... Carl B.

Hi Rolf: We would really need a Mechanical Engineer, with experience in this area to get factual information. Most certainly - Fastener selection is based on a number of criteria, but having the strength to do the job assigned, is most certainly one of the most important. Fasteners are designed to clamp something together. The loads or stresses that the assembly will have to bare, determine to a large extent the strength of the fastener required. For example, if the strength required equals one 10.9 grade bolt - the engineer might prefer to use two 8.8 grade bolts, because of common availability or cost considerations - if space allows two bolts, or if the load/stress is better distributed. If a 10.9 grade bolt is required - and if they are hard to find in your area - the best course of action is to order the bolt from the manufacturer (NISSAN OEM Parts). Agreed. That is a problem. 4, 7, 6/9 could well be a manufacturer (the consumer in this case) specific code. With very large consumers as found in the auto industry, it is not uncommon for the manufacturer to define their own unique set of standards. Usually one or two fastener suppliers will produce products to meet the consumers specifications. For example - "4" or "7" might refer to both the strength of the bolt, as well as any protective coatings and finishes applied - that Nissan specified at the time. We call it Shear - the shear strength of a bolt is usually some percentage of its minimum tensile strength. Keep in mind that when two parts are bolted together - the side loads are carried by, or distributed across the parts themselves. The bolt doesn't carry the entire load. (ME's jump in here... if my general comments are completely out bed. This is just my perceptions from working with ME's and reviewing FEM results/reports etc. ). I'm not sure I understand the question. Let's put it this way - the higher the tensile strength of the bolt, the more clamping force it can apply and hold. Higher clamping forces can sustain higher shear loads ( I would guess??). Interesting discussion - but as I said - we really need an M.E. with specific knowledge and experience in this area. FWIW, Carl B.

1973 FSM says 18 to 23 ft-lb I'd go with that... It can't be 50 ft-lb - lug nuts are 65 ft-lb on much larger studs... FWIW, Carl B.

No - aluminum will oxidize to a white power. Leave it what way??? Clean Aluminum or clean black???? Clean cast aluminum is stock. Has the valve cover been Black Anodized? Did buffing it result in semi-gloss black?? FWIW, Carl B.

Just swap the inspection lids for newer one's. You aren't keeping it stock anyway.. Carl B.

You just need a good used valve cover that hasn't been molested, previously primed/painted or badly stained. Shouldn't be that hard to find in California. Contact a few local Z Car Clubs and one should turn up. Used valve covers are $75.00 to $95.00 for the late 70/71 models ie. "NISSAN OHC". Expect to pay far more for the early 70's with the 2400 on them... around here they are now $150.00 and up.. Clean it up with a good detergent and then take it to be glass bead blasted. Check your local Yellow Pages for shops that do media blasting and call a few. It should come out looking pretty much like it did when originally cast. FWIW, Carl B.

This might help: http://euler9.tripod.com/bolt-database/22.html # ISO metric fastener material strength property classes (grades). As given in ISO 898-1, ISO metric fastener material property classes (grades) should be used. For example, fastener material ISO property class 5.8 means nominal (minimum) tensile ultimate strength 500 MPa and nominal (minimum) tensile yield strength 0.8 times tensile ultimate strength or 0.8(500) = 400 MPa. (In a few cases, the actual tensile ultimate strength may be approximately 20 MPa higher than nominal tensile ultimate strength indicated via the nominal property class code. Consult Table 10, below, for exact values.) Many anchor bolts (L, J, and U bolts, and threaded rod) are made from low carbon steel grades, such as ISO classes 4.6, 4.8, and 5.8. # See the bottom of the page for the table. FWIW, Carl B.

That "modification" would greatly reduce the volume of air in the passenger's cabin needing cooling, and thus greatly increase the effectiveness of A/C in a 240Z. It would also provide storage space more out of sight, although for smaller items. Not something I'd want, but it might have had a small market when produced decades ago. FWIW, Carl B.

Posted earlier here as well: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=277843&postcount=1 FWIW, Carl B.

Wonderful !! - thanks Dave.

Thanks George - I'd been looking for pictures of that pump and bracket for the past two days.. Knew I had them somewhere... but couldn't find them again... Anyone have pictures of the second type used on the late model 73 240-Z's and 260Z's? FWIW, Carl B.

A couple of people have contacted me on this since the E-Bay auction ended - so I thought I'd better update the listing. Rick's 260Z has found a new home... thanks to everyone for spreading the word... Carl B.

What is the dollar value of a "low price"? What is the dollar value of "high prices"? Carl B.

Arne: If the top of the hatch lid, lines up correctly with the roof line.... If the sides of the hatch lid line up evenly with the sides of the body.... Then that's about all you can accomplish with hinge adjustments. Once the above was done - Then a Body Man would: 1. Open the hatch, and place a block of wood under the lower right corner of the hatch lid, on the threshold plate. 2. Close the hatch lid down on the block of wood - then place his left hand on the lower left corner of the hatch lid - and push it down an inch or two with medium force. Using a sort of bouncing/rocking force... to spring it back into shape. This would raise the lower right side of the hatch - and maybe lower the left side a bit. Once the line at the bottom of the hatch lid is straight - you might have to adjust your hatch lid latch down a bit. After doing this - make sure that your hatch lid hinges did NOT move. Always very carefully open the hatch lid - while watching the hatch lid/roof interface!! THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT... FWIW, Carl B.