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There is also 100 and 102 RON

He lives in Germany, they have high octane fuel

Endurotec +060 Pistons Set Of 6 suits Nissan L26 | eBay You need at least change the piston's to higher quality ones, that raise your compression. A big cam and weber carb setup is a must if you want to have some power from it. You could also lighten the flywheel and some good headers are needed. Then offcourse the head..

Yes, I have an E31 if you want. It's ready to bolt on. It's not lying in my way though, was planning to use it as a spare part

differential insulator early one - Open Discussions - The Classic Zcar Club (classiczcars.com) I found a way to modify the later style mount to the early one, see the link above.

I meant the chevelle not the camaro.

sounds like a very good deal to me. They will have rust on the floorboards and the usual places, but not to bad looking at the pictures. Look at the driver side door tag so see the build date and if the engine and chassic number might match.

Yeah I agree with that. Massive inflation going on

Don't know what's going on but prices on muscle cars are going up insane to. Camaro and Chevelle's ss 454 almost not for the common man anymore.

Basically constant vacuum carbs are very easy, but if you are used to downdraft carbs like most US cars use, it can be confusing at first. The screw on the lower part is mixture control. The vacuum controls the fuel delivery. The choke pulls the venturi down ( same like putting the needle up ) and creates a richer mixture. Float bowl level has to be right offcourse and all the parts function correctly. Carbs can be synched by hand and view ( watch throttle valve opening ), but with an air flow synch tool is better and more accurate.

When I talk to older people here, they always confuse the 280zx with the 280, this might have something to do with it, or maybe not lol

lol. value will only go up in the long run..

oops 😄

Okay Okay...

Yes, so he did take effort to change the oil, but did not finish the car and drive it ? mmmm

That's odd, why would you do that ? Oil doesn't expire.. Anyhow the 350 mile looks correct looking at the other parts. If i would keep it myself, I would have the underside, wheel wells, and engine bay dry ice blasted, and preserved again with a 2k clear coat. Don't like that heavy tar undercoat they put on it and on all the parts. But maybe it's good for sale originality ?

This weekend worked on getting the AOD transmission back under the mustang. So far now it finally seems to hold the power. The only weak link still might be the direct clutch, will see if it holds. Dan ( From Silverfox Transmission ) said it could handle around 700hp so I should be fine. But you never know what it does under abuse... if that fails I could go to a 4R70w housing and use the Sonnax direct clutch kit, and put everything that's in the AOD now, also back in the 4R70W, then it would be a guaranteed 900HP proof transmission lol. The manual valvelbody takes time to get used to, because I need to shift it manually, but it's fun, finally getting the gears to not shift up, only when i want to. Also I got rid of the TV cable set up finally. -- The Z and the mustang will go into wintersleep this week. Will continue work in spring. The mustang needs the steering column out, because there is alot of slop in there still. I found the problem to be there ( I replaced everything else ). VID-20201004-WA0008.mp4

So, with the 240Z I had some problems with the differential mount that was fixed ( discussed in another topic ) modifying the later one to the early. The handbrake was also not releasing properly, so I took of the drums, and cleaned and lubed everything, works fine again. Just some regular service... Also 1 tire failed or something, I was barely able to drive it, when working on the diff, I decided to re-balance the wheels, then I found out, 1 tire in the back had completely failed, like an egg on it.. Replaced it, car drives smooth again. Will be going into wintersleep next month. Weather is starting to go bad, keep it out of the rain.

I did drove the 240Z yesterday and it works fine. No more clunk also. So if you early guys are looking for a solution to the NLA < 71.8 insulator mount here is the solution in this topic, you can modifiy the 71.8> to work.

Yeah, basically what you did is go for the 71.8 > spec and add the RT mount. I wanted to keep it as original as possible myself.

Well it's the same dimensions as the old one only a newer material and toothed So it should work Just fine ? I ordered it from the z store...

Thanks. Yeah it works fine now. Took some modifications. So it can be done without going with all the hassle of changing the mustache bar etc etc to the later 72 spec

See my pictures above. You cannot twist the later mount 180. Because it does not line up if you look closely at the picture. And it's also at an angle.

It's in, I did have to shave some more metal of the inside to fit the bolts through and the nut on top like the manual shows. So it's possible to make the 72 mount to fit like the early one..

We did some brainstorming, including heaving the early one remolded, but that would be way to expensive, they will only do it from at least a 1000 pieces. So I decided to modify the later one, back to the early one. I think it worked out. I will test it to make sure, just waiting for the strap to come in first. I cut the purple, and added to red, so the " slope " is the same, and the holes are on the same spot as the early one. With the purple cut out, you can now put the M12 nut under there. I could not just simply twist the mount 180 because that would change the angle.. so this was the only way. Welded the mount with the rubber part of it submerged in some water, so it wouldn't melt..