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Well it's the same dimensions as the old one only a newer material and toothed So it should work Just fine ? I ordered it from the z store...

Thanks. Yeah it works fine now. Took some modifications. So it can be done without going with all the hassle of changing the mustache bar etc etc to the later 72 spec

See my pictures above. You cannot twist the later mount 180. Because it does not line up if you look closely at the picture. And it's also at an angle.

It's in, I did have to shave some more metal of the inside to fit the bolts through and the nut on top like the manual shows. So it's possible to make the 72 mount to fit like the early one..

We did some brainstorming, including heaving the early one remolded, but that would be way to expensive, they will only do it from at least a 1000 pieces. So I decided to modify the later one, back to the early one. I think it worked out. I will test it to make sure, just waiting for the strap to come in first. I cut the purple, and added to red, so the " slope " is the same, and the holes are on the same spot as the early one. With the purple cut out, you can now put the M12 nut under there. I could not just simply twist the mount 180 because that would change the angle.. so this was the only way. Welded the mount with the rubber part of it submerged in some water, so it wouldn't melt..

Yes.. The later diff was placed back due to vibrations problems, as I read. So if you look at below picture you can clearly see the later mount holes showing that, If I have them placed correctly now, which I assume. If not somebody correct me.

My later type is showing part no 55415-N4301 20/08/18

Are you sure, because my early one, the front of the car is as I pointed in my picture above with the arrow. This drawing also shows that. So with the later one, which side is pointed towards the FRONT of the car ?

So above the black one is the later 72 model, the blasted one the early one. Anyone knows which side of the later mount is towards the front of the car ?

I will let it know here if it works.

I ordered a new strap with the later 72 and up mount. Will see if I can modify it to fit like the early one

Looks like it only needs the new rails on the right side ( engine Bay and floor) and some battery tray area new sheet metal. But don't be fooled. There Will be a lot of work on the car. Everything is 50 years old..

I was hoping someone might have one left here as a spare or something willing to sell? Really want to keep it original with a new strap. At least the straps are still sold.. I now welded the old mount together but this will give vibrations. It's just temporary to keep the diff nose in place. If I can't find the early mount then i will have to look for a solution to insulate the early type mount another way. ?

Anyone know where to get one ? https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22d04/10-2251 the early one not the later 72 and up

Ah you mean the splash pan ? M5 could be yes. I thought you meant the radiator

M8? you have a picture

Looks like a 350 mile Z to me. Never knew they came with such a heavy rough black undercoating ? You have the picture of the barn find. Just have it cleaned professionally, give it a good tune up and put it on barret jackson or something lol. Worth big bucks for collectors

Yesterday I went to Mart to look @ the 280ZX. He let me drive it a bit, thanks Mart ? He has some things left to do, but overall it drives really nice ! Restoration looks really nice.

Looks great Mart, I will see it in person later on. I always wax and do the chrome once a year also, but didn't have the chance to do it this year so far, weather has not been steady. But w'll see.. I like the 280ZX.. it's got that's 80's feel and look to it.

I still had to replace the steering box on the mustang, so finished this last couple of days. In an earlier stage I allready replaced the rest of the steering assembly. I thought this would solve the left to right play in the steering wheel from inside the car, now everything is replaced but it is still there, maybe I need to adjust something, somewhere, I did email the guy who sold it to me, so waiting for his reply/advice. Now wait for the transmission to be back early september

Holy moly. That's some project you have there. Good luck ! Nice to read your story. Roll it out first and pressure wash it, get ALL the dirt of first, also the underside of the car and engine bay. A few basic steps ( to start it and see how it runs ) to do are: wheel bearing ( inspect them and grease them or replace them ). BRAKES new batteru=y Replace the rubber fuel lines, and flush the lines and TANK, replace fuel filter. Check mechanical fuel pump for operation and leaks. take carbs of and clean them check state of ignition and put some new plugs. put clean NON ethanol gas she should start up if valve clearances are good * you could always check them with the engine tune up

Here's a picture of the Mustang before I took the transmission out..

Did put some new breaker points into the Z after 6k miles on the rebuild yesterday. Currently I'm busy with the AOD from the Mustang, it's a PAIN IN THE arse to build a proper high performance AOD I can tell you.. Took my 3 years to finally found what was necessary, I eventually got the parts from Silverfox Transmissions and it's currently at a local shop here. 8 out of 10 shops only know basic stuff and basic rebuilds, when it comes to high performance it's a whole different ball game. The guy from the shop here also adviced to update the forward and direct drums to the SONNAX type ( because the stock stamped steels are prone to failure and have weak points ), but currently I'm having a tech conversation about that with SilverFox and Sonnax, and will know next week what to do. Basically the stock AOD is a trans only used for low HP and torque applications. It's 2 piece input shaft design, and lockup converter and valve body are worthless even with a shift kit when it comes to higher hp.. BUT they can be build up to 1200 hp. Now i've updated the converter to a non lockup custom billet ( with reinforced pilot ), ONE piece input shaft, and a manual valve body ( which cures the pressure problems ). Internals are upgraded to later AODE/4R70W parts with Raybestos bleu plates and all the other little parts that are upgraded to. Silverfox claims this is good up to 700hp and 750TQ, but the local builder here questioned the drums, so I will look into that a little more, just want to be sure. I'd rather have an overkill build, than having to remove it AGAIN.

I don't think it's to hard after all but all the parts need to be in OEM condition. I found out my hinges where worn, that was basicall the problem the hood did NOT align properly. If you have a play there, all the other alignments are also out of specs automatically

Mart post us the pictures of the finished ZX here , I'm sure people are willing to see the pictures ?