texasz

I have a set of Iron Cross wheels for sale. Here's the thread in the For Sale forum: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11001

Anyone know the weight of a dished mag (the ones in my avitar, or on my car in my gallery)? All the ones in my garage have tires mounted on them.

I have just finished sorting through a TON of Z stuff I got from a member on one of the forums I'm a member of and have decided that there's so much good stuff there I'd share it with this Z community. What's there you as? There are tons of pix, some video clips, and lots of info in the form of copied webpages scans of manuals and scans of Z car ads from days gone by. There's just SO much there you'll :surprised If you have something you'd like to contribute please email or PM me; or you can reply to this thread. I'm not going to start hosting everyone's pix or video clips but if you have something of interest I'll gladly add it to my library thus making it available to all. It's not a pretty page, just a directory listing of what I have. Here's the link to My Z Archive/Library Please feel free to copy/download anything you want. I do not claim credit for anything I have acquired nor do I claim to have verified it's accuracy. ENJOY!!!

Ok, I pulled the hatch and did the otter hatch seal. MUCH easier with the hatch off!! My question now is that while I am at this I decided to pull the inner hatch seal also and replace it. The problem is that the inner seal was glued on and much of it did not peal off so now I'm faced with trying to find a way to remove the remaining pieces. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for this? I really MUST have this completed today so that it can dry overnight and I can reassemble the hatch tomorrow.

From what everyone here said when I was doing mine Spicer are the way to go...so I did. I only did mine a couple months ago so I can't tell you from personal experience. I'm sure many others here can though.

I have just finished sorting through a TON of Z stuff I got from someone on one of the boards I'm a member of and there is some Scarab info in there including some pix. Please feel free to look around at it and download what you want, here's the link (just scroll down to the Scarab directory): http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/ This is not a pretty page, it's just a directory listing but there's a lot of good info, pix, and videos there.

Order them from MSA, you can get a 'stock' replacement for cheap or the race quality ones made by Spicer for a bit more.

With new tires? Yes! That's a very fair price. I have seen the slot mags sell for $100 w/o tires and inexpensive tires would run you about $45/each.

I also forgot to ask if you remove the hatch from the hinges or the hinges from the chassis?

Ok, so removing the hatch is easy enough. How hard is it to put back on? I'm thinking of the re-alignment mainly. Is there an easy way to go about this or not really?

Ok, I hate to post this because everyone will laugh and think I'm stupid (and believe me I feel like it) but I also want to try and help anyone else down the road. I pulled the starter the other night and took it to be tested...it was good. I watched them hook it up and there were three wires, the + and - battery and another small one that went on a quick connector. We talked about what else the problem may be and they said it may be the ignition switch (not what the key goes into but there's a switch behind it on the steering column). I came home and put the starter back in and realized that as I reconnected the wires I didn't remember removing the small one that goes on the quick connector. After I had it in I decided to try to start it again...wouldn't you know it, the damn thing started! What was wrong you ask? I had the + and- wires but somehow the quick connect wire must have been pulled off (it was VERY loose when I put it back on so I fixed that). Problem solved!! Now you can see why I feel so stupid. :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: I hope this helps someone else down the road someday.

Here's some really nice looking wheels made by OZ. I'd love a pair of these! http://www.zdriver.com/showthread.php?t=8670

I was looking at this last night and realized that I may have to remove the hatch from the hinges to get it installed properly. Is this correct!? I'd rather not have to unless it is necessary to do the job right. Has anyone done this without removing the hatch? If so do you have any tips/tricks to getting the seal behind the hinge and seated properly? As a side note question, am I correct in assuming that I must install the seal using that tube of sealant/adhesive that came with my rubber seal kit?

That would be FANTASTIC!! What a great idea! I'm looking forward to seeing this as I'm sure many others are.

UPDATE: Ok, I took the battery in to be tested and it tested out ok and took a charge at the shop. Came home, cleaned up the battery posts, cables etc and tried again. I get one click when I turn the key and nothing else! The battery gauge in the dash reads good and strong, but everytime I tried the key all I got was one click. Any more ideas???

I tried starting my car a week ago and the battery was not so good so I hooked it up to my truck to jump it...however I never did get it to turn over. But it was acting correct when trying to start. I just tried again yesterday after replacing the plugs and having it on a charger 1/2 the day then switching the charger over from charge mode to start mode (a 50 amp output). All I got was a clicking noise. NO attempt to turn over on the car's part at all. I once knew what this problem was several years ago but now I can't remember. Can anyone out there help be diagnose this problem so I can get it fixed ASAP. I have a few other things to do to it before a car show on 3/20 and don't have much time to do it all.

I found a thread that gave this information What I need to know is I have a stock L24 with an E31 head. I have blow-by on cyl 5, and my compression is as follows from cyl 1 to 6: 120, 120, 120, 120, 40, 120. My rear carb will not tune quite right, it runs rich all the time (probably needs rebuilt) but the front carb is in good tune. I just need a 'short term' solution here since I'll be replacing the engine this year (I hope). What plug would be best for my car? The plugs always seem to foul so I will end up replacing them on a regular basis after doing some driving then letting it sit for a while, or doing a lot of driving. So really expensive plugs, like $8/each, are a bad choice unless they will not foul (yeah, right). Any help on this would be great!! Thanx guys & gals!! :classic:

On your post look under your name, click the My Gallery link. Then on the page that loads on the right side of the screen just above the green area there is a link, Upload Photos, click it and follow along from there.

Ahhhhaaaa!!!! I have been using http://www.hybridz.org to try and access their site. So what we have here is a DNS problem. As always, thank you 2many! EDIT I jsut tried the link above and that didn't work but the URL I listed does now.

I like the Velo Rosa kit, some day I hope to build one. But the car you have posted a link to is just plain FUGLY!! :sick: :sick: :sick:

I can't access it from home or work and I can assure you that I have no viruses at home nor work (IBM). I have not been able to access the site since Saturday when the message said the site was down, all I get is a 'can't find site' error message.

Did you know that there are a couple clubs in AR? I don't know if they are close to you or not but if you go to http://www.zcca.org/ and click the AR link at the very bottom it will show the info for the two AR clubs registered with ZCCA.

I'm glad someone else asked I saw on Sat that the site was temoprarily down but yesterday and today I get a 404 error (Can Not Locate Server).

Take a look at my site for a few Scarab pix. I could try and contact the owner, he lives here in town and I think he's a member of the local Z club.

So it sounds like an L28 with a 10:1 CR would be ok with a stock starter. Right? The engine will be an F54 block, NO boring over, flat top pistons and a stock N42 head.