texasz

In 11/2022 I paid $191.11 to have "steam clean, chemical flush out, repair, and test radiator" completed. This came with a 90 day warranty. In 02/2021 I paid $469.39 to have the fuel tank 'interior and exterior tank coating, remove dried fuel or tar, rust and corrosion repair" completed (Tank Renu products used). This work comes with a lifetime warranty.

I sent both my radiator and my fuel tank to these guys to be refurbished. Both installed on the car and functioning just fine...radiator even in 105* Texas temps. :) Hart Radiator Service 20123 FM 362 N. Waller, Texas 77484 (936) 372-9107 Don Hart Betty Hart http://www.donhart.com

Apologies for not being more clear (in my head it was though obviously it did not come across that way). I want to remove mine, send them out, have them rebuilt and returned to me, I will then reinstall them. That is what I meant when asking who rebuilds them...that is the piece I'm in search of.

Several months ago I found a place or talked to someone that could rebuild the 240Z heater core and also the blower. I cannot for the life of me find this information again. :( Does anyone here know the company/person I'm talking about? I'm thinking that this may be my next project to tackle.

That would be great!

Balance tube type does not matter much as it will be sent to ZTherapy to be "cleaned up" so any extra ports would end up getting sealed off any how.

Funny thing is that I was coming here to post the same thing and was thinking that you would be one of the first to say that you had it. I'm looking for the N36 intake and a balance tube if you or anyone else has this please let me know.

@jfa.series1 Looks like it's been a week and nobody has claimed anything. I've got a bare shell that will need everything to put it back together. I'd be willing to take these items: WIPER MOTOR BAG WINDOW REGULATOR - RH SEAT RAILS - L/R WIPER ARMS - L/R, SPLINES VISIBLE TWO SETS OF TAIL LIGHTS DUCTING PRP WEATHERSTRIP - P/N VISIBLE DOOR/HATCH HARDWARE PROTHANE BUSHINGS SPARE TIRE HOLD DOWN DOOR PARTS PROPORTIONING VALVE LOCKS STRUT CAPS & GROMMETS ALTERNATOR BRACKET MIRROR LIGHTER REOSTAT BLOWER SWITCH HORN PAD WASHER MOTOR DOOR HANDLE A-PILLAR SWITCH - GOOD SPRING

Quick question...does it matter where I connect the distributor vacuum advance hose, to the location marked in red or the one marked in yellow? Will there be a difference in performance or quality of function either way?

That last link is to the same tool as the second link rather than the set you intended to link.

To recap...I was looking for suggestions on replacement horns for now until I get around to rebuilding the original ones. I ended up buying and installing these from Z Car Depot: https://zcardepot.com/products/horn-set-hi-lo-240z-260z-280z-510?variant=50610208964920&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google%2Bshopping&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17820837536&gbraid=0AAAAADgHqXssZ64ffuRLMdHFQA1WVqNee&gclid=CjwKCAiA86_JBhAIEiwA4i9Ju_aM-ViE06tUtzcGp1fUrYiM7OyJd_3WeMCCfgkuDa7cRHrPUPNNsBoCRM4QAvD_BwE They do the trick. Not sure when I'll get around to diving into rebuilding the original ones, though for now I can still drive around and let people know I there. :)

What I have...the red/blue are flat head, the blue/clear are philips, and the black/clear are torx. This seems to be the standard from what I've seen in stores for decades. Maybe some older tools were different.

I found the post where I was experiencing this issue. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63969-which-oil-pan-will-fit/?&_rid=2593#findComment-665907

Ok, I got the race-sport header and can confirm that it will not clear the oil pan with the heatshield. I of course learned this after the engine was in the car and was not about to remove it so I rolled up under the car with a Dremel and cutting wheel to cut the heatshield off. Once that was done the header fit just fine. Hope this helps keep you from being covered in sparks cutting the heat shield off after installation like I was. :)

Which ZStory header are you getting?

My horns are not working, I've checked and get power to both so I'm guessing it's the horns themselves. I am thinking I'll replace them and take my time taking them apart to fix when I get around to it. So today's question is what do people suggest? I found this set that seems like a good option: https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/electrical/hella-supertone-horn-kit-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-fairlady-z I know that the red will stand out, i could always paint them black.

I suppose it could also be bedliner.

That is NOT factory. It looks painted or perhaps sprayed on...and appears thick in some locations. Very difficult to tell what it may be from the picture so this is a big huge wild guess...I'd say it is rust inhibitor of some sort (think POR15, Rustoleum, etc.) and if that is the case you no doubt have rust under it.

Here's one I do not recall seeing posted yet. https://www.hagerty.com/marketplace/auction/1970-datsun-240z/6GCpSGa9ml7BRIZZCDBmQ3

That crack is original, not aftermarket. lol

Thank you for bringing this up and providing this detail. It reminded me to look at what I put on my car because I was wondering why my speedo was off. I have 185/65/14, and now I know why my speedo is inaccurate. :D

Mine came from this eBay seller: https://www.ebay.com/str/datsun240zrestorationinfo I bought mine in March of 2021.

I had a similar experience with some repop braided hoses in that the braided sleeve was very difficult to keep in place while working the clamps...then as a result some started to fray.

This should probably be in the carb discussion section rather than electronics.

I've been considering one of these https://elementfire.com/collections/allproducts?srsltid=AfmBOop1i3bQdDrnL5UNuRlAc9IKXHMnzZQNFkACtpUP9xFyZ-Q8Bepe I'm looking at the larger one, the E100, as it has double the 'run time'.