MikeW

Could be a warped flywheel. As you attempt to engage the clutch there are high spots that grab first and then let go. Once the clutch is fully engaged the problem goes away.

We don't see very many G-nose cars here in the states. In fact, I've personally only seen one before (and a nice one at that), but it wasn't in this country. Here's a photograph I took of it ...

Welcome. Wow, we all knew these cars rusted but I'm surprised yours only lasted a few years. You've been in Indiana all this time? How many miles did you put on it? I suspect you're one of very few original owner, low mileage cars. I'm curious about which parts you bought in 1976 and which parts you wish you had bought. There's obviously a lot of stuff no longer available that you could have gotten back then just by walking into any dealer. When I bought my car used in 1985 I remember going into the local Nissan dealership and buying the molded, braided hose that goes to the thermostat housing because that was the only place to get one. At least they actually had some. Upper and lower radiator hoses would have just been purchased at the local parts place which would have been more reasonable. Had I known then what I know now I would have stocked up on a lot of stuff.

Wow. I thought your avatar was #27. Is #27 actually more roadworthy than #26 at this point?

This is a common problem that's easy to fix. Either the float is stuck in the down position or the needle valve that the float opens and closes is stuck. Sometimes rapping on the float bowl cover will unstick it but you can also just remove the 4 screws that hold the cover on, remove the cover, and figure out what the problem is.

The best fix would be to remove all of the bondo and straighten out the metal itself.

You just have to know what to search for: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8724

From where on the transmission is it leaking? There isn't supposed to be any coolant in the transmission ...

We talked about the difficulty here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14225 Specifically, here was my solution: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=96930&postcount=28

You can get a used hatch for $75 plus shipping: http://www.datsunzparts.com/bodyparts.htm

Perhaps you could make your own. Buy a proper sized bolt for the knob of your choice and then drill and tap the proper sized hole for the gearshift lever.

From the picture it appears that they are from ITG. http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PFFC09

It might make sense to have a cheap spare that you can bolt on while yours is being properly rebuilt so you're not out of transportation. Here's one from member TexasZ that's going to end soon: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4510392761&category=34208

I remember doing mine without dropping the tank but it was not easy.

Interesting. I wonder why they use superchargers then? It must not work the same way that we're used to.

Yes, you need to remove the front cover. The reason you need to remove the front cover is that the timing chain tensioner has already popped out of place since you let the chain go.

http://www.theregister.co.uk/2004/09/30/kimble_rally/

Nope. Not that I can think of. Only higher voltage would burn out the bulb. Think about a flash light with weak (low voltage) batteries. It would be very dim. Too much voltage would make the flashlight bright and would burn out the bulb. I suppose if your alternator were putting out too much voltage or the voltage regulator wasn't working right you could burn out the bulbs but nothing in the wiring itself could cause this. That happened because the braided S/S clutch hose had little resistance. There would be next to no resistance from the battery through the cable down to the starter solenoid and if that cable instead touched the clutch hose a lot of amperage would flow through the clutch hose (trying to find the least resistance to ground) and it would burn it up the hose.

No, in this case the bulb would be limiting the current flow and the fan wouldn't even begin to run. So little current would be flowing that the fan would be the equivalent of a straight wire. The bulb would still light up just fine ...

Because the fuse has less resistance than the bulb. A fuse will allow enough amperage to flow to melt the fuse. A fuse is always wired in series with something else that has greater resistance than the fuse itself: headlights, the blower motor, etc. If a short circuit occurs between the fuse and the device it's protecting the resistance will be gone so more amperage will flow and the fuse will blow - thus protecting your wiring. If there was no fuse enough amperage would flow to melt the wire at the point of its greatest resistance, perhaps at a connector somewhere in the harness. In my case, with the jumper cable, the point of greatest resistance was where the clamp brushed the terminal so that's where things started to melt.

You can't run excessive amperage through a bulb. That was my point and the reason I gave the example of hooking a bulb directly to your battery. To demonstrate, I just ran the red side of a jumper cable to one post on the battery and hooked the other red side to a 3W instrument panel bulb. Finally I touched the base of the bulb to the other battery post. Don't try this at home, kids. A slight slip and I'd have had an extreme amount of amperage flowing. In fact, I did slip briefly and created a nice little pit in the battery post cable; you can see it in the attached picture.

What's the VIN?