MikeW

The problem is that over time water can build up in the brake fluid and that can cause rust.

If pumping it three times makes it stop then I'd say you've got more bleeding to do. As Will said, even without the booster the brakes should still work. You can verify this by removing the vacuum hose from the booster. You loose the power assist but you can still brake the car.

No but he does say right front door in a couple of places ...

That's the best way to do it. You don't want to have to pay a lot and getting a big refund is not so great either. By the way, if you are entitled to a refund the government doesn't care one bit about filing your taxes by the deadline. You won't be penalized for filing late. Keep that in mind if you find yourself driving to a late night post office on the day of the deadline.

Getting a refund simply means that you had more withheld throughout the year than was needed to meet your tax obligation. You let the government hold onto your money and then they pay you back, without interest, after you file your taxes. If it would make you feel better, you could give me, say, $100 a month and I could then "refund" it to you come April.

Motorsport Auto is once place that carries them: http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=SIC I don't know about shipping to Sweden; there may well be another source closer to you. Edit: sorry, I was referring just to the interior rivets that started this thread. If you're interested in lenses and plastic panels there are other sources.

The "spec" sheet claims 730 HP: http://www.lateral-g.org/sandlin/Inciner8orSpecs.pdf

Will didn't have a target on him when we got together last August. That may have changed since. I had a camera at the time but failed to take advantage of the opportunity.

His public profile indicates that he was last here today. Perhaps he was just trying to get a reaction out of people since there has been no response.

Just go up a level to read all about it and see more pictures: http://www.lateral-g.org/sandlin/

You're right. I think they're officially called "skins". It looks like you can also change the skin at the very bottom of your control panel options.

On the very bottom left of some pages is a combo box that defaults to "-- vbPortal Demo". You can change themes there.

Each carb has a separate bowl that contains a float. The purpose of this is to regulate the amount of fuel available to the carb. When the bowl fills up the float raises and pushes on a needle valve that shuts off the fuel flow. As the carb consumes fuel the float goes back down which in turn lets in more fuel. What happens sometimes is that needle valve gets stuck open, usually due to debris in the fuel. Even though the float is trying to close the valve it stays open. There are actually hoses from the top of each float bowl that go straight to the air cleaner as a way of handling this accidental overflow but if float bowl lid gaskets are not good fuel will leak out there. When you step on the gas the carb consumes fuel which in turn lowers the level and stops the leak temporarily. It's fairly simple to remove the lid from the float bowl to diagnose and fix the problem.

On the front right hand side of the engine. On a 240Z it's mechanical, not electric.

I don't know if this is still the case but it used to be that in Florida vehicles were taxed based on how heavy they were. The reasoning here was that heavier vechicles like trucks caused proportionately higher wear and tear on the roads and other infrustructure.

Why are so many people from Georgia replying to this? We have some of the lowest gas taxes in the country and therefore the about the lowest overall prices.

You have to adjust the uni-syn by turning the center wheel thing. This controls how much air flows through the device versus how much air is forced to come through the tiny hole which gets its air through the tube with the red float. As I recall the more the main air hole is blocked the more air comes through the tube and therefore forces the red float up. Keep in mind that the calibration marks really mean nothing. The entire purpose of this tool is to simply get the two carbs balanced. As long as the float is not resting at the bottom or floating all the way to the top you just want to adjust each carb so that the float is in the same relative place. Another key to using it is to not hold it over the carb for very long. You just move the uni-syn into place long enough for the red float to move to a certain position but not long enough for the reduced airflow to have a noticeable effect on the engine.

Hey, don't feel bad. My daily driver is a 1990 240SX (Sylvia as it relates to the rest of this thread) without power windows. A/C is, of course, mandatory here in the Atlanta area.

This got me curious so I did a quick web search: First power windows in a car: 1946 Automotive air conditioning: 1939 http://www.sae.org/sae100/history/timeline/timeline.htm

Be aware that this site is dedicated to the earlier S30 1970-1978 240/260/280Z. The S130 280ZX does share the same basic engine but other than that no parts are interchangeable with the earlier models.

Looks like it went for $305. I guess I need to just start buying this stuff as an investment even if I don't plan to put it on my car.

Hey, that is funny. I do notice that the seller is in Arkansas ...

It actually is Weird Al. I was thrown off at first as well since the web page didn't identify it.

It's almost certainly oil which, as you know, can range from an almost clear honey color to virtually black depending on how fresh it is. I'd have to guess that the plug simply wasn't in tight enough and that there's not some catastrophic failure in that cylinder.

I don't know how long this link will last. It's probably not legal and is probably getting a lot of views. For those of you who use eBay a lot this really hits home ... (Requires Flash) http://www.geoffellis.com/ebay.html