MikeW

Yes, Wheldon is a Brit. Actually, he was born there but currently lives in St. Petersburg, Florida. It should also be noted that Danica was racing in the UK when Bobby Rahal spotted her and immediately signed her up. I can understand the frustration with the media hype. She's quite a novelty and the media likes anything sensational. If nothing else she will bring more fans to racing (of all sorts) which means more corporate sponsorships which means more money for racing.

I've noticed that before. I think it belongs to "Scottie", the blond welder. The reason I say this is that they actually used the car in another episode. It was the show where they wanted to see if a toy car rolling down a hill would be faster than a real car. In order to test the theoretical speed limit of the toy car they actually jacked up the 280Z and held the toy car on top of the rear tire letting it roll along as the tire spun. Scottie was behind the wheel and got it up to 60mph or so.

Was it running properly before replacing the cap? Could it be 180 degrees off? Are you sure you replaced the wires properly?

Are you sure the timing is right? It sounds like you're getting spark but at the wrong time.

You could always do what I did: remove the entire dash from the car, remove the dash pad from the dash and ship it off, and then re-install the dash - minus the pad - back in the car. Also, since the VIN plate is attached to the dash itself and not the pad you may be able to get your spare dash pad restored and then mount it to your current dash. Hopefully the two frames are close enough that the screw holes will all line up. As far as changing the plate goes I can't imagine that anyone would have a problem with that - as long as the VIN does match the car itself.

The oil in the carbs has little to do with the fact that you're having trouble getting the engine running. The oil simply acts as a dampener that affects the rate in which the throttle opens and closes. The weight of oil is not critical. Many people use ATF. I use 20W oil that you can buy in a little blue and white can labeled 3-in-1 oil. http://www.wd40.com/PressRoom/StockImages/gifs_xl/3in1-p_3oz_motoroil.gif As far as getting things running I'd first make sure you're actually getting fuel into the carbs. You might consider spraying some starting fluid into the carbs to get things going. If it runs a little and then knocks off you know you're not getting fuel. If it won't run at all with starting fluid then you're not getting spark. Your best bet is to just search this site for information. Many people have come before you and asked similar questions. The best tool for syncing the carbs is called a Unisyn: http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=60-9965&Category_Code=TE

The alternator output should be about 14 volts. Anything above that risks damaging your battery. It sounds like you need a new voltage regulator.

I've never used one but have you considered one of the do-it-yourself kits? I wouldn't be surprised if the repair shop used the same stuff. http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/html/ccr/ccr20021201wc.html#

Yes. The interior light is only operated by the driver and passenger door as well as by pushing on the light itself. Be aware that it's also not a smart system like modern cars where the light times out after a while. If you turn the light on by pushing on it or if you leave the door open overnight you'll run your battery down.

Do you grid flat spots on these bolts to make removal easier? Otherwise you'd have to use vise grips on the threads themselves ...

My understanding is that the #112 yellow was introduced for the 1972 model year - which Patrick's car is - at which point the #919 yellow was dropped.

You may be able to get useful information from previously archived versions of their web page via http://web.archive.org/web/ Here's a direct link: http://web.archive.org/web/*/http://www.jskinnovations.com

You're probably right - provided that your fusebox doesn't melt since you're now pumping about twice the wattage as stock (which is 40 watts on low and 55 on high if I recall correctly). Since installing Dave's upgrade harness I switched the stock 20A headlight fuses to 2A fuses. Seriously, feel how hot your fusebox is getting with these new headlights.

It can also happen at night because artificial lighting is based on 60Hz AC current. Lights actually flicker on and off 60 times a second which is too fast for you to notice because of persistence of vision. However, when something like a wheel is spinning at speed this flicker produces a strobe effect.

I would imagine that the wiring would be easier if you dropped in the engine out of a 350Z at the same time which is what appears to have happened in this particular case.

All you would need is a whole lot of time, money, and experience although you could get by with just a whole lot of money if you prefer to not do the work yourself.

I have heard of people adding a rigid strip along the bottom. I don't know how bad the problem really is as I've never had an opportunity to watch it at high speeds. As far as paint goes, I know that my painter used a flex additive when he spayed the air dam.

I have the urethane version but I've heard people complain that it deforms too much at speed. Screwing up the paint will happen with any air dam. With fiberglass you have to worry about damaging the air dam itself, not just the paint.

I concur with Marty's advice regarding SEM products but I also note that SEM offers a "SEM Soap" and a "Vinyl Prep" which is what they recommend.

Be aware that the stock wiring in a 240Z is barely adequate for the stock headlight wattage. You should definitely consider adding relays to your system if going with higher wattage lights. One of our fellow members made an excellent relay upgrade harness that plugs right in using the existing connectors. No wire cutting is required. It's well worth it. I hope Dave still is making them: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14897

Just turn the wheels all the way in each direction. It's very easy to remove the headlight assembly through the wheel well. It's only three screws per side.

How do you plan on making those fit on a 240Z? They don't appear to be available in the correct bolt pattern or offset.

I've never heard of paint containing lead being used on cars. It was used in houses because the lead in the paint helped prevent mildew and algae but was banned in the late 70's. The emblems should pry up using a wide flat blade. While some people have had success painting the white and black portions of the emblems the "chrome" part is not so easy since it's on plastic (at least for some of the emblems). You can still buy new emblems which may be better in the long run.

That big rear bumper is really shiny. Notice how well the license place reflects in it.

Unless you run into a sharp curb or some other avoidable obstacle most typical flats are caused by picking up a nail and could be fixed with a can of fix-a-flat (hopefully a non-flammable variety). I can see you being worried about the weight of a spare while racing but I don't see what space savings you'll achieve unless you plan on putting something else in the spare tire well.