MikeW

You can redo the originals yourself for a lot less (new covers, new foam, new webbing). I can't answer the mechanical problem you're having but the mechanism is fairly simple and you could even move the hardware from an otherwise trashed original seat. While I used covers from another source many people feel that these are the closest to original: http://www.classicdatsun.com/new/240_interior.html You'll note that seat covers here are $210 for a pair and the foam is $100 for each seat. $410 plus a few hours of your time is way less than the $1200 that you're looking at.

I was thinking the same thing. They must have done a lot of work to make it look like a 240Z.

Yes, but as I mentioned earlier you need the pockets in the floorboard for the retractors. These first showed up around 9/71 even though the retracting seatbelts came later. Since your car is a '71 you're probably out of luck.

I think that all Z cars came with shoulder belts. You should have the attachment point up high in the quarter window trim panel. If your lap belts are original you can kind of twist the webbing on the male portion of the seat belt latch and you'll notice a hole where the shoulder belt portion attaches. When I bought my car in 1985 there were no seatbelts so I had to add some aftermarket lap belts.

Interesting. I'll have to go look at the original seat covers that I pulled off to see if there is a hole on the side. My car came without the retract mechanisms but was one of the earliest cars to get the pocket in the floorboards to hold the mechanisms. There was even a rubber plug in the unused threaded hole in the pocket since the original seatbelts only needed one bolt there. I have since added the later seatbelts.

Opening them would be easy enough. It's the getting them closed back up that's the problem. I'm thinking you'd need to carefully slice them along the one seam and later try to seal that back up. How was it done originally? From memory it seems like the vinyl is fused together using heat. I'd certainly practice on a disposable pair before attempting this on anything rare.

Yes, that's the metal tab I was referring to. When I recovered my seats I didn't recall seeing a provision for the seat mounted clip. I went ahead a fabricated a clear washer out of plexiglass. What do you think?

Sorry, I didn't even notice that link. That's perfect.

It's a very early Series II 1972 model year built 9/71. Attached is a picture of the clips that I have. I got them a while back from someone else so I can't be sure they're right for my car. From what you and Chris have said it sounds like these do go in the bottom hole that I mentioned. I'd love to see a picture of the clear plastic washer and screw for the other hole.

I've got a pair of seat belt clips and am trying to figure out where they attach. I've searched these groups, the galleries here, and the parts CD with no luck. I'm assuming that they mount just behind the side windows through holes in the front edge of the quarter window plastic trim. There are three holes along the forward edge of the trim piece. The top hole is obviously for the coat hanger hook as it has a small index hole next to it. It's the other two that I'm not sure about. The lower hole provides access to a threaded hole in the unibody. The middle hole provides access to a thin metal tab that has a small hole in it and which appears to have once had a screw mounted there. Both the middle hole and the lower hole are too small for the standard plastic rivets. Therefore, which one does the seat belt clip use and what is the other used for?

http://www.idiots-guide.org/badday.htm

Just in case anyone wants to know what a tool box liner looks like after being pulled out see the attached picture. It turns out I've only got one liner. I may use some leftover dynamat inside the tool boxes instead.

Ok, I see now that they're really not jet engines but rather turbine engines that you'd find in a helicopter. A google search indicates that a t58 puts out somewhere between 800 and 1500 HP.

Very strange; where are the air intakes for those jet engines?

That's strange. I'm positive my '72 has a metal piano-style hinge. I've never seen plastic. Can you post a picture?

When you're editing a post (not using the quick mode) just scroll to the bottom and click on the "Manage Attachments" button to add your picture. There seems to be a size limit of 1024x768 on pictures. Like Ed I can't think what that might be.

Can you post a picture showing them alongside a ruler?

I'd like to see the pictures if you get a chance. I wonder if there were any variations here throughout the production run?

Excellent. I just painted it black. Is it true there was one on both sides? The one I have hooks down to the left so I assume it goes on the right side. On the front of the car - on the left - there's a different tie down that's a ring. What was on the right front?

What color were the rear tie down hooks - those mounted in conjunction with the bumper bracket - originally on a 240Z? I took mine off years ago but recently found one in an old tool box and would like to clean it up and put it back on.

I could help you with the window cracks but I don't live close enough.

I'm certainly glad that you're personally safe in light of the tragic events so close to home. I know that the people of London will get through this just as they have in the past. I already have plans to be back there in September and will not let this deter me.

I'm sure we'll hear from him sooner or later. When I met with him in London he explained that he avoids public transportation and willingly pays the extremely high fees associated with keeping a car in the city.

Interesting choice of words since the higher the octane the less volatile the fuel, i.e., the more resistant to detonation. I suspect there's a perception out there that race cars use high octane and therefore high octane must make cars fast. In reality race cars must use high octane because of high compression ratios. Modern cars that "require" premium fuel do so for the same reason: they have higher compression ratios. If your car does not ping under load then higher octane does you absolutely no good. It simply costs you more. It is true that premium fuels may have better detergent additives than the cheap stuff but that's a separate issue. I agree that the main effect of most additives is to make the owner feel better.

What effect would an octane booster provide?