Jump to content

IGNORED

'72 stock with SU's(?)


glennz02

Recommended Posts

Howdy,

Just getting started with restoring 72 240 with 51k original mi.

Lots of things to do, but getting it running is first on the list.

It sat for about a year. I replaced points, plugs, condensor, rotor, cap, wires, added fresh fuel, sea-foam ( I swear by this stuff!) and to date have gotten one near miss out of the engine. Cleaned the carbs, and referred to the Chiltons which tells me that the carbs need 20W oil in the damper/plunger.

I have tried NAPA, and a host of other parts "chain stores" and none of them have 20W any more. Where can you get 20W? Would 5W-20 suffice? also, any tips, pointers both verbal and electronic to areas regarding carb synchronization would be most appreciated. I'm not much of a mechanic, but my 15 year old son has "the gift" and can basically fix or rebuild anything that rolls. This will be his car, as soon as he's old enough to get a license, but for now it's "our's".

This site is amazing, great info, looking forward....

Glennz02

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I have tried NAPA, and a host of other parts "chain stores" and none of them have 20W any more. Where can you get 20W? Would 5W-20 suffice?

The oil in the carbs has little to do with the fact that you're having trouble getting the engine running. The oil simply acts as a dampener that affects the rate in which the throttle opens and closes. The weight of oil is not critical. Many people use ATF. I use 20W oil that you can buy in a little blue and white can labeled 3-in-1 oil.

http://www.wd40.com/PressRoom/StockImages/gifs_xl/3in1-p_3oz_motoroil.gif

As far as getting things running I'd first make sure you're actually getting fuel into the carbs. You might consider spraying some starting fluid into the carbs to get things going. If it runs a little and then knocks off you know you're not getting fuel. If it won't run at all with starting fluid then you're not getting spark.

also, any tips, pointers both verbal and electronic to areas regarding carb synchronization would be most appreciated. I'm not much of a mechanic, but my 15 year old son has "the gift" and can basically fix or rebuild anything that rolls. This will be his car, as soon as he's old enough to get a license, but for now it's "our's".

This site is amazing, great info, looking forward....

Your best bet is to just search this site for information. Many people have come before you and asked similar questions. The best tool for syncing the carbs is called a Unisyn:

http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=60-9965&Category_Code=TE

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you connect your timing light to each plug wire and crank it over, you will see if there is spark or not. That is how I found the miss I had when I misadjusted the new Crane XR 7000 pickup. If there is no flash, you have no spark. Make sure you have spark. Check fuel by unhooking the fuel line from the rail going to the carbs. Be sure gas comes out when you crank it over. Disconnect the coil plug wire for this test. No fires please...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the input. here's the update. Got Spark, found clog on fuel line. tracing lines back cleaning and replacing as necessary. Filter replaced, fuel pump is primary suspect. Film at 11.

GZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 72 240 stock and have had similar problems as yours in the past due to the car not being run enough which was all my own fault. Victoria British LTD (search the web) has a catalog for Z's with the damper oil you need. They also have fuel pumps and the one I ordered has been working great for several years. The one I got from them was exactly like my original. In the meantime, if you know anyone with an old MG, old Mini Cooper or Jaguar that has SU Carbs they use the same oil. Where I live, there are alot more of these old cars than 240/260Z's and their owners seem to know a lot about the SU carbs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Z Therapy recommended regular ATF for my carbs, which is what I used when I installed the new carbs. If you really want the 20W stuff, find an industrial lubricants supplier. I have a quart somewhere in my garage coolecting dust on a shelf, picked it up at a farm/ranch equipment supplier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your '72 has an electric fuel pump back by the fuel tank, be sure to check the filter in it. It could be dirty and clogged. My '73 has both the mechanical pump and the electrical pump. I was having fuel flow problems and it turned out to be a dirty fuel filter.

Kenny P.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.