grannyknot

@Rod's Garage, those transmission cases look like they are in a dip cage, do you know what chemical solution was used to bring out that nice finish on the aluminum? The 69 crank looks like it would spin up quickly but I'm guessing there was some kind of vibration issue that required them to add the extra counter weights? Thanks

Dune?

Sure that will work but you may still have to shift the fender side of the door a bit once the fender is back on, the gaps are all in relation to one another. If you haven't yet it's always a good idea to run strip of masking tape around the edges of each panel/door, it's so easy chip the edges when you are moving things around. Also, make sure you have the main door seal is installed before you do final adjustment on the door.

Drill out the rivets on the old dash and rivet it on to the new one. EDIT, listen to SoCalJim, don't drill anything.

That looks pretty accurate, is that some bodywork on the front of the hood, looks like primer?

When alining the doors remember that there are no adjustments on the door itself, the hinges and receiver are fixed so all your adjustment is in where the hinges attach to the body and the striker. I start with all 6 hinge bolts installed loosely and only lightly tighten the top most bolt on each hinge while lining it it up. It sounds from your description that the striker needs to be loosened and pulled out a bit but while you are at it loosen the two lower bolts on each hinge on the body so there is no binding. If you get your eye down to the level of the striker you can actually watch it engage with the receiver while holding a light on the other side of the door. After you get the door closing nicely then slowly tighten the other hinge bolts while checking the clearance. As dutchzcarguy mentioned, do all of your adjusting with the car on the ground and not jacked up.

Reptoid, I had the diff out of the car at the time for reconditioning and to have a limited slip unit installed. I took the diff and all the new parts to a Differential shop and I remember the mechanic telling me had a hell of a time installing the new circlips because the spring action on them is so strong. So just be aware that this might not be a job that can be done with the diff installed in the car.

I don't know what it is called either but it is basically spring ring that holds the shafts in the diff. That spring ring might have worn to the point that it is not holding as well as it should or it might have cracked in two and fallen to the bottom. Those spring rings are still available from Nissan, at least they were two yrs ago, I would pull both halfshafts and investigate and replace both rings.

The 69-70 Zs didn't a vent on the sail just an emblem, the 2 little holes could have been puttyed up when a second paint job was done. I gotta move to the SW, you would never find a car like that up here.

Fantastic, the Roadsters are so pretty. How are you going to keep your self focused on the 280 now? Well if it becomes a stalled project you let me know, I'll help you out by taking it off your hands.

Okay, you have a couple of Zs, an NSX, a Datsun roadster, just give us the full list already.

The only thing I could see that might have been changed is the driver's seat upholstery, other than that it is a time capsule.

Does that mean you just bought it, or were you helping someone?

Vapor vent or one way valve, I see my confusion now, my unit blows through in either direction. Thanks guys, you solved a problem that I didn't know I had.

You know I don't think I did, these pics are about 5-6 yrs old now so the memory is not so clear but all the hardware is still in place, I think I might have removed the SS trim/window squeegee piece and the inner door card, rolled the window down all the way and got my fingers up there to thread the nuts on. At any rate it is worth a try before pulling the window glass.

Your grandson has that cocky F1 look down pat, perfect.

But this where @Captain Obvious jumps in and sets us both straight, most of my 280z knowledge comes directly from Bruce.

I think that spot usually holds this black filter looking thing, but from what I remember it is some kind of pulse damper that smoothes out the flow of gas.

Yeah, but it is worth it, I love mine.

Yup, but the other end of the LCA is held on by one bolt that goes through the cross member so easier to deal with, sometimes you still need a jack to get it into place.

It will be safer to to re tap the threads in the strut housing and get a new grade 8 bolt or clean up the original bolt. If you still have the other side to do you could bolt the the lower control arm/steering knuckle to the strut then you only have to line up the one hole of the LCA and the cross member with no threads to get buggered up.

Okay a little bit but Si/Bz is perfect for what you are doing right now, joining thin ga metal without the heat warping.

Unless of course you are MIG brazing with Silicon Bronze, then you want 100% Argon. You can get away with 75/25 mix but you get better control with straight Argon.

There is certainly a rubber plug on the inside hole but not sure about the hole underneath.