grannyknot

Welcome to the forum, she is a beauty and my favorite colour combo. The white is a buggar to keep clean but it looks so sharp, I think your door cards are custom covered.

Look at the oil cap upside down. Reminds me of the old story about the guy who brings his car in for an oil change and insists that the mechanic use 710 weight oil, the mechanic says there is no such thing and the guy says of course there is 710 oil, look at the cap!

I just haven't updated in 3 months! I spent a couple of days over the winter just chasing the threads on the entire car, such a treat now to screw in a freshly zincd bolts. Hoping to get the engine/trans in this weekend.

So paint is done and finally starting to put her back together.

And it even has the cast aluminum HURST shifter that we made so many of in grade 8 metal work!

I'll have a look today, I think I still have a set. Are yours not restoreable?

@Tirnipgreen did you ever sort this one out? I have just run into the same thing with the flange on the new ball joint not sitting flat to the LCA

That is exactly what they are for and originally there was a small rectangle of felt covering that slot on the inside to keep water from pushing in through those slots but allowing it to drain out if it did get in, most of those felt pieces are long gone so if you have access to the inside now is the time to replace them.

Oh yeah, they are not really useable without new spring washers. Apparently OBX isn't selling them anymore so glad I got one before they disappeared. They look like a good alternative for a stock half shafts but with a 225 ft/lb torque limit they are not going to handle what your new Futofab axles will.

R200 3.90 with an OBX limited slip, so far it is running great.

A couple of years back I replaced my studs and forgot to bring a wrench with me on the drive, one nut almost off and three others just starting to loosen.

These cars are well supported for wearable parts as well as many performance mods, so really you can go from a Sunday tooteler to fire breathing track car, just depends what your priorities are.

I like the new touches, black valve cover is sharp.

That's good to know, I went with the 83 ZXT shafts for my car but who knows how long they'll last.

So what are your plans for the car? Modify, bone stock? Second owner, I hope you gathered as much paperwork as you could from the original owner, there are probably only a handful Z's left that still have the stripe kit from the dealership! Also, welcome

Remember to stop after the first 10 miles and re-torque the lug nuts when replacing studs.

Amen brother, after that you enter the land of ego driven pricing.

So cool, I understand why the outriggers are there but it would be nice to see it drive with out them.

I think that little crack would only be a concern if it extended to the outside of the valve cover, besides it will be covered in sealant when you are done. Ask your powder coater to include the valve cover with a couple of other batches that are going into the oven before he coats the cover, it has been soaked in oil for 40 yrs and it will need to out gas in the oven for a while. If the cover doesn't get baked first it will out gas under the plastic coating and you'll have little bubbles popping up through the coating or at least that is what happened when I did it.

So true, I don't even want to think about all the money I have dumped into the engine and the paint but my brakes are hobbled together Toyota and Maxima parts.

That may be so but I imagine Stoptech has very big shelves . About 3 months ago I was quoted $3000 for all 4 corners and $350 for the parking brake calipers and adapters. I didn't have the cash then but maybe when I sell one of my toys, will be very interested to hear what Duffy has to say when he gets his car on the road.

The tap you're looking for would be a M22x1.5 a cheap tap will clean up threads but if the "donk" is too deep even a quality tap isn't going to do the job, a tap can't push out a dent in the threaded pipe.

So if the brake system was engineered from the ground up for our cars then perhaps Stoptech has used constrictor valves in the rear calipers to reduce the flow to get the balance right for front to back pressure. Can't see too many serious track guys liking that situation but maybe ZCG offers a different option for track cars.

You can chip it out but if you are going to sand blast it you need to remove the oil baffle entirely, lots of sand can hide in there and destroy the engine later. I used 3Bond 1184 to seal the oil baffle and securing screws, it has held up well over the years. Best to wait until the powder coating is done before reinstalling the baffle.

Does it come with the blue tarp?