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grannyknot

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Everything posted by grannyknot

  1. 1/8" welding rod for Oxy/Acet works well, then you just grind it back to what you need. How's the gap on the front of the door? There are spacers you can use to push the door to the rear.
  2. The coldest day I ever experienced was in Saskatchewan, -44C and a windchill of -66C. I walked out the door of the motel and the cold literally turned me around and walked me back into the room.
  3. I tried to follow dutchxcarguy's advise but found on the two door locks that you can't take them apart without prying up and destroying the SS lock cover. But after farting around with them for a couple of hours I found the key did in fact work if I inserted the key all the way in and then pulled it out 1/8th of an inch.
  4. Well maybe that's because you don't know what to look for, it also is not a broad statement it is a very specific statement. Anyone that has actually worked on repairing rust knows that that dime sized spot of rust that has popped through from inside is in fact 4-5" in dia. if not larger. Lets start on the deck lid that you think is perfect, that 3" piece of visible rust actually goes from the D/S fender to the middle of the deck lid as seen by the swelling between the spotwelds and that means almost certainly the vertical support for the deck lid will need repair as well. This common area of rust started on the inside behind the show panel and has eaten its way through to the outside all the way across the back of the car and I can tell you from experience that is a difficult, expensive repair. The rust in this area around the gas filler door will be much larger than it appears to be and will require the spot welds to be drilled out and the box behind removed then the damaged area will need to be cut out and replaced with a custom fabricated piece of 20ga sheet with the exact compound curves, body line crease and bead rolled lip the gas door nests into. And here, replacing the visible damage on the firewall is the least of your problems, the fresh air chimney and the bottom of the chamber behind the firewall will need extensive repair first before the firewall replacement even begins. @Snaponfitz, in no way am I saying you are trying to sneak one by us or hiding anything, not at all. I just don't think you will get the kind of money for your car that was mentioned at the start of this thread. I would love to take this car on as project, it has great potential.
  5. I think that if you just weld in some triangulated baffles into that circled area you should be good but actually @wheee! just did his last year so he should have a good idea of the configuration that is in there. An excellent water trap! Which is why they are eaten away so often, I can't say that I have ever seen a pristine frame rail to know if it had a drain hole or not, maybe one of our members from Arizona could tell us.
  6. Of course @kats has a set, maybe two sets, his basement must be a gold mine.
  7. I don't know how much of your original frame rail was left but the area I have circled in red has few layers of support webbing and gusset plates inside to stiffen that area, will you reuse the original T/C rod boxes? The new rail looks very accurate. ?
  8. I don't know guys, I'm seeing a $10,000 car that requires major restoration, there are tell tale signs of a lot of rust evenly distributed all over the car and we haven't seen underneath yet. The car will sell for whatever Lady Luck decides that day but hope the OP will keep his expectations realistic. So far I think he has priced it right.
  9. If a Luddite like me can do it, you won't have a problem, does Haltech send you the unit with tune already installed or are they tuning it remotely as you drive?
  10. In Ontario at least Nissan isn't offering them anymore, when I bought 2 front fenders from Nissan about 6 yrs ago they weren't Nissan made but repops. They were very nice looking repops but still didn't fit all that well, the curve from the top down to the rockers was a little larger than the door so they stuck out.
  11. and the right guy.
  12. I don't have a p/n but they are the standard filter for the fuel injectors on a 280z. If you can find them you are welcome to these, I have 6 used ones but once they are back flushed they are as good as new.
  13. Here are the injector screens, I guess they are too small.
  14. It looks like the filter in the top of an old fuel injector, I'll dig one out and post a pic next to a tape measure.
  15. I guess you are an expert spot weld driller by now, big project.
  16. Hey Kent, Welcome to the forum, I know a kindred spirit when I see one, very nice jig, that will be a straight car by the time you're done. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
  17. Some of the new models offer a viewer that lets you see your work piece in natural light before you start welding instead of the dark green, as soon as my current helmet croaks I'm going to get one of those, nice feature.
  18. Well the paint looks magnificent, such a shame it had to be redone, life is too short for that kind of thing. So now just the reassembly?
  19. I was going through the locks today and realized that the ignition key locks the hatch but doesn't fit the two door locks, is there a way change or replace the tumblers so as to have one key for everything? Thanks
  20. Yes but so does everyone else and a lot of those guys have more money than you and me 280 s are great cars, are superior to the 240s in many ways and the prices are still reasonable.
  21. Soak them in some thinners and wash the hard grease out of them, repack with fresh grease and they will be good for another 50 yrs. Well just keep all of the original stuff so you can take it back to original if you change your mind.
  22. Besides, that grey will look great with the green body colour.
  23. Well that depends what kind of driving you are going to do, if it is a weekend car 1-2 track days a year then you can get away with just some bump stops (NOT hard poly, you need the stiff poly foam) and good tires. If you think you will be doing lots of track then you might want to get camber plates, caster adjustment and the rest that stuff. Just my opinion. Urethane bushings are great for track work but can be punishing for a street car.
  24. So even though it has been sitting in a box all this time presumably with no direct sun light there is a crack. It could have been dropped I guess but I would be fearful the vinyl is pretty brittle just from age. Vintage Dashes is going to be working solid for the next 20 yrs.
  25. You probably should head over to Hybridz, https://forums.hybridz.org/ That is a fairly popular engine swap and there are a number of guys there that have done it. Don't want to chase you away but Hybridz is all about engine swaps.
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