grannyknot

It's a parts car and it is up to $3700

Ah, those were the days and a good parts car was $400

It probably continues through the firewall and over to the D/S shock tower.

Perhaps you have the diff mount on backwards, that's the front mount. spin it 180 degrees.

Yeah, glowing red and 60 tons seems to be where they decide to let go, but Jeff whatever you do don't be tempted to get the BFH out, all you will do is mushroom one of the ends that you will need to either press it or pull it out.

Cool but how does it attach to the roof, glued to the headliner ?

I want one of every tool you own and maybe the shop as well.

That COP support is going to look smart, is there anyway to put a 1" radius on that bend? Does the catch can have a breather on it?

Yes, that is exactly how it was done, thanks for confirming that.

Unique, https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/norfolk-county/unique-1977-datsun-280z/1418314574?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

And without your jig you would be in trouble?, I'm learning lots from this thread.

I've always thought that the 240s were in the 550lb range but now I'm thinking 500-510 perhaps.

I have been so busy with the 280 I forgot about this thread, so I got everything down to bare metal, two coats 2k epoxy primer on all surfaces and two coats of undercoat, and now that it's all sealed up I can breath a bit and not have to worry about the coming humidity. As it was time drop the car off the rotisserie I had a chance to weigh it, this is just the shell, the only thing left on the car is the vinyl headliner and the 2 rear wheel arch vinyls. Now I'm not 100% on this method but I couldn't think of any other way to do it with what I had on hand. With the car level the rear measurement was taken with the car hanging from the rotisserie bar that bolts on where the tie down hooks usually are, then jacks were placed under the rear rotisserie bar and the front was weighed hanging from the front rotisserie bar that is bolted to where the bumper shocks attach just in front of the radiator support. I checked the accuracy of the crane scale by lifting my small anvil which I know is 118 lbs and it was bang on, I have to apologize, I forgot to take a pic of the rear measurement but it weighed in at 289 lb, front was 246 lbs 289lbs 246lbs 535lbs minus the 6lbs of the rotisserie bars, is 529 lbs Someone with better geometry skills than me will have to verify if the method I used is valid.

Yes your right, I had to get rid of my 2 wire and exchange it for the the newer 3 wire to run the MS2, same housing though.

I drop my stuff off at a local platers but I'm pretty sure @motorman7 ships his off.

But isn't the fuel going through at least one fine paper filter before it ever gets to the flat tops? What is that screen actually catching?

That is identical to the old bmw IAC I use on my Z, they haven't changed the design since the 80s.

I'm pretty sure Tabco is the maker of that panel but their is another company called Mill Supply that also punches out some of the Z panels, they buy some of their stuff from Tabco and vice versa.

There are lots of Zs out there using the the stock Rad with no problems...

That is one of the problems with those oil bars, when you reinstall it spray some brake cleaner in the threaded hole, blow it out and put a dab of RTV on the threads and tighten the screws. I have found a welders tip cleaner a good tool to clean out the oil spray holes, just don't make those holes any larger.

Some guys swear by Vasoline, I tried it once and the dash looked amazing, not shiny but a warm healthy glow. You rub in the the thinnest layer that that you can then with a clean cotton cloth try and remove as much as possible. Just not sure about the chemistry.

Just clean the cam tower area and the oil bar face plate very well to remove all traces of oil with spirits/alcohol and apply a very thin smear of RTV or gasket maker. Make sure that no RTV can be squeezed into the oil hole.

It could also be the 2 main spindles that the wiper arms attach to, there is no means of lubricating them without removing the wiper arms, the cowl panel, disconnecting the linkage at the motor to see how stiff the movement is. Since you have to go that far to test the motor anyway you can test both at the same time, but then after 47 yrs you should probably pull both out for some maintenance. Many members have found that those spindles caked with dust and rust are the real cause of slow or seized wipers.

Okay, so it was the usual hard work then, I'm always looking for that miracle product that will take care of aluminum in one step. Nice to see that repair done properly with a Timesert, you guys are doing great work.

The best thing you can do is keep it out of the sun, even when driving I leave one of those dash toupees on it to keep the sun off and only take it off for shows.