kats

Hi Gavin, I will take pictures of the button tomorrow, please standby shortly. I found a nice picture of the FRP bonnet, this car used to be owned by Mr. Otsuka. Note the tire, Bridgestone Super Speed-2 (6.45 S14). Otsuka-san knows the tire, I think it was already so hard to obtain 5 original tires at that time. FYI, Z432 has Super Speed 5 (6.95 H14). From Car Magazine June 1995. Kats

Wait, I see the distance is different from mine, Kats

Hi Gavin, looks like you have got the same one as mine , you also selected the black steering wheel! You need a boss to attach, let me know if you need one, RS Mach is just 30 minutes drive from my house. Kats

Hi, I looked at magazines in my room and I couldn’t find any clear pictures of the diff oil cooler installed on other Works cars. There is a picture of 1973 Safari Winner car’s fuel filters and pumps, and hand written diagram! By the way, I didn’t know the 1973 Safari Winner has extended seat brackets like a Fairlady Z series even that car is LHD. Is it unusual isn’t it? Note the steel protector underneath of the diff, the picture is 1971 Safari Winner. It has straight floors, unbelievable for the car won the toughest rally at that time. Kats

Yeah! This car is Glenn’s beautiful very early Fairlady 240Z. I believe his car is HS30-100XX , it means very early L24 model for Japanese people (October 1971 Nissan released Fairlady 240Z series in Japan). The blue 115 began to serve at the debut of Fairlady 240Z series in Japan. Before that no blue was available for the Fairlady Z series I mean Japanese market. Looking at export market, Nissan also refreshed color lineup at that time, 903 blue was replaced by 115 blue, 905 red was replaced by 110 red etc. I am feeling his blue 115 looked similar to 905 because of aging. Here is a good example, this Z432 has 115 blue sold to the US some years ago and looked just like Glenn’s blue 115. PS30-00524 first registration was made June 1972. Kats

Hi Gavin, the craftsman was popular amongst the Mach fan but yes he seemed stop making it. My Mach steering wheel is this one, produced by RS Mach http://www.rsmach.net/steering/op010.html This one is not as original as the one you mentioned, but very accurate finishing touch and super high quality. This one is a plug and play, only inside of the boss is modified for easy use ( horn button contact, electrical wiring etc). So, let us see your horn button back side. Is it the same as the one on the parts catalog? Or I am guessing you bought a RS Mach produced horn button, if so you can still get remaining parts from the shop. If yours is genuine or Goodness reproduced, then it is very difficult to find associated parts. RS Mach boss can fit in genuine Mach steering wheel (maybe Goodness wheel too). I chose a transparent button just because I like it. I wanted a silver steering wheel with a sliver boss but the silver wheel was NLA. So I get the black one with a black boss, but I chose a silver (rounded edge) ring with a transparent button. Kats

Male catch early and late. Do you know when the handle was bent a little bit for better finger holding ? I am curious about it. Later on the handle began to have two springs, finally the handle got a rubber cap. Kats

Thanks Bart, Jason240z, Patcon and Dan. I found the FRP bonnet has thicker edge than steel one (A ) and also the male catch positioned quite closer to the female catch bracket (B). (A) was solved by replacing a seal rubber to thinner one. (B) was solved by tightening the male catch as much as the bonnet can stay locked and sit same hight to the cowl top panel. I needed to take off a black plastic spacer for full travel of the male catch. I also enlarged two holes of the male catch just a little bit to achieve more slide to the right. This solved uneven gap on left and right between the inspection lid and the bonnet. I really appreciate all of your help, now I am happy with this look and it is fun to steer the wheel much lighter than before. Kats

The local store ( like Home Depo) has soft rubber, and it worked quite well. It looked not bad I think. Kats

Today I did try some adjustments like Patcon advised me, and I came to OK for the gap. Still need some work but I can’t do it better at the moment. The most effective thing of today’s work was took off the rubber seal of the cowl top, it gives some room to sit lower than before. I need an alternative thin rubber sealing for it, I am going to shop now at a local store with my blue Z. Kats

Hi Patcon, I checked mine and yes it seems painted flat black on center from inside. This set of the tail light is used ones so I cleaned and polished. I have isobutylene-isoprene rubber, it is sticky so I will try using it for docking the lens and the case. Kats

This is a nice picture too, I can smell new from this picture. Maybe it’s keys are still intact, not worn out. Once I luckily have seen the keys of the 1971 Safari winner car, keys are like new. Yes those cars didn’t accumulate kilometers and miles so it would be natural for them I think. Recently I bought a set of used gas strut for 1974 or later car to replace the one not functioning of my second blue 240Z. Then I realized it is weak to support by only one strut. Maybe aging? Or is that meant to be so for dual application? I am expecting this weaker strut will work properly for my steel rear gate with a plexiglass windshield ( I am preparing for this) like Z432-R. I imagine why works cars didn’t have a simple rod. They probably wanted a quick opening and closing to save every second at the rally, didn’t care about uneven look when it closed. Z432-R simple rod is unique and cute but it takes some time to operate. Kats

Wow Alan! This looks great! I can’t wait to see the car when completed. I can’t tell the rear gate is FRP, so cool! Kats

Thanks Patcon and Zed Head, I will follow your advices. So I will do like this, #1 Patcon, try adjustments #2 Alan, enjoy authentic-feeling #3 Zed Head, if I have budget and repair man is willing to do. Hood pin is a good idea too,it also links to authentic-feeling Kats

Thank Alan! That is what I am feeling about for racing cars. Kats

Hi , I tested fittings of a replica Z432-R bonnet which was duplicated from an original Z432-R bonnet. The fiberglass was selected to much the original one, I simply love to see the fiberglass cloth material and the way of structure inside. I did some adjustments but still in a half way of proper looking. A big issue is bending upwards at the left corner end. Maybe I heat it up and push it down? I am feeling it will not work for FRP. Maybe a garden stone on the corner to sit down little bit but how long will it need? A month? Or a year? Kats

I found your car has a gas strut to support the rear gate. The rear gate is much lighter than the normal one, I am wondering if the strut is too strong to push the rear gate upward. Z432-R has a simple rod to support and it’s retainers are unique to the car. As Alan mentioned, a road going Z432-R has a steel rear gate with a plexiglass windshield, that is heavier than your rear gate. Interesting! Kats

Thanks Alan, that blower motor configuration is shocking to me! And it looked cool, I am curious what is hiding in the dash. Kats

I should look at the title first, you want an original key. Then my recommendation above is not suitable for you. inline6, I love originals just like you.. When I finally have got the original keys, I sold blank keys which I bought from him. Kats

Hi, I bought a key from him a long time ago, http://www.kuro-key.com/item/?ca_category=15&icon[]=1 if he is still in business, it would be a good choice for your car. I looked at his key very carefully with my genuine key side by side. Only subtle differences between them, I would say no one can tell which one is which without having a genuine one in hand. Kats

Hi Chris, let’s find out! You can’t see dots around ASAHI or LAMISAFE , or TEMPERLITE, sometimes those glasses are really difficult to see the dots as if almost scratched out. I want to see your glasses if feasible. Kats

Hi Ian, sorry I fallen asleep before explaining about how to. SpeedRoo is correct, the position of dots are telling year and month. Here is a link when I posted about it, I think other cars have definitely the same markings. So you can find out when your glasses were made Ian ! Kats

Sorry I was mistaken the car, the picture of the door glass “April 1973 “ is for the 1973 240Z, so it is correct. I checked HLS30-01606, the car has correct glasses. Like most of other parts, the date is a little bit earlier than the door jam tag. Kats

Hi motorman7，it’s good to here from you, and thank you for telling me it. I always respect judges, also every single owner who loves cars. Now I am planning to attend ZCON next year, I am really looking forward to see you again ! Not going to bring my Z though. Kats

Hi Dan, I didn’t know that ! Need five screws on the scuff plate, I need to have them correctly on my cars. Hi SpeedRoo, I have never expected that newer NISSAN logo on the windshield, it means we were able to buy the windshield from a local Nissan dealership quite recently? The door glass would be supplied from another car , ZCCA judges can tell it at one glance. Kats