kats

Hi Alan, I show this before you do . From a サービス周報(Service bulletin) 昭和44年11月 ( November 1969 ) page 27, ステアリング　ホイール　木製 (Steering wheel. Wood ) シフト　レバー　ノブ　　木製 (Shift lever knob. Wood ) page 130, 握り部分を木製にし、スポーティムードを出しました。 (The grip is wood , to show sportier mood ) Kats

I checked it . The decal shows 0 K , November 1970. So a heater box should have the same “ 0 K “ or could be “ 0 L “ on a decal . NIHON RADIATOR, they called themselves “ NICHIRA “ . I am guessing this 919 yellow car should have “NICHIRA 20100-E4100 70 11 (or 12) “ on the surface of a rear muffler. This car also remains a center muffler , so we will see 70 11(or 12) on it as well . This car is very original. I wish I could have it . Kats

Hi Keith , that is so nice , I just imagine how much passion and efforts has been put into the jute . You will be rewarded I am sure . We will get to know how the jute pads are shaped . There are a lot of good examples here and there . Kats

Hi Alan, I saw the BAT comments. I am sure this thread will definitely clear the myth. It’s a lot easier to clear than clearing Mr. Goertz myth . I did a bit search for IZUMI , I found this article , https://www.nttd-es.co.jp/magazine/backnumber/no9/no09-izumi.html I think that was just a few years before being merged into Autoliv . This article is very interesting and proved their very high quality and skilled engineering. Also I found an interesting another blog , https://ameblo.jp/1119-4195/entry-12213393088.html A gentleman talking about IZUMI steering wheel. His friend whose father was a president of IZUMI , 常泉彦三郎 Tsuneizumi Hikosaburo .What I am liking is he is talking about his friend was an engineer of Nissan , his friend was testing a radiator for Fairlady Z euro version (no mention of years ) , Nissan Germany claimed the car overheated, they said the car needs to be qualified continuous 230 km/h cruising . One day his friend visited his house in Frankfurt, took his 1975 Porche 911 2.7 for a round trip in Europe, his friend was so amazed by 911 . No overheating, fast and strong brake. Kats

Hi inline6, unfortunately my roll was discontinued some 15 years ago. I wasn’t told the name of the manufacturer , I was just told this was provided by the manufacturer who made for Nissan as genuine parts . This roll is 10 mm thick , the well known shop “ Revive Jalopy “ in Japan used to have them and cut them to bespeak for each individual car . Now Revive Jalopy has an alternative solution for the jute , they finally found 5mm thick jute and they glue it together, and dye it with brown special liquid. Price is on request (probably not cheap for the jute ) if you are interested in , let me know. By the way , this 919 yellow 240Z is so nice . What makes me feel amazing is , the dashboard and seats . They are unbelievably beautiful, and intact as more than 50 years old car . These items are everyone’s top concern if someone wants to be purist. We can’t have them restored 100 % original. We have to find periodically correct perfect dashboard or seats . Otherwise we have to compromise on results of restoration some how . inline6 , you may already see this thread ,https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/8002-original-jute-material/#comments post # 99 and after , our members provided useful link for the jute . Kats

Nice ! My 03/70 240Z has the same jute on the rear deck ( pictured one happened to come apart when I tried to take off ) . Actually the early jute was divided into three pieces, there are separate pieces in front of the left and right speakers . This is true for all S30 series which are early models except Z432-R . Also except Fairlady Z (basic model ) and export 1969 cars maybe ? I have a roll of the exact jute from the manufacturer , I need to dye it with brown liquid. So far no idea what the liquid would be . Kats

Hi Alan, that is a great anatomy of our steering wheel. It is wood !Even it appears wood more than I expected. I remember when I asked if our steering wheel is wood , Mr.Matsuo said it is wood compressed with a very high power added some plastic (or a kind of material) . Alan , do you see “compressed “ phenomenon like Mr. Matsuo said ? I think Datsun 510 has a same steering wheel, I am curious about if there are any discussions about same thing among 510 owners ? I want to ask it directly to an engineer of IZUMI but maybe impossible… Kats

Nothing to tell recently except this alternator, I had my old spare one rebuilt at a local shop. I am so happy with the result , they did what I wanted to have . I said don’t paint green on the center portion, leave it as it is . They said it needs to be painted for some reasons , then we agreed paint clear coat on it . Unfortunately model number and Nissan part number have gone , actually they have already gone when I got it a long time ago . I will put this in my first 240Z , then previous one on my first 240Z will go to my second 240Z . Kats

Hi Gavin, Patcon is right , the red round hook on the front left strut is for towing. I don’t know why it is there , maybe there will be some reasons. The car has a FRP bonnet when running, I saw it was bent on the long straight , I felt it was not good for performance. G-Nose is certainly much better for racing on a track. Kats

Hi, yesterday I was at Fuji Speedway to see a practice of a racing Z432. Hayakawa san did 30 minutes test run for two sets , the car runs fantastic. We have some popular S20 engine builder in Japan , but today I don’t know there is a serious racing Z432 fighting on a track except Hayakawa san . Built and Tuned by Toyozumi san , he is doing my spare S20 too . I can’t wait the engine finished. Honestly, the Z432 was the best of sound among the circuit yesterday. It is true . There were many modern super fast monsters like AMG GT300 , Ferraris , Porches etc . But none of them were making fantastic sound . Maybe Ferraris? But not even close. Kats FullSizeRender.MOV IMG_7012.MOV IMG_7006.MOV

Hi inline6 ! Actually I found the car on eBay just 6 hours before the ending . So please don’t feel guilty about me struggling with such a rough condition car 😁 I saw the thread after I bought it, I was impressed that you and Terrapin Z were talking about the car as if you were actually seeing it. Yes the engine had rebuilt at some point , and it was a 4 speed , and hit front in the past so newer bonnet was applied. One thing you were wondering about the engine was matched or not , this was the biggest concern to me too . Terrapin Z said “ this seller really doesn’t know these cars well , as he was asked about the engine number and provided a picture of the casting number “ Yes , I was feeling exactly the same way too , and this led to me to think “ the seller not trying to sell it high “ . Why did I decide to go for it ? Because I was able to see portions of left edge of number “ 2 “ just a little bit , I was for sure this engine would be made in February 1970 just like my #2156 . I was drawing on our knowledge which was shared in classiczcars.com , and it succeeded. Kats

Splash water . Kats FullSizeRender.MOV

Hi , now Japan is in a rainy season . But today we had sunshine , so I decided to clean up an engine at a car wash . My friends kindly helped me out for this mission, I am very happy it’s results. Not perfect because I didn’t take off a front cover , and a fly wheel . There are two plugs each side ( front and rear ) , I wanted to, but I had limited time to operate today . General cleaning was the first thing to do . This engine is on HLS30-02146 , L24- 005318 was probably sitting in a garage for last 30 years , I see very bad contaminations there . Rusty , gelled water in the block . We did our best , it was so fun ! Kats

Thanks for the pictures, my #2146 has the same “ TR 7 “ for upper six-location . I was thinking this was a aftermarket one supplied in the US , so I was almost going to throw it away . Like I showed in my thread, I have got started to disassemble it’s engine, I have got some bolts and nuts from my local Nissan . Some of them were altered their part number just a little bit, but yes they are qualified superseded parts . I still can’t find out why the parts catalog says 6 studs for upper location at first , I checked my JDM and export catalogs issued in Nov 1969 , Dec 1970 , they don’t list bolts for that location. In March 1972 , JDM parts catalog listed six bolts for the upper location. But seems many of our cars have 6 bolts from the beginning before March 1972 , including my car . By the way , my 2146 had a maintenance work once or twice long time ago , so chances are high for using six bolts at some point . Interesting! Kats

Thanks ! I have zero knowledge and zero experience for rally, but this speedometer makes me think it needs to be . For average speed , no need 240 km/h scale ? 180 km/h scale gives better read for accurate speed control for time keeping? Super cool car ! Kats

Congratulations on your attendance at a car show ! And thank you so much for sharing your car’s details with us . I am so excited about seeing your genuine Works rally car , it is so fascinating. You must have been dedicated to the car , I just imagine how difficult it is to collect the rare of the rare parts . Also you must have spent a lot of time to confirm it’s provenance. You have Alan , he is the best enthusiast to ask , I am enjoying this thread , a lot of new things to learn . One thing I would like to know is , the speed meter . Max 180 km/h , this is not a usual thing for Fairlady Z series for 1969-1973 . They have Max 240 km/h scale . Is that a Works special or, normal scale for Australia or some other destinations? Kevin’s Works car has also 180 km/h scale . Kats

Hi, not a S30 topic . Today I was in a Nara convention center for new Z show time . It’s just about 15 minutes drive from my home . I really like this new Z , this is the first time that I would want a newer Z . I got into a cockpit, very nice ! And I didn’t forget to take a shot of a chassis number tag on the kicking plate . It is a RZ34-100014 , very early!! This will mean 14th of RHD RZ34 , I think 😍 A Nissan employee said this car is for testing, displaying, so never will make it on the road , sadly. Tamura san kindly visited my home and my garage , he said he really likes blue , so this time new Z blue is his strong recommendation. Also Tamura san started to talk about he dedicated his passion and time and money everything to L-series engine modification in younger days , he used to be wild on the street. Kats

My dream is trip around the world visiting all my Z friends. I definitely stop and say hello to your 26th and 27th . Kats

Thank you Mark Maras , Your comment gradually made me think the lever would be snapped off or the symbols would be erased before it is flattened . Just a matter of molding? For 1972-73 levers , I saw similar variations on a surface around a symbols . Kats

Today , I would like to present a little observation for the knobs . I am thinking to install a hand throttle lever which was pulled from a 1970 Z432 to my #2146. I found the lever is flattened around a symbol that would indicate a continuous, long term use by the owners . Or is that a natural thing from the beginning ? Z432 , a S20 engine , most people preferred to start it without pulling a choke lever because of Mikuni carburetors . Then it needs longer time to warm up than L-series engine , you will want to use a hand -throttle lever to ease your foot . So , my guess is a hand - throttle lever on a Z432 is more likely to be premature faster than a choke lever on a Z432 . On the other hand, L-Series SU carburetors need to be pulled a choke when it is started , and also used for warming up . Don’t need to use a hand - throttle for warming up . A choke lever for SU carburetors is always touched by hands ,might be premature much faster than a hand- throttle on the same car . The last picture shows a tape that shields a tiny screw in a hole when it is new. Kats

I would like to say thank you Alan too , those are museum pieces, if not you , I don’t know who will be able to show those . We are lucky to be here . Yes , those parts are usually hard to see . Thanks ! Kats

Thanks 240dkw, I saw your work , you are genius! I like the idea of the splint for the pipe so much . Also the grommets are still doing good , that is a good news , almost three and a half years passed since you worked. Your car is a Canadian 240Z ? I see non emissions devices on your exhaust manifold. Kats

Thanks Gavin, I am thinking like you time to time . This car , I already am going to have fun with some modifications like non- emissions intake and exhaust, with a dual exhaust system, non-original radio , etc etc . I have got the “C camshaft “ which is designed as internal oiling system , and this has slightly sportier feeling profile. It will be a good choice for this broken oil spray head . The picture is my #2156 valve cover, Mr. K and Mr. Matsuo kindly gave their autograph on it in 2000 , just before departing Yokohama to attend ZCON LAS VEGAS . Almost gone , but I still can see them !! Kats

Hi Bart , thanks for sharing it , your thoughts are just the same as mine , my #2156 has it , I realized it today . Tetsu , he restored my 240Z and he definitely thought this spray bar was much better than the original one . I will ask him later . But I think we can see the one in the picture looked later one , much simpler way to make . The early one has a heavy duty looks , more metal and more screws . The first picture is my #2156 , and the second picture is my spare L24 which was removed from 01/1970 240Z . Kats

Today I was shocked by this , a portion of an oil spray bar pipe was found from the oil pan . I couldn’t find out what it was first, but today I found that the pipe was the part of the spray bar . All the retaining bolts are loose, I now understand this is why people want to get rid of it and going to have oil holes the camshafts and camshaft brackets. But I want this to be an original. Kats