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Maybe some loose nuts around the carbs? I'm sitting here making Slurpee noises and to me it sounds like sucking in air?

I straight wired mine with speaker wire and some alligator clips to the battery and the pump's terminals. Try that and pull the bottom hose off the fuel filter, put it in a jug and see how it pumps. Should be a strong steady stream so be careful. Our cars have a return line going back to the tank so it circulates all the time.

Have you tried tightening the clamps? That's usually where they leak from. If the hose is split then here's a good read, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/33005-1976-280z-feul-injectors-installation.html

In my area, Honda, Mercedes and Hyundai. Airbus down in Mobile. Farmers do better building cars than growing corn but if they legalize weed we would be like the Beverly Hillbillies.

That could be the ignition module on the side of the distributor, small black plastic box. Early ZXs have the E12-80 with only one plug, the later ones have E12-92 with 2 plugs. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=e12-92+280zx. They have circuit boards inside so I'm sure they can fail at some point.

Does the tachometer stay constant with the motor's RPM or does it bounce around? I ask thinking of a failing coil.

You're making my life easier, thank you.

You can take the fuel supply line loose at the bottom of the fuel filter and put it in a jug. Have someone turn the key and see if fuel is coming out, you'll know if it's clogged, should be a strong steady stream. The inlet to the original Bosch fuel pump, if that's what you have, has a small cone shaped filter in it. You'll need to loosen the line from the tank to the pump, slide it off and pull the filter out with tweezers. They are very fragile so be careful. While you have that hose off you could blow through it to unstop any debris from the pick up in the tank. If you haven't done this yet, you should go to Walmart and buy a Fram G3 clear plastic filter and put it in the line from the tank to the fuel pump, $3 insurance. I look at mine all the time fearing the Red Kote tank liner will show up in there, 2 years and nothing but beautiful fuel. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html

I've got a camera and two '72s. I'd be more than happy to take some reference pictures if you need something.

That thing under the fuel rail that's leaking air could be the Fuel Pressure Regulator. https://www.google.com/search?q=280zx+fuel+pressure+regulator+location&tbm=isch&ei=deTMU87WLs6cyASPooDQCw They play a huge part in the fuel injection system. It should have a vacuum line coming off the intake manifold to it, if it doesn't and is leaking air you should fix that right off the bat. My '77's air filter housing is an early "Cold Air Intake" type, I think the ZXs are made a little different but that shouldn't be a problem, no leaks after the AFM is what is important, "un-metered air" will cause it to buck and cough. I would think your cooling problem isn't the radiator if it gets hot that quick, stuck thermostat, bad water pump or fan clutch. Spin the fan with your hands, if it free spins more than 2 rotations your fan clutch needs replacing. Take out the thermostat, crank it and watch the flow under the cap or lack of flow. Sounds like cars I've had in the past. My Dad would say to "take the radiator cap off and drive another car under it, tighten the radiator cap and go". He could be a d i c k sometimes.

#10 Walter Moore, is the post that eased my mind. "This is typical for me. Get a meat thermometer. Put it in the top of the radiator. Start the car and let it idle until it gets full up to temperature. Check the temperature of the actual radiator fluid. You will feel better. Trust me."

Those plug wires are HUGE. Maybe there's the $1,000?

Mine sits on the right leg of "M" in TEMP. That was hot to me but after putting a meat thermometer in my radiator, 176 degrees, it's that particular cars normal. 3 cars with 3 different normals.

I've got the Premium Exhaust from MSA, Motorsport! MSA Premium Exhaust System, 9/74-78 260Z-280Z (for 6-1 Headers) - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts to match their 6 to 1 ceramic coated header and absolutely love it. Some people complain about the droning at constant highway speeds and this seems to be solution, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-24215/. I drive my Camry on the highway so the droning doesn't bother me when I'm ripping around here in my Z. It bothers other people though, it's pretty loud when you're on it, but it only bothers them for a second or two.

Did the E-Bay retainers work out good? I'd like to have a bag. Whops! I read the other thread and see where Steve bought them. Thanks for the tip Steve.

You could go to a parts store and get the right width and real close on the overall length, they have a belt stretcher that measures your old 240 belt's length. V-Belt Number Finder For Replacement Belts | Gates Corporation

Bam!

That link I posted doesn't have a valid path to the valve adjustment tip. It's really easy and clears the mind for a few minutes, you'll enjoy it one day. Hers's what you need, 17mm crows foot socket, $20 for a set of metrics at a chain parts store; 14mm open end wrench; feeler gauge set; 10mm socket. You can put your car in a high gear and roll it to move the cam lobes or get a 27mm socket for the front pulley, turn motor clockwise,. or a remote starter $15 at chain parts store. I prefer the remote starter because I have to raise the engine bay of the car up to waist level, hurts my back too much bending over. The 27mm with a pull handle is kinda difficult with the fan and all or getting under the car to pull it. If you use the remote starter don't pull the trigger, put the handle in one hand and bump the trigger into your other hand. Make a template? with the valves and the clearances written on it, COLD is Exhaust .010 Intake .008, HOT .012 Exhaust Intake .010 Remove the valve cover and plug wires. Put a towel over the fender and put your template under the wiper. See which lobes high point, the smallest part of the tear drop shape, are coming towards you on the passenger's side. Our motors are sitting tilted to the passenger's side so be sure and line the tear drops top up with the center of the cam towers, there's 5 of them that the cam goes through, I made a center line with a Sharpie when I realized the motor wasn't centered in the bay. When the point centers up top slide the correct feeler gauge in between the cam and the rocker's pad. If it's supposed to be .012 do what they call the "fits and doesn't fit" method, if a .013 won't fit it's good, if it does and the .012 is loosely go in and out it needs to be tightened. Take the 17mm crows foot and loosen the locking nut at the base of the rocker arm. Then use the 14mm to adjust the next nut up until the feeler gauge has a drag to it coming out. See if the .013 "fits or doesn't fit". When your happy with it tighten the 17mm locking nut and put an "X" on your template. Move on to the next lobe coming up, it doesn't have to be in order. Before you know it you'll be done.

My Dad would dump a can of black pepper flakes in his work truck and it worked, temporarily. So save the flushings for a BLT. :laugh:

I would, 1st, put a filter between the tank and pump, Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation, then a NEW filter up front behind the radiator on passenger's side. 2nd, clean up the grounds around the motor, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html, then a NEW set of NGK BP6ES 3rd, adjust the valves. very easy with the proper tools, do them cold first. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=adjusting%20valves%20280z 4th, borrow a vacuum gauge from parts store or buy one and check the vacuum, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuum/ 5th, check your fuel pressure. Borrow a gauge from parts store or buy one at Lowes, Shop Aqua EZ Pressure Gauge at Lowes.com, get the fittings and "T" it in a fuel line. 6th, pull the connectors off each injector to make sure they're firing 7th, put a mirror under the intake manifold where the EGR mounts and look for soot from a loose fitting tube coupler. Recall from Nissan about this issue back then. Looking back I would adjust the valves 1st if you haven't already, it really makes a difference. Make sure all the vacuum lines are good, especially the one going to the Fuel Pressure Regulator. This will help immensely, http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html Have fun!

How free spinning is your fan clutch? Too easy isn't good.

That's a good looking car! My '77 has those same extra holes around the engine bay plate. I'm pretty sure that G before the HLS is the symbol for 2+2s. Here it is, http://www.xenons30.com/VIN.html Here's something every '77 owner should know about, because he has one. Tech Tips

That chart I posted in #1 says "Grind customers cam B". My internal oiler cam is a B stamped one, on the N47, it also has a spray bar. The E31 cam is stamped "A" without oil holes, just the spray bar. I would rather have both, oiler cam and spray bar with the automatic turbo's oil pump, flood the cam. Is there a L motor specialist at Isky that you deal with? I hate to keep bothering you with my questions and my local machinist is not very familiar with our cars. He said he could access all the details with a computer program he has. I thought about Eddie Radatz in Kennesaw, GA. I know Rebello is the most recommended but I'd like to keep it on the east side of the Mississippi. Who do you use? Thank you for all your insight, it's priceless...literally.

Actually I was! Not now though, thanks. I hope the E31 towers have the oil passages for the cam as well as the spray bar. I'll look when I get home. Thanks again.

I haven't even noticed the drain **** being on the bottom as opposed to the back side, . I'll probably put a brass plug in there just to be safe, thanks Hardway! Didn't clean the shroud too well as I'll be taking the motor out this fall.