siteunseen

That's funny you asked, we just talked about the carpet changes. Post #10, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51630-z-car-source-carpet-and-seat-kits/ 195/70-14" is what mine had.

Good deal. Getting the race in there was a little tricky without a press.

He's 7 hours ahead of me so 8am here is 3pm there which is awful close to 5 o'clock.

Nastitties at Nascar races.

That's a good point, Jim. I replaced my front bearings and didn't torque the big nut down to spec, which is very little, I just tightened it until the rotor was solid and spun freely. After a couple of trips I heard a bumping noise, took the wheels off and sure enough the rotors were wobbly. Torqued them down then, lesson learned for future brake jobs. Another instance I used the FSM for specs.

From 6am until about 8am for me, then it's back to the house. Very little traffic on the weekends at that time of day and I don't have to use my lights. A Bloody Mary for breakfast helps.

Hopefully it's loose pads, cheap loose pads. That spring like thing that goes under the pins could've come loose?

If you keep the solid black wheels, I'd keep the black bumpers too. I like the chrome from futofab.com on mine but I've got polished lipped Konig Rewinds that go good with them. Tough choice, but you've made some damn good decisions so far.

You want to trade houses for awhile? I'll pay the airfares! It's 100 outside and I've got to mow my lawn today, rain is on the way thank goodness.

I copy the posts and paste them into an email to myself when I want to keep info I've read. There's probably a better way I'm sure but that works and is quick.

Well the parts were for shipping only and the rear bumper would have to come off to get the hooks off. It'd be like buying a new car with the protective film still stuck to the hood, roof and trunk.

So you kept the hold down hooks on your's too? I have removed mine after I read their original purpose was for shipping, not towing. But since learning that I see a lot of restored cars still have them. Originality I suppose, but I read the dealerships just didn't take them off. I guess that's why the dealer prep fee was only $75.

Has it ever ran for any amount of time? just short runs then it sputters out? Mine was doing that when I first bought it. It was a crudded up fuel tank. It'd run long enough to clog the filters then leave me stranded somewhere in the neighborhood. To confirm this you can run the fuel lines into a small gas can and bypass the tank. I strapped one in front of the radiator, 2.5 gallon jug, and drove very slowly around the neighborhood for about an hour without any problems. I would put in a ZX distributor with electronic ignition and get rid of those points. It's easy to do and cost me about $150. $100 for a remanned distributor and $50 for the ZX coil, ZX cap and plugs from amazon.com. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

I went to check in with my machinist today. He has the block done and is waiting on moly plasma rings from Hastings. He wants the expansion core plugs for the front and rear of the block, I'll put the sides in after painting it. Promised to have the block ready before the July 4th holidays. I'm going to put one of the E88 heads on there for now. I might get the E31 and cam kit back from him and send it to someone else, I have the feeling he doesn't want to mess with setting it up. I've learned a valuable lesson from this, I should never say "Take your time, I'm in no rush". I told him that in February thinking I'd have it by April or at least May, WRONG! Nice guy though so pitching a fit wouldn't speed him up any, probably wizz him off and make things even slower. He's the only guy in town. Sorry to post my work in your thread but it was quicker to find.

Did you have to thin that chassis paint much? Seems pretty thin already and from I read on their website they recommend 5% acetone. I usually do 30% to 50% on most other paints. I use a gravity HVLP gun to spray a bunch of light coats, maybe that's why I have to thin it down so much? Thanks for any tips.

I used my shop vac hose with the flat attachment for crevices slid under the garage door this past winter when I rebuilt my carbs.

$20 car cover to keep the dust off. Will it run? You say you're going to roll it in the garage? If not I'd pull the valve cover and soak the valve train with oil as well as the cylinders through the plugs like you said. Spin the motor somehow.

They look like small section of a drinking straw. You put them over the valve stem so the the seals won't tear on the collets slots when you're sliding them on.

Putting the whole box of bushings on your car would be thousand dollar job to me. It's a lot of work. Some I couldn't get to until I pulled the motor. The rear control arm bushings are still left over in the box. But you're an honest lady so I'd charge you less. Smiley face emoticon. Read the tech tips under SUSPENSION. You'll see the hyper flex install. In red like yours.

Yes sir! I'm going with one on my 280 when I finally get it repainted, light years from now though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1975-1978-Datsun-280Z-Lower-Body-Side-Stripe-Kit-S30-Fairlady-Z-/150768731524?hash=item231a844584&vxp=mtr 240s broke the line.

The word "thump" is what got that reply. They're notorious for that noise when shifting gears when the differential mount is worn.

Here's something about a resistor for the tach I found on atlanticz's Tech Tips. It's not saying if it's by the ECU or the TIU though, but Fastwoman's right as usual. This is the original wiring on my 77 280z (Credits to Wayne Lewis!!!) Notes: Red and Green carry trigger signal to ignition unit. (These will not be used) Blue wire to -neg post on ballast block will now go directly to -neg post on coil. (the small blue jumper wire can be discarded). This wire carries the ignition pulse to the ECU's pin 1 and it also goes to the tach after passing through a resistor (see pics above for ECU and resistor). The ECU triggers the injectors from this pulse.

Hey Redwing. When I first got another 280 after 20 something years of driving other more expensive little cars with round headlights I read everything I could find. I knew more about the "cars" than I did the one in my garage. I'm gonna guess this is the helpful tips you found, http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html He has a '77 280, lucky for me, and likes to take pictures, lucky for us all. You should bookmark that link, I use it just about everyday. It has a EFI & FUEL sub topic. My 240Z had a black wire that was loose at the distributor. When I hooked it up my tach came back to life. It runs to the coil also. Can't say for sure if was black with a white stripe or solid black, sorry, but that's probably your problem. Look around the coil and the ballast resistor, driver's side fender.

Are those the ones from MSA? I found these on e-bay that I'll probably use when I get new paint. They're more expensive but look closer to the originals, IMO. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1970-1973-Datsun-240Z-Lower-Body-Side-Stripe-Kit-S30-Fairlady-Z-/150768731520?hash=item231a844580&vxp=mtr