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Is it a mechanical pump or electric? If it's mechanical you won't feel much air just turning the motor with the starter. Those little hoses have to be just right or they'll kink and you'll have no flow between the float chamber and the carb. My red 240 had some rock hard 1/4"? fuel line on those carbs that wouldn't let the nozzles move down. Hard to start. I did what Beerman says, put a 2 gallon plastic gas jug in front of the radiator and ran the 2 lines into that and the car ran fine. Then dropped the gas tank and cleaned all the crap out. When I bought mine the valves were so far out of adjustment it took forever to start. Set them and then it would start as soon as I turned the key.

Off my car, foam oven cleaner worked good, cheap walmart stuff is what I used. A 12 gauge barrel cleaner helped get inside then I used a pressure washer. Cleaned up very well.

I like the white ones best. Like old timer nurses wore. And they really do help my varicose veins. When I don't have the money for a new set, I put the old ones over my head and hold up the ho's store.

Sounds good! It's really pumping out some air. What did you end up with for the compression ratio?

I can add my experiences with those and some information on replacements. A #4 penny finish nail with the sharp end cut off works perfect for pushing the pins through. Nissan still sales them for about $1 each, pack of 10 is $10 bucks. They have the small ones too but those may be just on the rear finisher of the 240s. Steve J found some on e-bay for the inner fender of a Ford. I think 50 were only $15? Anyway here they are, if you can't make out the part numbers let me know. Oh yeah, they have black and white at Nissan parts department. Oh yeah again!, I thought Pops Z used panty hose (sorry if I'm wrong) so I went to the Dollar Store and bought some cheap "panty hose knee socks" or whatever they're called.

Could it be a weep hole like a water pump has? I've never even seen one before but just was wondering if they could form some level of condensation inside.

1970 through 1972 240s used the smaller ones. 280s use the big one. A lot of 240 guys put the bigger one on the older 240s, better stopping. I had a hard time replacing the small one. A trick I figured out was to take the master cylinders loose, leaving the brake lines hooked up, tie them in place with string to keep them from falling down and bending the brake lines. I laid a paint stir stick across the opened inspection lid, making a triangle and tied the string to that. The hardest part was the four bolts behind the clutch and brake pedal. Maybe easier on a 280, hadn't had to do that yet. Have fun!

I think you are talking about the metal "bracket" (used for lack of the correct word) that has to be bent down around the fuel inlet on top. You can take the screws out like Mark says and that bracket will be loose, lay it off to the side and gently pry the lids off, probably still tearing the one use gaskets. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about, it's called a brace. The big bolt with the internal fuel filter goes through it. Bottom right corner of this picture is the thing that has to be bent to loosen the banjo bolt. Probably confusing you more as I'm no good at explaining, sorry. Get the DVD "Just SUs" from Z Therapy, it's a must if you've got SU carburetors that you want to work on.

Front carb. #19 is what I'm talking about. Tighten it all the way up, then go counter clockwise 2.5 turns for a general setting. There's TONs of stuff on here about these carburetor. I think it may have it's own sub-forum? It does, http://www.classiczcars.com/forum/71-carburetor-central/ Whoops, I see your in the forum now.

The nozzles maybe too high. Turn the adjustment knob counter clockwise 2.5 turns from the top. They could be stuck, do the nozzles move down when you pull the choke? They're under the carbs. The hose from the bottom of the float chamber connects to the nozzles on the bottom of the carb bodies. Sorry I can't show you pics now, on my dumb phone.

Post #5 in this thread and a lot more if you search around the forum. My 240 came with one and it looks great. I've got one for my 280 under a bed, too lazy to mess with it.

Quick property tax search shows only one RAWLS family in that area. Owner Name Rawls Ira Patrick & Elizabeth O Owner Address 907 N Twyckenham Dr South Bend IN 46617-1631

Same here, I like the new sound better. My neighbors like it even more.

I'm going to get these soon. 15" wheels minimum size. https://www.zcardepot.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_15&product_id=1111

That looks great, good job.

Well I learned something new today, thanks Zed Head. Oregon and New Jersey won't let you pump your own gas, for your safety, but you can buy a gun and go shoot up a school full of innocent people.

You may just be on the exhaust stroke. Are the first two cam lobes "noses" at 10 and 2?

Price and availability of parts is what keeps them in my garage. My Nissan dealership surprises me all the time with parts for my '72 they still keep at their distribution centers. A lot of guys are making a living buying straight from Nissan then reselling for double the cost, using words like NLA, NIB and NOS to make you think they have the ONLY ones left. Thank you google.com!

Looks good to my eyes, he even chamfered the intake bolt holes. I wonder what the Sharpie marks are for? And I think "do not turn over" is for handling purposes, it would fall off the crate it's sitting on. I think you hit a gold mine with that motor.

It's Daikin/Exedy. $100 @ amazon.com complete kit.

Setting up my timing components I would think #2 hole would be the middle, not retarded or advanced. What says the crowd?

Surely to god they ported the cylinder with that cam. That'd be like sucking Jello Pudding through a coffee straw.

I think that's Blue in the middle.

I've read the N36s use a thinner spacer. If you can't find the 260 spacers you can change to longer studs. FWIW Cliff