siteunseen

If it ran so so with full choke on new carbs then I think I would check float chamber levels and fuel delivery. Close off the return and see how it runs. That should build more fuel.

I used a silver Sharpie on my radio face plate and it turned out great.

Good read here... And some more... .

You can kind of guess by looking at original heads ID stamp. The uncut ones will have about a 1/16" space between the lettering and the head's bottom deck. If it's been cut the lettering is right at the bottom.

What does this go to? And I would unhook the throttle cables while trying to figure it out.

FWIW I run Hankook 205/55-15 that looks really good in my opinion. They're all around tire that wasn't too expensive. Seems like Venturis or something? I'll look back at my account tomorrow and can say what they are for sure.

This was my "ah ha" read that helped me wrap my head around twin SUs one day. The fuel level in the float chambers is most definitely #1, then getting the front 3 cylinders to run off the front carb "equally shitty" as the back 3 was #2. It'll run on 3 but barely. Don't forget about the vacuum advance nipple on the front carb. It needs to be hooked up to the dizzy or capped off if you're getting pull from somewhere else. Thanks again to @240260280... You doing good I know. Probably playing with grandkids? Anyway we miss you but life is more important than these old cars.

Agree with Captain on the 2 end plugs. They are really close to the cylinders. I tried drilling a small hole in one to put a screw in and hopefully remove it and this happened.

My Camry had a sticky pedal when I bought it. Turned out to be the nasty blade in the throttle body. Cleaned the thoat with lacquer thinner and a toothbrush. Works great to this day.

The last Z I sold I took a ton of pictures and listed all the bad then the good. Put it on craigslist and marketplace with minimal info. When someone asked about I sent the detailed email with all the photos. Sent the same email to everyone. Don't get to be buddies with anybody and use craiglists email function, no phone numbers. It takes a couple of weeks but you'll sale it. Details, details details. Honesty to cover your arse. Goodluck.

Here's the high idle test screw. On my car it doesn't touch anything during normal operation. It's just for adjustment.

After a rebuild I installed the carbs linkage wrong and the idle shot up to around 2500rpm. These are '72 round top carbs FYI. These "flats" or "stops" were stacked wrong. This is the correct position. Good luck with your 260. Glad you're here, more the merrier.

Oh yeah, I have a 6to1 header with 2.5" exhaust. Could be why I never hear mine.

I found a thread with EScanlon and Fastwoman's input. Electrical came natural to them it seems so here something to read until SteveJ replies.

I would send a text, probably get a quicker response.

Mine isn't noisy but they are known to get that way or so I've read. Here's a good read that might be helpful. Some tips on quietening one down. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html

What do think about hand drilling that small hole to a 5/16" opening like my old one? Is there a purpose or just shoddy quality? Thanks Steve.

No parts store around here has Fram G2 filters at the moment. I found some off brand knockoffs at them but no Frams. I bought from o'Reilly's "Micro" something or another. The OE fuel filter looks good and was only $5 but the G2 that I use coming out of the fuel tank was a off, the 5/16" barb went down to an 1/8" hole on the out side. The in barb is 5/16". My thinking is to gently open the small hole by slowly turning a drill bit while blowing through to keep the shavings out of the filter. No big deal but was curious if anyone else ran into to this. That "supply chain" excuse is worn out and this is just poor adherence to specifications in my opinion. Just a rant from me, as usual, but how long are we going to accept this crap and blame it on covid. Redundant I know but damn it, the bar has been lowered and I'm worried it's never gonna be the same. Happy 4th of July China. Stick to cheap fireworks for me. Old G2... New small output hole...

Agree with Pop's Z. You'll want to get them all while you're doing it as the others are sure to fail also. I bought all my low pressure fuel hose at o'Reilly's auto parts. Don't use heater hose. For the 180 degree bend you can use 2 PEX 90s and some clamps. Me and some others have done it without any issues. You'll have to remove the back panel of the hatch that covers the backside of the brake lights. You might can reuse the plastic rivets that hold it on but if not they're still available from Nissan or Z specific vendors like zcardepot.com. Here's some good threads to read through before you tackle the job. Good luck. Plenty of help here when you need it. https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+evap+hoses+classiczcars.com&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&ei=9SS-Yq7VFpOxqtsP-YGkiAs&oq=240z+evap+hoses+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAM6BAgeEApKBAhBGAFQlxRY3Upg4lNoAHAAeACAAYYDiAHjEJIBCDAuMTAuMS4xmAEAoAEBwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

From my experience, best bang for the bucks, get the cylinder head as good as you can afford plus an aluminum flywheel. Quick rev high rpms. But if the cylinder walls are damaged more than a good hone will smoothe out I understand the over bore. I have a 83mm 2.4 with big valves and an aluminum flywheel that I drive everytime. My 2.8 86mm hasn't seen the sun in years, it's the garage queen #2 on constant trickle charge. May put some fresh fuel in it this holiday weekend?

Mine was a little rough after light cut from machinest. Felt like brake rotors after cutting.

A lot of good info in this thread... More...

Hoover's...

I've always had good results on aluminum and most other metal with lacquer thinner. 6 Z pistons fit perfect in the bottom of a five gallon bucket. Cover with the thinner and put a lid on, it evaporates pretty quick and stinks too, after a few days I blow them off with my air compressor. They look like new. A few years ago it was $9.99 a gallon at Lowe's, now it's $25.