siteunseen

I can't upload images for some reason. Core price for worn out SUs is $200 to Ztherapy. https://www.ztherapy.com/products/masterprices/master_price_list.htm

You have seen the atlanticz write up haven't you? I'm sure you have but I can't remember reading that. I've had two ZX dizzys with ball bearings stuck to the magnetic part. I would make sure those were in place and their plastic holder looked good. I have know idea how many there's supposed to be. For some reason I think I've read 8 in each half?

They look like the inner fenders under those scoop looking things I removed to put on my front air dam. In front of the tire I believe?

The carbs are worth $350. https://orlando.craigslist.org/pts/d/orlando-datsun-240z-l24-engine5spd-trans/7083471590.html

Don't let me down!

That's his "signature" Mr Purcell. I assume it's his car? but nothing to do with yours I'm guessing. I had to look at his profile myself, I was also confused.

@Zaspen

We're gonna need to see some pictures of that beauty. It sounds nice and well taken care of. Cliff

A hair dryer or heat gun on lowest setting would work and much easier than a heat lamp in my opinion. I have not done this though and respectfully will be keeping up as mine will eventually need new ones too.

This one has the most photos. I used it for my '72 so I'd think you will see something. The good pics are towards the end of the thread. Good luck.

Me too! Love the sound. Bada boom.

Zed Head you type faster than Wanda Wiggins. I bought a ZX E12-80 distributor from amazon.com for $100. I had to buy a cap and button. It looked like a brand new one and has performed flawlessly since 2015. I am very happy with it. I remember reading a couple of years ago that someone bought one from amazon too and had problems with it. Turned out to be the ignition module was bad. If you have yours rebuilt you should make sure the rebuilder can get a new module. I'm pretty sure they're NLA now so there's that to consider. I put "1979 280ZX" in the search criteria and the body was stamped with the corresponding numbers for a '79 which is the best one according to the Excel spreadsheet Walter Moore made for the different distributors. Distributor advance curves S30-S130.xls

I sure hope VP Pence gets this Corona virus under control before ZCON.

According to this your '75 is different than my '77. Yours should have a screwdriver adjustment not a nut like mine. @Captain Obvious has a good post about 60% down the first page. Let me try the new way to get there...

No pintle cap. I didn't modify them at all, just slid them in. I think they had a wider spray than the OEs did but that's been many beers ago when I researched and decided to buy them. I'm not sure they still sale the 707"T"s. Never knew what that T stood for either.

Mine didn't look like the OEs. They did come with both the larger and smaller rubber insulators.

My first Z was a '76 and I really liked that car. It was quick and looked even quicker. Glad you found and bought your dream car. You'll find a lot of help here. We'll need pictures ASAP!

If I remember right a set of the Standard FJ707T was as cheap as having mine sent off and cleaned. That was a pain in the rectum trying to get info on injectors in 2011 when I built the 2.8 motor. You'll see Bigfoot before you get straight, consistent data. Those FJ3s on ebay were a popular choice back then. Fastwoman had them and liked them too. She was quite picky, OCD-ish, I miss her participation on here.

I rerouted my early '77 to the better pcv route. Here's the thread. Thanks again Captain.

Is that high temp Play-Doh?

If you decide to clean the throttle body take your time with that accordion boot from the AFM to the throttle body. It'll split if you look at wrong. I wouldn't even try to get it off without first unsecuring the afm from its base. Once you have access to the opening an old toothbrush or 2 and some lacquer thinner will clean it up like new.

My BCDD had a high idle when I first got the car running decent. I was able to adjust it now it's fine. If yours drops when you pull the pedal up that has me thinking your throttle blade is gummed up and sticking. If it stays high without fooling with the pedal I'd clean the throttle body but if it drops down after a few seconds you need to try and adjust the BCDD. It's very easy to do just by driving around your neighborhood and turning the nut on bottom. It'll get better one way and worse the other way.

Sounds like a bad distributor but that's just too easy to say. Here's my "go to" on everything 280. This is a ZX dizzy but they're pretty much the same except for the matchbox ignition module. You could read over it and maybe something will light that bulb in your head. I know I've found loose ball bearings in mine when I first bought it. It may be as simple as the reluctor being out of spec? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html Thank you Phillip for putting this together! It's been a big help to a lot of us. @240260280