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I'll pay anything, what the hell is it? Some kind of jack?

Make sure your float bowl lids have good gaskets and are tightened down good

Here's some past cover leaks threads. You might read over them and learn something helpful. I know you need to diagram and label the bolts on the water pump and the cover. It's a big mis match of depths and sizes. I recommend using the original fasteners. These after market kits aren't machined as well. And aluminum to steel which is the cover calls for special applications such as lock washer then flat washer under the bolts. https://www.google.com/search?q=front+cover+leaking+classiczcars.com+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&sca_esv=d0b2727f85f62fcc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=QHHXZta6FYOyptQPzf7ViAo&oq=front+cover+leaking+classiczcars.com+&gs_lp=EhFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocCIlZnJvbnQgY292ZXIgbGVha2luZyBjbGFzc2ljemNhcnMuY29tIDIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKsCMgUQIRirAjIFECEYqwJIkmlQL1i7XHAAeACQAQCYAZkRoAHhSqoBETAuNi42LjQuNi0xLjEuMS4xuAEDyAEA-AEBmAIUoAK5UcICDhAuGIAEGLEDGNEDGMcBwgILEAAYgAQYsQMYgwHCAgUQABiABMICDhAuGIAEGMcBGI4FGK8BwgIREC4YgAQYsQMYgwEYxwEYrwHCAggQABiABBixA8ICCxAuGIAEGLEDGIMBwgIFEC4YgATCAgYQABgWGB7CAggQABgWGB4YD8ICCxAAGIAEGIYDGIoFwgIFECEYnwWYAwCSBxAwLjIuMTAuNC42LTEuMi4xoAfMdQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp

I know nothing about pertronix but is it possible the coil wire to the dizzy cap is seated good and tight

Fuel fire and air You have the fuel checked off, it's good. You have the air filter housing off so no restrictions there. You should focus on the fire or electrical now that all 6 are black and sooty. It could be a loose wire since all of the sudden the spark plugs went black. Did it not start running bad all at once? It should have after looking at the before plugs and the newest pictures. Have a good weekend.

There's all kinds of testing you can do, you've missed some and some have missed you but you have gone ahead and shot the parts cannon at it for no reason. There's ways to test the spark at the plug and check resistance at the coil. "We" would like nothing other than your problems resolved and ending this, FYI. It may be as simple as the distributor cap and worn rotor button?

Will Pertronix ignition make the tach twitchy when it's going bad?

I remember Alex having problems with the chokes light staying on and showing him the switch under the console. I wonder, is all that good and tight? Did you ever install the choke handle mount that screws down on the tunnel?

I'll look at both cars tomorrow and take a photo of the condenser if I have one. I switched my 240 and 280 to the ZX distributor and I'm thinking I did away with it? For some reason I think I had to get it gone so my tachometer would work with the ZX dizzy setup. @SteveJ would know what it does and if you need it. He's going to be hard to get though as he just bought one of the new Zs. He bruising bugs I'm sure. 400 hp he's most likely killing them.

The coolant temp sensor wires aren't crossed up are they? The TPS could be out of adjustment too. When I deleted my EGR I remember there was a vacuum line on the bottom of the BCDD that had to connect with the hose coming off the thermal vacuum switch above the warming plate. It was a few odd things I had to figure out before mine ran normal. You mention the 2K rpm. That very easily could be the TPS not coming off idle contact side. I can't post any pics until Saturday sometime. Sorry You can find some good stuff googling "blue's tech tips" look under sub category "efi and fuel"

My apologies for hijacking a post but, Zed Head I finally bought a new laptop! Worlds of difference. Yarb said I was only 10 years behind.

The '78 has one inlet for fuel but up until then they had 2. If you could plug off one side of your old one instead of buying a new FPR????

I tried an adjustable FPR on mine when I went to a solid fuel rail and no EGR, never ran right. I put a '78 stock FPR on mine just like you, right before the return, and it runs fine. It's not as cool looking but it runs good.

Driving around with no hood is "hooning"? I should read deeper into the thread but that's a beautiful picture.

I'm glad I have the garage space for my two without putting my mother out.

Hey Racer X. Good to hear from you. You been laying low but that's cool. You have a lot of weed eating to do.

Not as nice as red head friday but nice. Bring back the bosoms, please!

The fsm says pulling the e-brake up a few times is the adjustment after changing shoes. Mine went from almost straight up to about half way. Kinda like ED as I got older.

I've had good luck with: Valve seal replacement classiczcars.com 6 of 1, half dozen of the other.

Seems like people had to cut the tunnel AND the console on the early 240 5 speed swap-in? Or do the modified shifter. https://www.google.com/search?q=hitting+console+5+speed+swap+classiczcars.com&oq=hitting+console+5+speed+swap+classiczcars.com&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigATIHCAMQIRigAdIBCTUxMDIyajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

@Av8ferg you sure can relate to this. 😁

Sounds like it's running out of fuel in the float chambers? Try sticking a little hose down the over flow bung on the lids. The little small red ones off WD-40 work good at pushing down the floats. They should push down and bounce right back up if there's fuel after you run it.

I've been driving mine in daytime only after reading over and over of Mr Irwin's upgrade. I don't use the headlights or wiper blades until my lazy self installs his updates. Hasn't been an issue so far as I only get to drive it on occasion but still those, hopefully still available, are a must on my 240.