siteunseen

Seems like the revious owner was thinking the opposite of me. No fluid=no leaks. I'm about to put a shut off valve before the heater core on my 240. They could be completely different though, 280s & the 240S?

Good thread to read.

Always interested in easy money in the bank but I bet that makes a big old mess. Thinking of bench polishing wheels and the splatter.

I'm most likely totally off base here but #1,2 and 3 runoff the front carb. May be a fuel problem. I would pull those plugs one at a time a check their spark. Good luck.

"Where did the cash come from? Turns out, the Whittingtons also owned a for-hire plane company. They also bought Road Atlanta—which had the longest straight in the United States at the time. Supposedly, those planes would land on the race track with shipments of pot, which was hidden on-site in trailers at the track. The brothers were running drugs." Road Atlanta was used as an airport!

Me too! I think it's because the British cars back then had that and it looked darn good?

I think it would be a good gesture, to all who help, to take out all six plugs and post a picture Jalex.

The battery leak got my fuel lines in it's previous life so I cut them before the pitted crap. I think it's 1/4" low pressure fuel line I replaced the rotten steel with. Of course you won't win any ribbons but it works great for mine that I drive.

All three of my garage doors have been "marked" by a Z.

What are you guys doing for the sticker on the OE? I slowly scraped mine off then Gorilla Glue'd it to the new one. Holding up good so far.

people forget about those filters and they get nasty over 40 plus years. ? It's the one that goes over the bolt, "internal gas filter" below. I took mine out when I rebuilt the carbs. I installed one of those glass filters right before the mechanical pump. It stays nice and full now that I have the floats adjusted correctly.

I like those on these cars. They very similar to the '70s Porsche 15" "Cookie Cutters".

Here's one at amazon that looks like the zcardepot conversion kit. They're a little more expensive than I was thinking? https://www.amazon.com/ARC-50-8691-Brake-Caliper-Remanufactured/dp/B002UZ7RV8/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002UZ7RV8&pd_rd_r=b28f09c0-8462-11e8-9cc3-e978e9b0c892&pd_rd_w=cS7Ka&pd_rd_wg=LWD2p&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=5825442648805390339&pf_rd_r=5Q4B40B6GZHW1PYQS031&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=5Q4B40B6GZHW1PYQS031&dpID=41jd-REEp-L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail https://zcardepot.com/disc-brake-conversion-rear-disk-240z-260z-280z.html

Zcardepot.com may sale the single caliper? They sale the rear conversion kits. Good luck. Oh yeah, try amazon.com too.

I'll get it just for the N42 intake, that's what I'm wanting anyway. Might be a few weeks though. It's hot out there.

Mine is what MSA calls a stage 3 like Moelk's. It's Schneiders 270/80F grind. Sounds like I'll be using the E31 as I've planned all along. I'm not looking forward to grinding those .190" lash pads down to size, I think will be .175 or .180. Thanks guys!

Mine has the ceramic coated header from MSA. Greatly reduced the under hood temps. I just found a point and shoot thermometer at work and am anxious to get some readings now that we are in the dog days of summer now. Might try to do that tomorrow and post the results?

I am thinking of Moelk, we have the same cam kit. Sorry.

I've read people use bike cables. I'd think you could buy that and remove the cable and just use the hard plastic tube?

Did you use the same cam as before? I think it's you that has the same cam as I have. Mine is still in the box though. Planning on an E31 but have access to another N42. Anticipating your experiences. Cliff

Chris is the one that got the mismatched set. I only bought one and it was the newer looking aluminium with a yellow plug and a black bleeder cap like in his post above

I got the aluminium one a week ago. Bolted right up, no problems so far. Sucks you have to send one back to the border. Break the fluid line loose before you remove those two small bolts. Learned that the only way I know, backwards.

My '77 has a R200 originally, build date of 9/'76. Here's a good write up with some information you might find useful. Good luck, your to do list looks good to me. http://www.geocities.ws/MotorCity/Garage/6212/diffswap/diffswap.htm

Mine has one broken off I know, probably both by now.