siteunseen

I like my ceramic pads, no squeal or dust and it seems like they are Carbotech too.

You can not clean gas fouled plugs. @jalexquijano

I'm sure youve tried this already, try sticking a needle down in the holes. I don't have a zx but have down that many times on other cars. They get clogged and you can realign the spray on most.

Thank you! Appreciate your time looking and giving an alternate work around. Cliff You see this Jim? @S30Driver maybe we can get some cold air in our '77s? There's a couple at that junkyard. Send me a pm about what you think.

I understand now after I thought for 2 seconds. The header splits 3 & 3. Sorry.

Pardon my ignorance but I'm trying to learn something here. A straight 6 motor will perform better with dual pipes like a V block? Or is it a preference of sound? Again, I'm trying to understand so no need to give me negative responses. Don't waste your time typing. Thank you. Cliff

It looks like the one that goes around the front of the cylinder head. I deleted all that stuff in 2011, sorry for my mistake. Do you think it's vacuum or coolant? Being metal I'd think coolant but the rubber hose doesn't have a clamp so it could be vacuum???

Nothing goes onto this white nipple. And that's the hardline at the top of your circle.

That hardline should hook into this thing.

Yes, there. the vacuum advance, then the canister.

yeah, I can in a little while. And now I know where that hardline is from. That's the coolant line that goes around the front of the head to the water pump. I had one that was attached to the heating plate. It started at the thermostat housing, then heating plate, then around the head to the bottom radiator hose connector. That's it in your circle.

That's the aluminum clutch guy, Tilton Engineering. RIP

That T in the first picture looks like my '77 280's vacuum advance that goes to the canisters yellow dot, the advance module and the nipple at the front of the throttle blade. The second picture looks like a line on my 240's vacuum block under the coil. I can get pictures later today when I'm home from work. I'm wondering what model, like Steve says above.

I used the fel pro rear main and side seals on the first motor which was a 2.8, they don't leak but those side seals are crap compared to Nissan's in my opinion. I used Nissan on the 2nd 2.4 motor. side seals, 12289-W0400 $1.50 each from my parts guy rear crank seal, 12279-2B500 $30 from my guy I've got more Nissan numbers if you need them. I went with Nissan on all the big stuff, rear main, oil pan, manifold. But the Fel Pro kit for all the other small stuff because it's so cheap. A lot of the parts come with their own gaskets, oil pump, water pump, timing kit. I can't remember which head gasket I used. I do remember it was different for the 240 compared to my 280. Oh yeah, turbo head bolts. 9 short ones 11056-P7600 $4 each 5 long ones, 11059-P7600 $5 each. $60 plus tax for all of them. I can not remember if they came with washers or not, sorry.

Seems like it's common for the speedo connection to leak after swapping the transmissions. Mine did and after reading around on here a lot of others had the same problem. The seal gets worn in then after you change the position for the new 5 speed it begins to leak. Here's the part number for the oil seal. Mine wouldn't stay in 5th or reverse with the S shaped shift rod that I kept from the 240's 4 speed. Ended up grinding some off the snout and now all is good.

I have that one Phillip linked above. It does more than I can even figure out how to use, initial timing, full advance and the RPM functions are all I've needed so far. I bought the red one from amazon.com on that internet holiday sale, Cyber Monday? it was about $100. You might ask local chain parts stores if their loaners have the RPM function and save some money. Here it is, still $100. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVU8J8/ref=sxr_zg_dy_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3525596382&pd_rd_wg=0Swi0&pf_rd_r=SW120JF40SSVWMTZN8GZ&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B000EVYH72&pd_rd_w=eEJpa&pf_rd_i=innova%2Btiming%2Blight&pd_rd_r=8d4828d6-c1ff-41d9-a5d3-90c5452b20df&ie=UTF8&qid=1523201371&sr=1&th=1

Cool! I see room for another one? Man, side by side 240 hands down.

Stranglehold, baby! The lead up on that gives me chill bumps. 8^)

I remember having to pad my turntable to keep the hum and skip caused by too much bass and too much volume. Our neighbors hated me, old farts.

This is a life saver for me. I knew zero on SUs and with the help of this forum and the quick and dirty method mine "tuned up" nicely. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/39221-quick-and-dirty-su-tuning/

After couple more beers I think I got that bassackwards!??? I got mine set with clear glass "float chamber" on my bar top so they are dead on. I can't speak on getting close and how that works out with the nozzles. I was thinking you fine tune with the knobs and get the floats as close as possible, that whole clear tubing method is not super precise but very close so my remark on not "too critical". Carry on men, keep marching, onward through the fog, and a broken clock is right twice day.

I too would go with having them turned but you may find the cost of turning them very close to buying new ones. If you have Advance auto out there check their price then go to retailmenot.com and get a 30% coupon code. Its been 8 years ago but just basic rotors were $20 each after the discount. And if I remember right that was what charged per rotor for a cut. I bought drilled and slotted from amazon but like Zed said it was for looks. You can see mine through the wheels I have. Painted remanufactured calipers red, it all looks good. The ceramic pads I used got rid of the horrible squeal all Zs I've owned have. I'll find my thread on that when u get my laptop out in the morning. Some good info on replacing the races, how to get the old ones out and seat the new ones DIY style. Torque value too.

I was thinking your fuel levels were all good a week ago? The next issue is getting the carbs running the same individually. You need to find a timing light that shows rpm then start adjusting them separately or as Phillip says "equally shitty".

I hope I'm not speaking out of turn, don't know what CO's thoughts were and I value those very highly, but in my opinion not too critical. He figured out the cold sputtering I hope. Choke cables must work their range up and down for the nozzles to work right as they affect choke.