siteunseen

I like those on these cars. They very similar to the '70s Porsche 15" "Cookie Cutters".

Here's one at amazon that looks like the zcardepot conversion kit. They're a little more expensive than I was thinking? https://www.amazon.com/ARC-50-8691-Brake-Caliper-Remanufactured/dp/B002UZ7RV8/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002UZ7RV8&pd_rd_r=b28f09c0-8462-11e8-9cc3-e978e9b0c892&pd_rd_w=cS7Ka&pd_rd_wg=LWD2p&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=5825442648805390339&pf_rd_r=5Q4B40B6GZHW1PYQS031&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=5Q4B40B6GZHW1PYQS031&dpID=41jd-REEp-L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail https://zcardepot.com/disc-brake-conversion-rear-disk-240z-260z-280z.html

Zcardepot.com may sale the single caliper? They sale the rear conversion kits. Good luck. Oh yeah, try amazon.com too.

I'll get it just for the N42 intake, that's what I'm wanting anyway. Might be a few weeks though. It's hot out there.

Mine is what MSA calls a stage 3 like Moelk's. It's Schneiders 270/80F grind. Sounds like I'll be using the E31 as I've planned all along. I'm not looking forward to grinding those .190" lash pads down to size, I think will be .175 or .180. Thanks guys!

Mine has the ceramic coated header from MSA. Greatly reduced the under hood temps. I just found a point and shoot thermometer at work and am anxious to get some readings now that we are in the dog days of summer now. Might try to do that tomorrow and post the results?

I am thinking of Moelk, we have the same cam kit. Sorry.

I've read people use bike cables. I'd think you could buy that and remove the cable and just use the hard plastic tube?

Did you use the same cam as before? I think it's you that has the same cam as I have. Mine is still in the box though. Planning on an E31 but have access to another N42. Anticipating your experiences. Cliff

Chris is the one that got the mismatched set. I only bought one and it was the newer looking aluminium with a yellow plug and a black bleeder cap like in his post above

I got the aluminium one a week ago. Bolted right up, no problems so far. Sucks you have to send one back to the border. Break the fluid line loose before you remove those two small bolts. Learned that the only way I know, backwards.

My '77 has a R200 originally, build date of 9/'76. Here's a good write up with some information you might find useful. Good luck, your to do list looks good to me. http://www.geocities.ws/MotorCity/Garage/6212/diffswap/diffswap.htm

Mine has one broken off I know, probably both by now.

It's a pile of crap, sun burnt from one end the the other. Luckily the hood was down and what's left of the motor, pretty much just the short block, is rebuildable. All the rubber and plastic is ruined and the sunroof is missing. Along with all the other glass. If I do this I'll get a better look but I don't think anything's there, sorry.

I've found a '76 with an N42 head and intake in an old junkyard. Says he's about to crush the car. I think I can offer him $100 and pull the head myself. It'll need rebuilding for sure. If you don't mind sharing what you gave for that one I'd appreciate it. Trying to figure out if its worth my time. I was thinking i could resale it for $500 maybe. Private message me if you'd rather. thank you. Cliff

I'm going to cut the hose into then put 2"? vale in. May look a little cawk eyed but who cares. Then if I don't like I it can couple that hose back together.

Thank You! I will most likely put it off the head hose as that is what feeds the core according to this flow diagram.

You probably already know this but that works wonders on old furniture, mine's not a wet blaster though.

Here's what I need your expertise on. I found the thread but need more specific answer like yes or no on my idea that putting a valve off the head is the same as closing the OEwater coc...

I still haven't done that but think it's a good idea. If you have one could you post a photo for us to go by? seems like you've already done it for me or maybe it was just the picture of the on/off valve. Thanks Captain.

Yes sir your right. When I washed my tank out and coated it with RedKote i was worried that stuff could come loose and clog up my system. I ran it for about 6 months with nary a bit of pinkish colored fuel. It's gone now. G-3 at the tank and OE filter under the hood is it. Thanks for mentioning that, I run one on my 240 so I bought a pack of filter screens and need to swap a newer one in. I read when they get a greenish color the screens need replacing. Cliff

I kept the AAR. EGR, BPT and the warming plate with the thermal switch were trashed. I plugged the coolant lines to the warming plate and the hose on bottom of the throttle body that went to the BPT. I'm pretty sure that's all I had to do. You might be able to see in this picture?

Liquor.