siteunseen

The efi on these are very basic and simple. There's tons of info here and people willing to help too. I refreshed my efi for about $500, new injectors and high pressure pump. Also cleaned the fuel tank and coated it with red-kote tank liner. Putting a cheapo fram g-3 filter between the the tank and the pump is an easy way to keep crud from going further into the system and also will let you see if there is any crud. Those filters are clear plastic. A member here has one that color I believe. Maybe he would post a pic. @S30Driver is a nice guy but he's busy as hell working all the time, aren't we all.

'79 ZX dizzy works great. If you can't find one at a junkyard zcarsource.com has the base mount you'll need. I bought my cardone from Amazon. Com then you'll need the bigger cap and rotor button. Also you run the ZX spark plugs wider gap. I bought the flame thrower after reading some bad reviews on the yellow coil, can't remember the name of it now though.

Woof, what a car! My '72 has the round emblems on that back pillar? Could be an earlier car but still not worth the money. Like Kenny sang, "you got to know when to fold".

New stock brake components will be fine. You'll have trouble getting the aluminum rear drums but the fronts are cheap. About as cheap to get new rotors as having the old ones turned. Replace the wheel bearings and races too. I bought some cheap stainless flex lines from the hardline to the calipers front and back for $50 I think off ebay. If it's like the ones I've bought you'll have a hell of a time getting the rear drums off. Take your time with a rubber hammer or a small sledge hammer. Good luck.

So our oil slinger did away with that? Interesting... Car's coming along nicely Charles.

@LeonV I deserve a big "I TOLD YOU SO!" so I'm getting in front of it. I'm hard headed but I do learn from my mistakes. So thank you!

I put mine on #3 right off the bat after rebuilding the motor. It has tons of low end but peters out around 6,000RPM. I too went with the local 'experts" advice but now I'm sick of it and will be going back to at least #2 but most likely #1. All I do is shift gears, constantly.

Gorilla Glue some pubic hair on there and I'd take it to the Red Lobster.

Thank you! I refer that site all the time. I was confused when all that garbage popped up, thought I was going to have to throw away my laptop.

That looks exactly like my 280. AC and heater panel, doors interior looks the same too. I see fusible link covers but also a fuel rail for carbs. Crazy but I'm glad you corrected me. I can go to bed now after learning something for today.

I know you're stressing trying to sale but what jumps out to me is you calling it a '75 260. 1974 was the only year the 260 was made. I sold mine on CL. Lot of nuts but also honest people looking for wa Z. Good luck with your selling attempt, it's a nice looking car. Are you flipping it or is it your's for awhile? My guess, $8,000.

I run 15" Rewinds and love them. They're not too big like the the 16"s I bought originally that now hold my 280 off the ground. They work great on the 280 but looked way out of perspective on the lowered 240. Looked like doughnuts on a Graham cracker. Zed Head, I know zero on gearing and numbers and $^!# like that. I'm sorry. 8^( The wide 5 from a '79ZX 2+2 works great with the R180. 80mph in 5th turns under 2,500rpm. About 2,200 on flat stretch. Jalex I'm trying not to be a jack arse but "California Datsun" is your problem I honestly believe. I hope you can be happy with your 240 someday. I'll try and help but I think we've "climaxed" with your set-up.

My 240 with the R180 will smoke my 280 with the R200. No contest at all. Now that I've put a 5speed in the 240 they're about the same on top too. You need to make a decision, classic car or fast car.

Someone was talking about this not too long ago. Quick google search found this... https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=sCZaW7qLMuXn_QbFtaf4CA&q=v-3+modification+classiczcars.com&oq=v-3+modification+classiczcars.com&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-hp.3...3825.29170..29319...2.0...545.10059.0j1j18j4j5j3......0....1.......3..0j41j46j46i131j0i131j0i7i30j0i7i10i30j46i10j0i10j0i30j0i10i30j0i5i10i30j0i5i30j0i8i30j0i8i10i30j0i13j0i13i30j0i13i5i30j0i8i13i30j33i21j33i160.i4Wi7oiKEXw

Sharp car! I like the white roof. You'll find plenty of friends here that can help or just talk about Zs. Welcome aboard. Cliff

Just read about your aluminum flywheel. That has to be the best "bang for the buck" for me. The carbureted cars scream like a motorbike, just as you say. ?

N47 was the first oiling cam as far as I know, N42 had spray bars. My 9/'76 N47 had both.

Add me to the Red-Line fan base. That stuff is like magic for the transmission and the differential. Best price I've found on was amazon.com

I tried to link datsunzgarage.com but it goes to some crazy crap. Don't know what happened but they had a lot of good information on a ZX motor mod for 240s. A member here, @Diseazd, has 5 of them I think. It's an F54 flat top piston block bored .030 over with a P79 head shaved .080 with the earlier 280Z valves and Isky cam kit. A real beast from all I've read from him. Here's something to play around with, http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

I would be more concerned with the low compression readings you posted. You say the car is running good, why not drive it and do as you said "please calm down"? https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/47304-1972-float-adjustment/?do=findComment&comment=553023

Agree! That's a good deal I think and let some air out my balloon on my '77's value. Guess I'll hang on to it a few more years...

Looks good! If you haven't yet, you should check the motor mounts to make sure they line up and fit right before the motor is hanging over your car. Mine didn't. I had to file half the line up peg to get mine to sit down nice and flat.

That is an odd sound on shut down. I wonder if it could be as simple as the noise heard through the carbs with no air filter installed? Sort of sounds like something is loose? Is the valve cover nice and snug?

Here's good picture Zkars or Jarvo put up showing a way to measure the fuel level 23mm down from the underside of the lid. It's the easiest way I found to get in the ballpark. Another thing I would suggest while you are getting the levels set is to stick the cork gaskets onto the lids with fuel proof black RTV. A thin layer on the lids then lay the gaskets down and then lightly screw them back down to the float chambers while the RTV sets up. You'll be able to remove them without damaging the cork gaskets. Makes getting them back on a heck of a lot easier too. ?

I remember the 918 and the 112 lime yellow from when I was a kid, uh back in the early 70s (still a kid), and I always wanted one. A few years ago I finally had one. The serial number starts with my birth year too. That orange color is a 240 to me and the 305 light blue is a 280 in my mind. There was more of those colors around here than any other.