Captain Obvious

I'm going to go a little more conservative on the description of how they work... The whole wheel cylinder is SUPPOSED to slide on the backing plate, and it is SUPPOSED to center itself from the force. Just like a floating caliper with one piston, these are floating cylinders with one piston. And from the lack of chatter here on the forum about rear brake problems, they seem to work well enough. However, my experience is that I always had one shoe wear faster than the other. I think the 77-78 dual piston fixed cylinder design is way better, and if you're ever replacing rear wheel bearings, I'd take the opportunity to upgrade to the newer design.

The "ER" is just a typo. It should be "SEATER", not " SEAT ER". Also, l think your assumption about the second one being for the auto trans is a good one.

So how many applications of paint remover did it take you to get down to clean metal? Just one with the plastic wrap? Or were there still multiple apply, wait, scrape cycles?

My guess is it's a normal USA 74 2+2 260 with a title mistake.

I've never seen a good dimensioned sketch of the washer ends. I'd be interested if you want to make one up! Are the two stock washers the same, or did they have different hole diameters in the middle to account for the bolt they ride on?

Here's a rough chart that can give you an idea of the relative hardness of rubber and poly: My thought on poly replacements is they are (obviously) better than nothing, but will never be as compliant (or quiet) as the original system. With the original system, the only points of contact are through the rubber bridge of the bushing, and the raised tips of the rubber on the flat washers. With poly, you usually have much more contact. At least that's the case with the current design poly bushings. Also, I'm not sure about the flexing abilities of poly. By that, I mean, I know what happens to rubber when it flexes and flexes and flexes a whole bunch of times... Pretty much nothing. But what happens to poly when you flex it a couple thousand times? I suspect it cracks a lot more readily than rubber of the same durometer. So the tipping point would be to make it as soft as possible without it being soft enough to bend enough in application to cause it to fatigue and crack.

I thought we just went through this? In this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/58037-mustache-bar-bushings/?do=findComment&comment=525900

Haha! Oh yeah. and the final step. Look for a store to stop to buy a new pair of underwear before I get home.

Have you ever had a complete failure of half the system while driving? I never have, but somehow I just doubt I would have the wherewithal to pump the brakes to shuttle the plunger to the end: Pedal goes to the floor. Brain goes "OH SHITE!!" and I freeze looking for an exit path. Foot planted hard on the floor. In fact, at that point, I'm probably trying to push the pedal THROUGH the floor. Brain never goes "Just pump the brakes a couple times to shuttle that plunger to the end of travel and you'll get some pressure back".

The first block (the one closest to the master cylinder) is the brake warning switch. It doesn't proportion, it just lights the warning light if there's a failure in one axle of the system. The second block (the one on the firewall) does the proportioning. It's a little weird looking, but since the warning switch is mounted close to the LF wheel, they pulled the line off there to go to that corner. The pressure there will be the same as the RF, but it was just easier to pull the plumbing connection off there instead of pulling another front connection off the proportioning valve and backtracking to the LF corner.

I agree (in that there is so little that's adjustable), that I did mine myself too. And I didn't even bother with string and jack stands. I had new tires and just measured the distance between treads at fore and aft of the front tires. Here's my thought process... I can easily adjust the toe to something close to correct, and then I can then fiddle with the toe settings same on both sides until I get the steering wheel straight. After that, the car should go straight and the steering wheel should be positioned correctly. If the car handles well (which mine does), and the tire wear is acceptable and even (which mine is), I'm claiming victory. What this method does NOT do is make you aware of any issues like what you had done with the bushings or issues with the rear wheels. Those issues would show themselves in handling issues (like your squirrely feeling), or badly worn uneven tires. And the problem with counting on tire wear to illustrate an issue is that by the time you know, it's too late. So, I got lucky... My car drives straight, handles well, and the tires are wearing slowly and evenly. I don't know (or need to know) what's going on with the more complicated facets of the alignment. I don't know if my camber or caster is the same between sides. I don't know if my rear toes are the same. Doesn't matter. Might matter if I was driving on the track at the limits of handling, but I'm not. Goes straight, handles well, tires wear even and at a reasonable rate. Done.

So they didn't pick up on that while on the alignment rack? You could probably adjust that out for toe, but everything else would be out of whack, right?

I figured it was flush. Just had to ask. So have you got any pics of the pickup installed?

I saw that too, and I think that might be a California thing. You can also see the "Floor Temp" warning lamp that only came on the CA cars.

Cool. Just wanted to quadruple check. Good luck with your efforts, and I hope they pay off soon. Have you considered M-80's?

Haha!! Exactly. I have two in a baggie here somewhere. Bought them about a year ago and haven't gotten around to finishing the job! 8491A202 Hardened drill bushing- .375+ id, .625+ od, .375 long You're a smart guy!

Did that happen at Hybrid as well? I remember that on Zcar... Very unpleasant.

Are you positively completely absolutely 100% without a doubt willing to stake your reputation on it convinced that you have all the retaining hardware removed? Just asking... I have to.

I've sectioned an original shift knob into a couple pieces, and after seeing the inside (the part that has never seen the sun), I believe the knobs are made out of the same material and color as the steering wheels. On the inside, they are much more tinted toward red than they are on the outside. Homogeneous throughout, and red. When I get a chance, I'll snap a pic or two.

Nice work. So where did you source the new door detent rollers? I would really like to do this too, but it's lower on the priority list. I've already identified something from McMaster that I think would work, but if you've got something genuine, then that might be even better. What'cha got?

Nice. I like the trigger wheel. I've given some thought to running coil on plug, but I don't currently have any way to sequence them properly. One question about that wheel... Are you sure it's sitting completely flush against the back of the damper assembly? It looks like the metal tabs may be overlapping the rubber joint. Can't tell from the pics if there's a raised bump or anything there that may be causing some interference.

Excellent. Glad it was that simple. Now put a relay on your starter.

Wow... Completely coincidental. I was doing the exact same thing yesterday!! With the exact same tools, and learning the exact same lessons! Making new lines for my buddy's 260:

The intermittent START signal is probably because you have eaten up the internal contacts with the current drawn by the starter solenoid. It'll happen again to your new replacement. You might not be around anymore, but it'll happen. I put a relay between the switch and the starter.

Haha! Thanks guys. Site, you should see my fingers in the winter! In the winter, they spontaneously crack! And I don't think I could ever be a teacher. I doubt I would have the patience for the people who really didn't want to be there.